Author Topic: High Biting Point on Clutch  (Read 3473 times)

Offline gazareth

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Re: High Biting Point on Clutch
« Reply #10 on: 28 June 2013, 18:10 »
taking the strut of to change the clutch wtf! jeez I don't even take the wheels of. I just tie the drivers side shaft up to exhaust manifold and put steering on left hand lock and jack front up a little and passenger side shaft can just be manouvered out. you could use tipex to mark balljoint before undoing 3 bolts so tracking wont be affected. btw not sure what happened to my last post above. still trying to figure things out.

VW BUSH

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Re: High Biting Point on Clutch
« Reply #11 on: 28 June 2013, 19:20 »
taking the strut of to change the clutch wtf! jeez I don't even take the wheels of. I just tie the drivers side shaft up to exhaust manifold and put steering on left hand lock and jack front up a little and passenger side shaft can just be manouvered out. you could use tipex to mark balljoint before undoing 3 bolts so tracking wont be affected. btw not sure what happened to my last post above. still trying to figure things out.

I take the wheel off as I don't have ramp and have to use stands and jacks, I think your point about marking the joint is it in a nutshell.
If the joint is good then this works, if its sloppy then its fifty fifty but then you should change it anyway :smiley:

Offline gazareth

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Re: High Biting Point on Clutch
« Reply #12 on: 28 June 2013, 19:52 »
totally agree. any play in a balljoint no matter how slight is fit for the bin. good practice to check tracking after changing anything on the suspension I reckon.