ABF into CE1 - She fliessss :D

[Diamond Hell]

Gave my 4-branch to my welder tonight to weld up. 

Make sure it's braced so the flange won't 'curl' when it cools off after welding, or it'll never seal until it's put across a surface grinder.  I bolted my tubular manifold down and then welded flats between the runners to prevent it from curling when I did mine.

Good luck with the deadline 

[fishnchipsx2]

He showed me the flange last night, it's pretty thick.  He did this for a mate (one of the 8-yr-olds in some of the earlier pics) for his mk1 KR conversion, worked really well.  I'll suggest bracing to him, but he is a reputable welder who's spent his life building hotrod frames and doing roof-chops, so he's pretty clued up!

He's only tacking it together for now, so I can offer it up to the engine and see if it'll fit, tall blocks in mk1s have a reputation of 4-branch/steering rack clearance issues.

I guess that if I wanna drive this to BugJam, I really should go out there and get cracking right now!   

[Diamond Hell]

if he's good it won't be a problem - he should be able to keep the temps down.

I'm a bodging c*nt who'd rather ensure there's good penetration, even if it burns a touch (matron!). 

Risk is that is does curl and then you need to get it flatted back.

[fishnchipsx2]

That reminds me, I need at least 1 new exhaust gasket.

Wiring is going well so far, I'm sure questions will come later...

[fishnchipsx2]

Here's a bit of info (if anyone's interested) on the blue/white wire from ECU for vehicle speed sensor (VSS), apparently for cruise control and automatic Corrado spoilers and the like.  I've read this from an American site: (Albeit for an ABA 8v)

The VSS sends a signal to the cluster which is then converted into a signal that continues onto the ECU.  If the ECU sees you accellerating in 4th or 5th gears and sees nothing coming in from the VSS, it cuts the the engine off.  The main issue is to get around this speed limiter/engine cut in fourth and fifth gear if the ECU is not provided with a proper speed signal.
...
If you are pursuing the splicing method, you can use a mechanical speedometer cable driven cluster from a Mk1 or Mk2 that had cruise control or an MFA computer. You must splice a wire into the hall effect sender and run that to the ECU speed input from the cluster.

Exactly how the ECU knows what gear I'm in beats me.  Luckily, I did source some mk1 gti clocks with a rev counter, which just so happens to have an MFA, so if I want over 6000rpm in 4th+5th, I can have it 



Anyway, here come the questions...

* Lambda sensor -ECU pins 28, 20 and 42 - which are heater, and which are signal wires? (Bearing in mind that my pin28 is non-existent, due to model variation I believe.  Is there a different wire from ECU I need to use?)  Still not really sure on relay pin numbers either.  Please don't tell me I need to return my cheapo 4-wire sensor and buy a 3-wire one! 
Edit: Just been looking thru the wiring diagrams, pin65 seems to be relevant too, although not sure if I have that? Will check tomorrow...

* Oil sensors - there's 3 on top of the oil filter, I think I've got em figured out, but just to double-check, can anyone tell me what they are from left to right? 

[rubjonny]

sounds like crap to me, I've done plenty of accellerating in 4th & 5th and theres never been a problem on mine and VSS feed has never been connected. as you say, how will it know its in 4th & 5th anyway?  My thoughts were it was to limit the top speed, but only a guess.

28 - lambda heater relay trigger, only present on early models. later models the lambda just gets power direct from fuel pump relay. if you have a relay and no pin 28, the last pin on relay will be an earth
20 - lambda sensor live (black wire on lambda)
42 - lambda sensor earth (grey wire on lambda)
65 - shield for lambda sensor wires

all abfs use a 4 wire lambda sensor

large brown/blue sensor -> low oil pressure switch, blue/black wire
large white sensor -> high oil pressure switch, yellow wire
small white sensor -> mfa oil temp, green/black wire

[fishnchipsx2]

She's all wired up.  Just need to get myself to TPS tomorrow for a fuel-rail fitting, and then wait for a couple of 6mm-8mm fuel line reducers to come thru from ebay, and I'll be able to fire her up! (Albeit without a manifold  )

[fishnchipsx2]

Just to double check my lambda wiring, because this is the only bit that isn't making sense to me

It's a cheapo 4-wire sensor, and my ECU doesn't have anything from pins 28 or 65.

Lambda Black wire:   ECU pin20
Lambda Grey wire:    ECU pin42
Lambda White wire:  Relay pin87
Lambda White wire:  Earth

Relay pin86: Fuel pump live
Relay pin30: Fuel pump live
Relay pin85: Earth


If you want me to draw a diagram, just gimme a shout 

[danny_p]

not all ABF looms have proveision for a dedicated relay for the heated lambda,  if yours is such a loom th power for it comes from the fuel pump relay 

[rubjonny]

yeah that sounds right, here is an abf wiring diagram:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3abfecu.pdf