Cable from battery to sub.

[jocarl11]

Don't forget to put an inline fuse between the battery and firewall!  Battery = 70amps...if that makes contact with any part of the metal of the car...well...arcs & sparks.  If your car goes up in a cloud of smoke, the insurance wont pay a penny when they find there is no fuse. 

The power cable already has a fuse in line so thats sorted!

[jocarl11]

behind the glovebox is the perfect grommit for the wire (and it's for the alarm siren wiring which is located next to the battery)

Think i found the grommit your talking about and it does look perfect cheers!

Now is for the ground wire connection in the boot, My last car (306) was a pain in the a*** to find a suitable ground to fasten to! I havn't had chance to look on my golf yet but hoping there's a nice bolt to latch onto somewhere?

[boneybradley]

I always use the bolts under the rear seats..there's several there ready to use and it keeps the wires hidden

[Shady Pioneer]

I always use the bolts under the rear seats..there's several there ready to use and it keeps the wires hidden

+1 on that. And if you want to be truly badass, sand down some of the paint where the bolt is and create a perfect contact for the ground. No faffing around putting it near the light cluster etc.

[roger1234]

And if you want to do even better than that run a copper cable back to  the neg battery better than chassis steel and if your running feed from battery just use twin core.

[Larrychips]

And if you want to do even better than that run a copper cable back to  the neg battery better than chassis steel and if your running feed from battery just use twin core.

You wont find twin core cable thick enough to carry the current needed. A sub will draw 8-20amps at 12v...bottom line: Always use a THICK cable...or again...arcs & sparks.  There is the option of using 2 thick cables, but its unnecessary...there are plenty of bolts to crimp a cable to in the boot.

[roger1234]

And if you want to do even better than that run a copper cable back to  the neg battery better than chassis steel and if your running feed from battery just use twin core.

You wont find twin core cable thick enough to carry the current needed. A sub will draw 8-20amps at 12v...bottom line: Always use a THICK cable...or again...arcs & sparks.  There is the option of using 2 thick cables, but its unnecessary...there are plenty of bolts to crimp a cable to in the boot.

Only unnecessary if you are lazy and unimaginitive. copper is an excrllent condoctor and steel is a crap conductor that rusts, ok for lights etc although even they suffer from bad connections but for high quality audio I would absolutly recommend a copper return of exactly the same diameter as the feed and to say you dont get twin core is a pretty wierd thing to say.

[nick_thomas]

As Bradley has already said:

Remove the tray under the glove box, then the glove box. At the rear of where the glove box was there's a rubber grommet about the size of a 5p, mine already had an alarm wire going through it, poke the wire through, that's the hardest bit done! And while all the stuff is out it's easy to route all the cables from the rear of the head unit and down the trim on the passenger side.

As for earth, I used a stud which the rear light attaches to, after I sanded the paint off, this is because I have an enclosure built into the boot.

[jocarl11]

I didn't get in till dark tonight so not had chance to start wiring it yet but should be a straightforward job now i'v had the help cheers guys! The things we do for some bass 

[flash-derby]

lookin at fittin my sub 2moz...........