Author Topic: Camber - The cheap way.  (Read 22795 times)

Offline robz

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #30 on: 09 February 2011, 16:10 »
well if i put one at the front it will leave me in the same position surely??
whereas for now until i get the shims ill put one under both, to make it stable and ill be happy!
have to say bud, even half a job rob worries about this bodge :D


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Offline Dmonday

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #31 on: 09 February 2011, 16:16 »
1 washer is fine, will reduce toe and you can fully tighten both bolts :) if you put 1 washer on each side you will notice how much toe you will get, most people on edition are just using 1 washer, i understand what you mean with the rear washer hanging though, that will have a massive amount of stress on that bolt.

Dan

Offline robz

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #32 on: 09 February 2011, 18:19 »
See what ya mean, but want even amount of pressure really, it ain't driving far so fuxk it lol
Shims will be alot better!!


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Offline F17BAD

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #33 on: 09 February 2011, 19:45 »
its worth noting that when you put the drum back on (if you have drum brakes) that nut only needs to be finger tight - the one with the mole grips on it "Take the pin out and the cover off should have a large nut behind that, won't be too tight so just need to take that off"

It should just be tight enough to allow the washer behind it to be easily moved with a screw-driver.  If overtighted, the wheel bearing will overheat and you'll hit a tree.

James

Thanks for adding that :) mine was just slightly over finger tight so needed a slight tug with mole grips but didn't effect the movement of it, but yeah don't over tighten :D

Dan


Never mind the nut (sounds like yours was correct tightness) - you need a NEW, yes NEW cotter pin, this is the only thing that holds tho whole lot on, you should never re use the cotter pin, or whats left of it in your pic :shocked: :shocked:
  


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Offline Dmonday

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #34 on: 09 February 2011, 20:14 »
Currently in the process of replacing everything during the VR conversion, rest assured the drums are being replaced with rear discs so all new bearings / pins :) haven't driven the car in around 5 months and i snapped the pin when i resolved the issue i was having with toe so it has never been driven like this more then 20 metres.

Offline robz

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #35 on: 09 February 2011, 20:27 »
so the next question is how much camber can these shim produce... ill skip over to the other thread now :D


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Offline Dmonday

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #36 on: 09 February 2011, 20:35 »
so the next question is how much camber can these shim produce... ill skip over to the other thread now :D

Proper shims i believe are 3 degrees of negative camber, someone correct me if im wrong :)

Dan

Offline robz

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #37 on: 09 February 2011, 20:38 »
nice!


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Offline bored_Welsh_lad

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #38 on: 10 February 2011, 19:40 »
so the next question is how much camber can these shim produce... ill skip over to the other thread now :D

Proper shims i believe are 3 degrees of negative camber, someone correct me if im wrong :)

Dan

nope, i believe at max they are -1.5 degrees, you need 2 shims to get 3 degrees, although you can adjust toe at the same point too
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Offline robz

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Re: Camber - The cheap way.
« Reply #39 on: 10 February 2011, 19:45 »
Cheers Mate for clearing that up!!
Can't wait to purchase em!!


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