problems with starts, ICV?

[clipperjay]

Good call in a multi meter there oakgreen!
When you buy the multi meter you can check the voltage to the injectors to make sure the wires have not gone crusty due to manifold heat.

[tehas]

cheers guys, waiting for post to handle the shipment. will let you know about the electrical results

[tehas]

Hey guys,
some time has passed, but still, i found a solution, or at least how to go around my problem.
I have checked my cold start valve, whether it's working when i'm starting up, and appearently, it wasnt, so I made a bypass in the thermotime switch plug, and tested it again, it was still not working.
After that, i decided to test if my sprinkler was working in the cold start valve, so i connected it with a cable to plus, and another one to ground, and it was sprinkling gasoline. so i felt happy about it. After digging in and testing a little more around. I decided i can create a mechanical injection for cold start valve myself.
So my little experiment started with finding a plug and connecting it to ground (yellow circle) and switching from original plug (white circle) to my new plug:



After that, i lead the plug to the cabin, through some place where some vaccum hose was going:



As i got that cable to the cabin, i needed to get a plus signal from somewhere, so i got it from radio adapter:



And in the end, i tested it with the cold start valve (or 5th injector) out of the inlet manifold to see if it works (of course there was some homemade lamp tests before), and it did work. So whenever i cannot start the car (ussually when it's stone cold), i gotta spark those two cables (in the last picture blue and brown cables) to get some fuel sprayed to inlet manifold.

I am going to install a non-toggle switch soon.
Will be using this for a while to drive to work, until i find a proper solution why the default plug is not working.
I havent received my multi-meter yet, strange tho.
Any ideas? maybe thermoswitch sensor is faulty?

[clipperjay]

If I remember rightly the voltage comes through the WUR (warm up regulator)to the fifth injector?
So if you have a broken WUR its grey, with electrical plug attached, and on the left side of the chassis leg with rubber vacuum pipe attached to it. This can cause the reason why no fuel is going through because it depends upon the WUR to send the electrical signal to activate it. The WUR  senses the cold air and hence helps to switch on the fifth Injector on.
 
I would put back the wires you have butchered, clean up any earths to gear box and change out the WUR (warm up regulator) and take it from there!
All you have done is prove the fifth injector works?   

[tehas]

my WUR has 3 connections, one is electrical plug, and other two are fuel in and out. there is no vacuum hose going to/out WUR in my vehicle.
WUR itself, has a leg'ish pole looking thing coming out of WUR, but it has a ruber cover. Should it be connected to something or it is normal that this leg is blocked?

[clipperjay]

Okay the Warm up regulator is something you will need to swap out and yes its the one with fuel pipes going into body and senses temperature against the block, But the other thing you should check is
The grey Over run cut off valve this is the one that is linked to the the metering head the block and cold start valve elbow (just one electrical connector).
If it helps I will take some pictures, but the Hayes manual should show you this do you have one?
 

[tehas]

What could be wrong with warm up regulator, and is there any chance I could do it myself?
My wur looks like this:



And I believe over run cut off valve is this one:


bad quality image, but it's the one on the left with electrical plug in, right?
what should i check about this valve?

[clipperjay]

WUR: engine must be cold or bellow 30C
1) has meter arrived yet?
2) Take HT lead off dizzy the king lead will do and earth it to something 
3) Crank the engine, undo the connector plug on the WUR voltage should be 11.5V+ present
4) turn off the ignition switch and check Ohms reading on the connector resistance will be about 20-26 Ohms anything less its defective (replace)

Picture two is weird looks like a Idle speed valve, but only ever seen on aircon models? Is yours air-conditioned?
This is over run valve I was talking about!
To test it Get engine to temperature let engine idle afterwards manually make sure the full throttle switch is closed, if you manually open throttle to 2000rpm it should surge showing its working. If not surging then unplug connector bridge the contacts and see if surges if it does temperature sender is okay, but over run valve is finished. if does not surge on bridged connector the temperature sender needs replacing!

[tehas]

Over run cut off valve, mine looks as in the picture i post below, just really rusty, and the rubber hose going to cold start valve elbow is really thick, impossible to bend.
Is it not called auxiliary air valve?


Still waiting on my multi-meter.

You were correct with butchered cables. I had it connected to radio/cabin light/clock fuse, which broken yesterday. it was a 15A fuse, so I am lead to believe it's not a child's play to make my own mechanical/electrical injections.

[clipperjay]

Yes I think yours is an early K jet 16v what year and yes back then even wax stats were made from metal these days plastic due to less corrosion and heat soak plus cheaper manufacturing on plastic.
Yours must have had air conditioning or someone had taken parts from another 16v and used them in your car at some point I think? I would be best to find a fellow golf owner 16ver and swap out known working bits just for testing.
One thing before you started working on her was the spark plugs sooty and rich I'm asking as I'm not sure if you have fuel starvation on start up or over fueling during start up?