mk2 16v engine

[danny_p]

it's a good job i don't know where that scrappie is.    a 30k  abf with non immob ecu is a tasty find esp as it has the easyest loom to intergrate into a mk2 as well, u lucky git

[Neo Badness]

it's a good job i don't know where that scrappie is.    a 30k  abf with non immob ecu is a tasty find esp as it has the easyest loom to intergrate into a mk2 as well, u lucky git

Nah, I dunno if it is or not just said I "hoped" it was. My donor has 136k on it but looked after and as we know the ABF is only "broken in" after 100k

[danny_p]

well mine had 80K n it when it went in  sadly it din't last that long but it did get driven hard,   when i striped it the engine was in very good condtion and still very much with specks,   if had been built with clearnaces at the middel of the tolerances it had aproxamtly another 80 k to go before stuff started getting loose

[Neo Badness]

Hmmn, that's quite impressive as the ABF is supposed to be a pretty strong unit.
Giving mine a bit of look over and I've changed the timing belt/tensioners. Water pump for a metal bladed one. plugs, oil, oil filter, gasket set all to go on. Obviously replacement head bolts/ exhaust bolts etc. Not really going for concours at the moment so will probs leave the obsessive polishing for another time
Thinking about the sonic clean of the injectors as previously suggested on other thread.
 
 Functional and solid are the watch words for the build (possibly also budget ).
But anything else I should be changing to avoid melt down?

[Wayne]

I would take everything you need and fit the complete set up.

[danny_p]

check the wire going into the hall sensor,   in the block nearly behind the oil filter   the wire is a connon fail and leads to stopping if breacks / shorts.    also check inside dizzy for oil.     other than that  the o rings in the water flanges are worth replaceing if can get separate

[Neo Badness]

check the wire going into the hall sensor,   in the block nearly behind the oil filter   the wire is a connon fail and leads to stopping if breacks / shorts.    also check inside dizzy for oil.     other than that  the o rings in the water flanges are worth replaceing if can get separate

Cheers DP

Re actual thread topic I'd say get up there with cash in your pocket, see if you can hear it running and once you're happy got all info you want etc and make a deal and take it away that day.

Or you could do as my mate did for his VR conversion and went and chopped complete front end @ the B pillar!! He's a bit of a mental though...

[danny_p]

you can chop at the A pillars.    and it's hell of a good way to get engine and for conversion and a lot of other shizzel you'll need cheep.

i dose like the 12" shill saw and 4mm cutting rods for ark welder

[Neo Badness]

you can chop at the A pillars.    and it's hell of a good way to get engine and for conversion and a lot of other shizzel you'll need cheep.

i dose like the 12" shill saw and 4mm cutting rods for ark welder

MMMMM, sparks and the smell of scorched metal, love it

Mate has a plasma cutter in his garage, top gizmo, but that's pretty much the same as cutting rods for arc though.
 However it is about as close to a light saber as we'll ever get. Now there's a project...