in a right f**king mess!

[Dave_IOW]

You don't have a gasket on your sump as such, it's sealant for a seal..

[james2]

Get it to topher .Your like me after a few beers ,you will end up with a mess.  Pay someone that knows what there doing .And someone you can trust.

[Tazzy]

to make things worst, the gf side swiped my back bumper this morning reversing her sh!t box punto off the drive! 

[Dave_IOW]

Could be worse, my missus drives a micra with a heart shaped tailpipe on it thats pink!

[paul54]

problem 5

Sounds like its running into limp mode straight away. This could be down to anything from a dodgy MAF to a simple boost leak. Was there any code on VAG COM? Also if you take your key out, put it back in and start it then rev does it cap at 5k immediately or after a minute?

problem 6 - oil leak - finally found where its coming from, side of sump between a belt of some sort, what's causing this?

The sump hasn't got a gasket, but sealant. You just need to take the sump off, clean and wait for the oil to stop dripping, then reapply the proper sealant. You may have a leak because someone didn't do it properly before you bought the car?

[Tazzy]

it cant be a boost problem, i havnt got a turbo 

i cant remember if the vagcom came up with the maf last time, when i was a shakey raceway earlier this yr, i done a run with the maf unplugged and it ran the same with the mag plugged, it is also held on with cable ties!!

is taking the sump off and re-sealing an easy job?

thanks again  :embarassed:

[opel]

have u checked the fuses on top of the battery as mine had a dirty contact and that put the light on

[Tazzy]

yip, all those are fine, although saying that, they do look like the old fuses, ie, coloured casing, not the see-through coloured casing, however they still appear to be intact

[Hulmie]

as for the rear calipers they do take a bit of work mate, get the tool and also crack the bleed nipple off a little to help relieve the tension. but before cracking the bleed nipple get some brake fluid in a small jar and run some vac pip from the top of the nipple to the jar and ensure the end is covered by fluid in the jar so you dont suck in any air. otherwise you'll have to bleed the brakes up.

Thick cable tie's work on CV Boots, just make sure when you tighten them that the bit of boot that will seal round the shaft is free from grease and likewise with the shaft. Needs to mate on a clean dry surface otherwise it may move.

[Wazzzer]

when I did my turbo change I realised when I put my hand in a load of grease that I had no metal clips holding the CV boots on the narrow end. Nice thick cable ties did the job though