2.0 ABF with Megajiz - Talk to me

[Ess_Three]

You want high-output circa 200bhp.

I can show you an ABF delivering +170bhp on OEM management with a good exhaust manifold and a few tweaks, but I can't show you a 100bhp/l output motor on Digifant 3.2. 

I can show you a 190+ BHP ABF on Digi 3.2...but it'll not go over 200.
Oh, and it's on a standard (modified) manifold.downpipes too...and runs a cat/passes the MOT on emissions.
As has been said before, big cams + Digi 3.2 = problems...
I can add a 268 ex cam and break 200 BHP..but it'll not idle, it's useless below 4000 RPM and it's 15lb-ft doen on the 268/std cam set everywhere...for a loss of 5 BHP. I know which is faster out on the road.

For that you'll need ITBs and some pokey management, as well as cams and head-work.

Yup...

[Ess_Three]

Mine was 197 @ fly, 175ish at wheels.

Chewed up and spat out VR's.

Yer i know mine looses 39bhp through gearing and such like

Mine makes about 140-143 ATW...for 190-197 BHP @ flywheel, on a MAHA dyno.
There is no way you'll make 200WHP on a NA ABF with a budget less than the cost of a Lehmann motor or similar!
I have around 50 BHP losses, for a set of 16v ratios, LSD, lots of negative camber and lots of toe out.

[Ess_Three]

If the number '200' is an absolute must...then you're looking at £4000-5000 easily to go there.

If you want it to go like a 200BHP ABF engine/box would, go to 170-180BHP which is fairly cheap, fit a light flywheel, and change the FD on the 16v 'box...a 7300RPM revving 180 BHP ABF on a light flywheel and 3.94 or 4.2 FD, with a good ATB/LSD will be a good set up.

I've just removed a O2A 16v 'box c/w Quaife diff and 4.2 FD and a ligh flywheel to go the next step up...but the last set up was very nice...I'm unsure if the 4.2 was amybe a bit much...maybe the 3.94 I had in before was the better 'road' 'box...but it really sings on a 4.2.

Probably too low for a Mk2 on 15" wheels though...

[Sam]

This is possibly the most interesting thread we have had in the section for a while (to me at least) and it hasnt broke into an argument. Gonna scrap the ABF Megajiz option then, sound like alot of fvcking about with little gain. I think you could turbo a car for 2k with a bit of nouse so will probs stick with turbos and superchargers, playing with them at the tender age of 20 (  ) should set me up pretty good for the future. Cheers guys! 

[Agreeable Slick]

Balls, forgot to check my paperwork. I did however stumble across a RR print out.

I got the figures arse about face, was 157 @ wheels not 175. (thought that sounded a bit high when I typed it) my bad.  :embarassed:

Another consideration is that as you lighten everything, your torque will also drop off a lot more, as you are ridding the car of rotating inertia and mass, so it's a fine line of getting the balance right in order to benefit in both power and torque.

[Sam]

Yer have just been looking into lightening my flywheel but i figured it would lead to heavy turbo lag when accelerating up hill. I got a little distracted by carbon fibre prop shafts too 

[Ess_Three]

This is possibly the most interesting thread we have had in the section for a while (to me at least) and it hasnt broke into an argument. Gonna scrap the ABF Megajiz option then, sound like alot of fvcking about with little gain. I think you could turbo a car for 2k with a bit of nouse so will probs stick with turbos and superchargers, playing with them at the tender age of 20 (  ) should set me up pretty good for the future. Cheers guys! 

For £2k you can drop a BAM/AMK 1.8T in, that was designed to be turbo'd, add a custom map and a decent FMIC have a 265 BHP engine (breaking the 200 BHP @ wheels) and if mapped well, be perfectle drivable without mental wheelspin.
I'd not even think about turboing an ABF when you can drop in a complete set-up that's plug and play as near as dammit.

But then you'd never build a high revving ABF if you wanted big power numbers.

[Ess_Three]

Yer have just been looking into lightening my flywheel but i figured it would lead to heavy turbo lag when accelerating up hill. I got a little distracted by carbon fibre prop shafts too 

A lightened flywheel wouldn't add any more lag....if anything it will help the engine get on boost quicker as it'll rev up quicker.
The flywheel still has weight...just less weight.
Midrange/peak torque is not affected...sure it may idle slightly lumpier (mine doesn't) and it may be easier to stall (true) but none of my other numbers changed...it just revs quicker.

[Sam]

Yer have just been looking into lightening my flywheel but i figured it would lead to heavy turbo lag when accelerating up hill. I got a little distracted by carbon fibre prop shafts too 

A lightened flywheel wouldn't add any more lag....if anything it will help the engine get on boost quicker as it'll rev up quicker.
The flywheel still has weight...just less weight.
Midrange/peak torque is not affected...sure it may idle slightly lumpier (mine doesn't) and it may be easier to stall (true) but none of my other numbers changed...it just revs quicker.

That was just after a quick gander, from what i gather a weighty fly has momentum but takes more effort to get it there and a lightend fly has less but takes less effort, I figured seen as it hasnt been done on my car before there is a reason for it, cos it seems like a fairly obvious/easy thing to do

[Ess_Three]

That was just after a quick gander, from what i gather a weighty fly has momentum but takes more effort to get it there and a lightend fly has less but takes less effort, I figured seen as it hasnt been done on my car before there is a reason for it, cos it seems like a fairly obvious/easy thing to do

I don't get it either...
You can spend £2000-3000 adding 30 BHP...or you can change the flywheel and get what feels like the same gain, out on the road.
...and a lightened flywheel will cost you approx £100 + fitting.

There is probably less of a gain on an O2O flywheel compared to an O2A flywheel as they are smaller to start with (O2O that is).