After much beer, lazing around by the pool and too much food in Fuerteventura, a bank holiday beckoned and it was time to get into the Manroom again.
I had received a parcel through the post: a new Dremel. I instantly put it to good use to get rid of the 5 bolts that were still left to remove; one from the heater and 4 in the floor where the old subframe used to sit. I found out that there was an easier way to remove them rather than cutting them off: Grind away with the Dremel until the bolt gets hot, then twist it out with pliers as the fibreglass will be warmed suitably to allow it to move. Made my job a lot easier, though it did stink a bit...
I turned my attention to the rusty-looking bias valve which was fitted to the beam. It had still contained brake fluid when I removed it and a quick clean-up revealed that it was surface rust only. I have covered the unions and put it to one side to be painted in due course.
After taking the bonnet off, I noticed that it still had plenty of insulation/soundproofing/heat-proofing stuff on the underside. This was over 30 years old and was hard and brittle. It was also stuck to the bonnet with the strongest glue known to mankind. It took me the best part of a morning to remove it all, with the help of a chef's blowtorch (not as brutal as one you would get from B&Q - I don't have a heat gun) and a scraper. The glue remover that my Father-in-law supplied was evil personified but whatever it was, it got the old glue off easily when applied. I also made a point of removing the bonnet hinge pins as well as the clasp, giving them all a good clean-up in preparation for paint sometime in the future.
Turning my attention to under the bonnet, I decided I was going to cut off the strange "pins" that appeared to be badly fitted close to where the carb sits. They were off centre and didn't appear to serve any purpose. If they turned out to be important they could always be re-added and relocated. They were odd things. They were some sort of plastic outer with a metal post (bolt?) in the centre. They looked like a battery terminal but weren't. Maybe they were some sort of earthing point? I guess I will never know! I have cleaned up the area where they once were and with a small amount of work it will look factory fresh.
Still under the bonnet it time to remove the final bit of brake pipework and get started on the pedal box. After a squirt of WD40, the unions on the splitter undid easily and that was cleaned up. I have kept the pipes for reference purposes when it all goes back together. When I came to remove the pedal box, I found that it is rather badly situated and I may need to modify it slightly. The bolts are just below the main crossmember and as such have been cut about so that they will fit. Just over half a washer and an angled nut does not inspire much confidence. I wondered why it was so difficult to hang a spanner on it. I used Molegrips in the end. Amazingly everything undid nice and easily (must have been all the WD40 I had been regularly feeding it!) and I soon had the pedalbox on the bench.
It was not pretty. There was a lot of rust on it. First thing was first - I had to get it apart. So I covered it in penetrating oil and left it overnight. After a good nights' soaking in 3 in 1 I was able to get the centre pin which the pedals hang on out with a LOT of effort (hammer, molegrips, brute force). I need to give the shaft a bit of a going over with some emery cloth to make sure it doesn't get stuck again before refitting it. I have recut all the threads I can, then attacked the whole lot with the wire brush and Dremel to clean it all up. They now have a coat of paint and look an awful lot better than before!
Dremel! For only £10 more than a new switch too
Brake bias valve now looks healthier: saved myself £70-odd...
Bolts out. At last!
Bonnet covered in nasty soundproofing.
Midway through stripping
All done - there was a lot.
Rusty hinge pins
