Thanks for the replies. I have checked all the fuses, and the relays seem ok. The earthing from the battery seems fine - the only piece missing is that little one at the rear, nearside corrner of the bonnet which has been absent for ages.
The only thing I can see are exposed wires going into an engine sensor. It is the small blue one at the top, front, nearside corner of the block - with a black wire and light/dark wire connected to it. Could this have any bearing?
Connected question: How hot would you expected the coolant to get before you can hear it boiling in the system (wth engine just turned off)? Logically I guess it would be 100C (being basically water, etc.) but on my car it seems to be audible only when the indicated (oil) temperature is at around 110/112. I'm wondering if my dash gauge is overreading.