Author Topic: jacking points  (Read 4981 times)

Offline rubjonny

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #20 on: 15 January 2008, 17:51 »
I jack the front using the round points on the chassis, then use axle stands on the oem jacking poiints.  I use 2-3 layers of cardboard on the jack/stands to cusion them, stops the underseal being damaged as much plus gives a bit of grip.  At the rear I jack up on the square box section inside the jacking points just in front of the rear wheels, and again put axle stands on the oem jacking points.
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline dadrathers

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #21 on: 15 January 2008, 22:05 »
Like Rubjonny I use the OEM jacking points on the cill for my axla stands but I have prepared two pieces of good quality timber to fit the recess that the OEM jack fits into. I jack off the main subframe where it joins the main body since one of the 'round blobs' collapsed a while back - cost £100 to weld it back on. I also spray the OEM jack point and the places where I put the trolley jack with Waxoyl after every use. Seems to work for me!!

Offline rubjonny

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #22 on: 16 January 2008, 08:35 »
yeah shaped wood would be better, its on my list of things to do  :grin:
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Offline 8vreturn

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #23 on: 16 January 2008, 14:22 »
The best way I've found is to get a 2' length of scaffold plank (which I also use as an extension to ramps to stop the front spoiler hitting) place it under the sill about 10" from the emergency jacking point and lift with a trolley jack.  This lifts the entire side of the car up, I then stick the axle stands in place under the box sections behind the front and rear wheels.

This is also a quick way to get the car up to rotate the road wheels front to back.

Do the same on the other side, checking to make sure the car isn't creeping.

I always use wheel chocks as well and leave the trolley jack in place while the car is up.  Another tip is to stick your road wheels under the car while it is up.

If at all possible I use ramps ie messing about with the exhaust (see below).

If you have a tarmac drive 6" square metal plates are good to stop the wheels of the trolley jack sinking in, you should be able to get them from an engineering company as off-cuts.

In my youth I did some crazy things to get the car in the air, worst of which was to jack the car up off the curb with the emergency jack to try and change the exhaust...  the result being I pulled on the exhaust and the car came off the jack while I was under it.  I was wearing a baseball cap and the car hit the peak when it fell.  I got out from under the car, drove to my nearest motor factor and bought a set of stands, ramps and a trolley jack.  When I got back I moved the car onto the drive too!!

Judderi

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #24 on: 16 January 2008, 14:53 »
Lucky escape. Ive once had a car fall off a scissor jack and ive never used one since!

Offline dadrathers

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #25 on: 16 January 2008, 20:05 »
What a cracking idea about the ramps 8vreturn - it had not crossed my mind before - obvious, derrr!. I had just dug my ramps out of the deep dark place under the stairs but was disappointed to find the spoiler hitting them before the wheels are anywhere near. Thanks for that. Sorry about the slight hijack.

Offline Ben Lessani

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Re: jacking points
« Reply #26 on: 24 January 2008, 15:43 »
My car is lowered to much I struggle to get a 3T jack under the car, so I use a 2T and lift the chassis leg and then position an axle stand under the chassis leg, then use the 3T under the OEM jack point for high elevation if necc.

If your wanting to jack the whole front end - surely using the front/rear subframe is more than adequate to jack from.