Author Topic: SH*T strut removal -help!!  (Read 2659 times)

Offline dlongmu

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SH*T strut removal -help!!
« on: 18 September 2010, 15:16 »
OK, can't f'ing believe this. Never has removing struts from a car been such a rotten job! What's with the allen-key hole in the strut thread? well I had all the right tools, 7mm allen socket, 22mm swan-neck, 21mm box spanner etc. so here's the steps I take:

1) loosen top hat bolt (only top one as didnt realise there was one under it) with allen key holding strut still
2) jack car up
3) undo both bottom bolts leaving them in place
4) undo top bolt and hat
5) jack up the hub a little so the 21mm box spanner can get a better purchase
6) slip on the box spanner
7) pop the 7mm allen key in and hold it steady
7) twist.. oh great!

The threaded strut top snaps. A crack right down the side of the allen key hole. The allen key now just spins freely in the hole, theres no shaped hole below the crack. So now I cannot tighten up the top hat and reassemble everything and I cant get the strut off.    Welding anything on is out the question as there's not a garage for 40 miles and nobody I know with a welder any closer. Ditto with air tools.

Any ideas?

Offline Ben Lessani

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #1 on: 18 September 2010, 15:34 »
Grab the shock piston (in the wheel arch) with a set of decent vice grips . Be sure to clip it on at the top, you're unlikely to do any damage on there, any lower down and it could damage the seal.

Offline dlongmu

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #2 on: 18 September 2010, 15:54 »
hmmm.. trying it it's difficult with just 1 person, I put the mole grips on by hand but its nowhere near tight enough trying to sit them in place then crush them in with some more grips but its proving hard. Just ripped open all 5 knuckles on my right hand and given myself a big gash on my left wrist cuz i bloody fell over  :lipsrsealed: lots of loud swearing to be heard

Offline dlongmu

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #3 on: 18 September 2010, 16:06 »
Nope it just keeps slipping off.. can't get any purchase  :angry:

Offline dlongmu

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #4 on: 18 September 2010, 16:34 »
Hmm.. just a thought, could I drill into the strut releasing the pressure then hacksaw it a bit and try to crush it between the mole grips?

Offline Len

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #5 on: 18 September 2010, 17:05 »
I had exactly the same thing happen to me!

Mole grips are no good!
The only way you can do that now is with a compressor and air tools!
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Offline Ben Lessani

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #6 on: 18 September 2010, 17:29 »
It is usually possible with decent vice grips - bear in mind, they have to be *decent*.

If that's not working, then you're going to need an impact gun.

Offline dlongmu

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #7 on: 18 September 2010, 17:41 »
The beauty of spending 140 quid on some amazing quality coilovers.. they come with their own nuts! So all I need to do is get a rubber top mount and bearing (if there is one). Job done, the shock acctually drops out (which I didn't bloody realise!!). Going to refit it now and just take it canny until the new top mount arrives. Thanks for the support and ideas guys!

Offline mike-a

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #8 on: 18 September 2010, 17:43 »
Ditto the mole grips.Good quality pair tight as you can possibly manage on the shock shaft.No need to hold them,just let the shock turn round until the grips are against the inner arch.I used a spark plug socket and a breaker bar to undo one of mine.

Offline dom

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Re: SH*T strut removal -help!!
« Reply #9 on: 18 September 2010, 18:49 »
The beauty of spending 140 quid on some amazing quality coilovers.. they come with their own nuts! So all I need to do is get a rubber top mount and bearing (if there is one). Job done, the shock acctually drops out (which I didn't bloody realise!!). Going to refit it now and just take it canny until the new top mount arrives. Thanks for the support and ideas guys!

You should always replace top mounts when fitting new suspension anyway, it you don't you'll find the old ones will fail very soon after fitting.