GTI cutting out, oil light flashes

[oxb1l]

HI STILL NOT GOT MY GOLF BACK BUT I DID GET THE FUSE BOX CHANGED AS THE TECHNICIAN WORKING ON IT DISCOVERED IT WAS MAKING NOISES AND IT SHOULDN'T
IT NOW RUNS FOR 5 MINS BEFORE STOP THEN LEAVE IT A WHILE AND IT GOES FOR ANOTHER 5
PS THE VTI I GOT FOR A RUNAROUND IS NOT THAT BAD ON FUEL NOW I'VE STOPPED REVING IT TO 8K IN EACH GEAR    ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR THE GOLF ?
CHEERS BILL!

[RichGolfGTiMk3]

Exactly same problem with my P reg!!

I changed everything (HT leads, rotary arm, spark plugs, fuel filter, ignition switch, regulator and so on, even cleaned the injectors) and it still did it.

Eventually I found a old boy who'd worked for VW for the last 200 years and he said "it's more than likely the 'crank sensor'"

It's a bugger to get to so I had to take it to a local garage - part £50 (German & Swedish) + 1 hrs labour and gues what - that was it! Fixed!!

No more intermitent cutting out!!

[EvilScotsman]

Hi all,

I would like to point out that if any of the suggested items are faulty - then the car will fail.

Think about it -

1. ECU relay fails, no power to the computer hence the car dies.

2. Fuel pump relay fails, no fuel is pumped hence the car dies.

3. Hall or Crank sensor fails, then the computer doesnt know where TDC is etc, so the timing goes out, hence the car dies.

4. Oil pressure sender fails, computer cuts the fuel / spark to protect the engine, hence the car dies.

The bottom line is that ALL these things need to work or the car will cut out!

I must admit im staggered that so many people have had similar faults from the same car, although we are all driving 10+ year old motors and things can and will go wrong. Having read every post on this board regards this problem, the only route to follow is substitution of potential electrical sensors / relays one by one unless VAG points to one particular item.

AGAIN - any ONE of these things failing will cut the engine. Theres no magic cure, just logical fault finding one step at a time.

If you have the electronic equipment to check a part then you can verify whether it works or not. If you dont then substitution one by one is the ONLY alternative 

One last point - mention by BoneyBradley in other posts and not said here yet, is the timing belt. It times the camshaft to the crank, and it can be fitted 1 or more teeth out, or can jump if the tensioner is failing. My car had the belt changed and it suffers from the cutting-out-while idling / hard to start thing. If you can check it or get it checked, do that too. My car "hunts" up and down on idle, and I think he is spot on with that suggestion for me - but your fault may be different.

** What he said about it got me thinking, and it turns out that many years ago we had an audi 80 sport as the family car, it died one day, wouldnt start, and in desperation my old man checked the timing belt setting, and it had jumped 2 teeth out, after running fine previously. He apparently just took it off and refitted it, tightening the tensioner, and it worked after 2 weeks of no starting! (the belt was the last thing he tried) **

If you have these problems, check ALL of the above stuff - not just one thing. 

[JULEE]

Hi All

I have had the cutting out problem for ages now, but I am not driving the car much due to this irritating problem. My symptoms and fix attempts are as follows:-

1] Cutting out when slowing at junctions, and it seems to happen when the clutch is dipped. If I get it out of gear quick and lift up he clutch pedal, it can sometimes stop the car from dying, though you can feel it begin to die and the oil light attempt to come on..

2] The car starts straight away after it has died.

3] Once it got to a stage where it wouldn't start on the drive, then I got a new relay 30 after reading this thread, and hey presto it came to life. It then did about 250 miles without cutting out before it started again. Like before, it seems to be when slowing down, at junctions and when the clutch is dipped.

Now I am not sure what to do next. The dipping clutch/slowing down may be a clue to someone who knows about these things - but not me. Does it point to the crank sensor? If so is it easy to fit/find?

Any further advice will be welcomed.

Good luck to all.

JULEE

[EvilScotsman]

julee, your fault sounds like the ISV or idle stabilisation valve - if fitted (not all engines have one), or an air leak from the vacuum hoses...

If you have one, its a long cylinder shaped jobby fitted in front of the throttle body, under the throttle cable connection.

[JULEE]

Thanks EvilScotsman,

I've took a look at my engine around the throttle body area and there is a small rubber braided pipe approx 18cm long coming from a bronze long tubular part. Is this the ISV? The pipe is connected to an outlet on the throttle body. This pipe is in a poor condition and is perrished somewhat at the throttle body end of it. Is this a vacumm hose that you speak of?

I plan on changing this tomorrow to see it's effect.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Can't post piccies yet, but will soon when I upload them somewhere.

Julee

[JULEE]

OK  here's the perished pipe that I am talking about. Would the condition of this pipe make the car cut-out?

[boneybradley]

If it's the pipe with the green bung's and valve on....yes it can make the car cut out....I had the same pipe go on my last golf and it didn't idle until I gaffered it up.

[EvilScotsman]

Julee thats the vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail. It would leak air when rotten (mine was) but wasnt enough to cut the engine as too small bore.

I fixed mine but - that wasnt the fault

HOWEVER my car started doing what yours is today and it was the throttle cable had become tight and stretched so was slightly too long allowing the butterfly valve in the throttle close too much, so it cut out each time i dipped the clutch. I adjusted the cable stop clip and it runs ok now tho still needs a new cable. Pull off the wee steel clip on the throttle cable sheath and wiggle the sheath out a bit then put the clip one or two rungs closer to the end, then try it. You might need a wee bit of throttle pedal while starting it, but it shouldnt cut out.

Try it and let us know 

[Bluwboy]

Got a Mk3 1.6 GL. Same symptoms, cutting out randomly with Oil light on, starts again after 2 mins.

Changed Relay 30, had a black Made in Tunisia, now got a grey Made in Germany. 200 miles+ city / motorway / A road with no cutting out. Will advise if does cut out again.

Thanks all for the help and advice. An hour reading on here and £11 part and (hopefully) problem solved, no thanks VW Altrincham.

Cheers