Newbie - just bought a mint 16 valver, am I mad?!? ... need some re-assurance!

[16valve]

Also make sure everthing works including the heater, i'd also insist on cam belt change with tensioner using vag items, open bonnet and reverse a little whilst looking at engine if it moves ALOT then mounts need changing!!

£4600 is still alot of money so the above post is worth reading again as genuine paint is a must, maybe worth checking windscreen for leaks as usually runs into fuse box and sits in footwells which is nice..

Rear window for rust under rubber inside car, also worth popping off tailgate trim to see if number plate holes and the plinth has any rust, i'm sure seller would re assure you by showing you all this, as its still good money your paying and your not just buying the mileage no matter how low that is.

Just try to read up (using all forums available) on areas to look at when buying a 19 year old mk2 golf.

Im not putting a downer on this just not something you want to be going into blinkered esp being first one you've owned, i've  had 17 and still miss silly stuff like i asked a one owner mk2 over the phone if he had ever had it painted to which he replied no never, travelled 120 miles and he was right it hadnt BUT it needed a bloody respray lol but i still bought it as im obsessed..

Bet we all wish we were coming with you just to all try to spot something so you dont have too at a later date..
Dave

[Conker]

Its probably pearl - my 1991 plate "grey" valver is pearl - Atlas grey changed over to pearl a bit before then.

As for your purchase - it looks mint, and if you keep it that way, I think you'll make money in the medium to long term. By "keep it that way", I mean prevent any rust from forming, so I would be looking into underside sealants, get the door cards off and protect inside there, wing linings, under the carpet. etc. etc. Also keep it clean and waxed (with a good wax e.g. colinite, not some off the shelf sh!t), and keep the platics and rubber protected (e.g. 303 Aerospace protectant - its only a few quid).

I would also look into an "Agreed Amount" on your insurance policy, as a normal policy would give you a tiny amount if you write-it off.


In terms of "have I made a mistake"... No!   There are loads of very vocal people on here who have been lucky and got a minter for not much money, or who only paid £500 for their GTI, but in reality, without traversing the planet or waiting for months and months, you have to invest £££ to get something decent now (unless your one of the lucky ones).

You have paid well over the odds, but f##k it, its only money and at the end of the day you've still bought a fairly cheap motor comapred to some dullard who goes out and buys a brand new Toyota Yaris in Silver with a 14 second 0-60 for £10,000 or something. Plus your car is show-ready out of the box.

Enjoy it!!
 

[sharpie]

a fairly cheap motor comapred to some dullard who goes out and buys a brand new Toyota Yaris in Silver with a 14 second 0-60 for £10,000 or something.

but a yaris would have electric windows 

[kmpowell]

Thanks for all the advice and kind words everybody - it's really putting my mind at ease. I just asked the dealer to take a pic of the datasticker for me, and here it is (I've blanked out the last few numbers on the VIN for obvious reasons).

Let me know what you think, or if there is anything worth noting:



Having noted what Diamond Hell said regarding deadlocks, I will be checking the original paperwork to see if they were dealer fitted. Fingers crossed they were!

As for wishing you could all come to see it next weekend before handing over the readies - I agree fully! Being new to MK2s I am very nervous about all this, but from what I've read on many forums I do have confidence in the dealer.

[Conker]

a fairly cheap motor comapred to some dullard who goes out and buys a brand new Toyota Yaris in Silver with a 14 second 0-60 for £10,000 or something.

but a yaris would have electric windows 

Mine has (as do many Mk2's) got electric windows?  Or am I being stupid and missing the joke?

[sharpie]

Mine has (as do many Mk2's) got electric windows?  Or am I being stupid and missing the joke?

op's doesn't

[Conker]

LP7V  =  Atlas Grey !


Sticker looks good to me. Nice and original.

[dubvrs]

Funny that it's not got electric windows when they were standard on 90 spec 16v's.

Interesting comment. I didn't realise that. It's got electric mirrors if that makes any difference? How did you spot that if the winders aren't shown in the pics?

The electric window switch's should be in the centre console

Electric mirrors are a option. Mine has manual mirrors but electric sunroof.

I would 100% ask the dealer to pop out both of the rear windows before i purchased it. The metal clips that hold the tops of the rear door cards in place rust and then rust the bodywork. Took them out on mine and there is quite a bit on the inside edge around the clips. Will be three both side. Also open the boot and lift the inside of the window rubber (bottom of window) and check for rust.

Both of these places are not checked by people and once the rust has started you only see it when it's too late. These are a true representation of the condition of the car.

[kmpowell]

LP7V  =  Atlas Grey !

Ta! 

The electric window switch's should be in the centre console

Electric mirrors are a option. Mine has manual mirrors but electric sunroof.

Ahhh, gotcha.  I thought all the sunroofs were manual. Another interesting fact, thanks!

I've just run the codes through the online checker on CGTi and to be honest not alot has come up! Not sure how accurate it is!

X2B = National sales program Great Britain
1AF = Power brake
3FB = Spoiler roof
5J1 = Rear spoiler
1C1 = Antifreeze up to -25 degree celsius tolerance up to -30 degree C
4KC = Side and rear windows in heat-insulatingglass
4GF = Windshield in heat-insulating glass
3NB = Rear seat bench/backrest, completely folding
1ME = Steering wheel
Q1D = Sports front seats
8J1 = Hand brake/low brake fluid level warninglight without inscription
8K2 = Daytime driving light mode for urban driving
8M1 = Rear window wiper and washer system with intermittent control
8BK = Twin headlight for driving on the left, with integrated high beam
8D4 = 4 speakers (passive)
3D1 = Center console
8TD = Rear fog light for driving on the left
8WD = Integrated front fog light
8F2 = Side turn signal lights
8U0 = Without additional instruments for distance measurement
1TB = Fuel tank vent line with gravity valve and PVC breather hose
1H1 = Load-sensitive proportioning valve

[Wayne]

It is only expensive if you think it is, it looks nice but seems strong money to me.