Author Topic: Clapped out door seals?  (Read 1160 times)

Offline ozegti

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Clapped out door seals?
« on: 19 January 2009, 13:49 »
Right, Hands up.. Who has really crap door seals?

I have found the solution for roughly 8 quid or less, depending on where you can get the materials.

I went to B&Q, But any place that sells curtain wire will do (nick it from your grans place)

Easiest way to do this is to Thread the wire first, then cut.

First, Before shot.


You can see the rubber is in the same place and doesn't move when the door is open or closed.


Start by tucking the wire UNDER the seal. If you begin at the top of the door, you can run your finger under the seal to seat it under there.



You will need to cut it shorter than the actual rubber or when you close the door, the seal will be deformed as it will now sit outside the door/body shutline.

I cut mine to about here

For some, this might be enough.

OR you could skip the first step and do the next (I did both as my seals are REALLY clapped out!)

At the back of the seal, if you lift carefully, you'll see a hole.


Start threading the wire into the hole, till it comes out the bottom of the seal (about 1.7m)


You seal should now look like this.


Don't extend the wire all the way to the B pillar or the back of the seal won't sit with the door.

I now have to close the door harder, and it does so with more of a clunk than it did before.


I did this today and it's cut out so much of the wind noise, I just need to get some sound proofing and window seals for the car to sort it all out properly. Hopefully now, it won't rain inside the car!


Hope this helps some of you!




Offline Jay

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Re: Clapped out door seals?
« Reply #1 on: 19 January 2009, 13:58 »
Nice one, should probably go in the maintenance section.
Passat B5.5 2.3 V5 170, with all the extras.

Want some online storage? Click here to sign up for a Dropbox account.

But for the purest engine experience, displacement has no replacement. All other methods are simply attempts to artificially recreate the benefits of displacement.

Offline Uruk Hai

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Re: Clapped out door seals?
« Reply #2 on: 19 January 2009, 14:05 »
Thats a very good idea mate as its either that or buy new seals and they wont be cheap (if there still available!)

Offline Thom89

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Re: Clapped out door seals?
« Reply #3 on: 19 January 2009, 20:01 »
Not wishing to cheese you, but what you have done, will actually only make matters worse! by lifting the roof seal (threading the curtain wire behind it) you are increasing the resistance on the top of the door frame to the roof moulding, you are now straining the  window frame to make a tight seal, in doing so, you are actually decreasing the resistance against the door frame and the door aperture rubber, increasing the probability that water will find its way past the door seal proper! the roof seal has a felt edge that is not water proof.
The correct way to achieve a better seal is to tweak the door frame, window wound down, and the door open, place your knee on the inside of the door somewhere near the door lock pin, and gently ease the frame towards your chest by pulling on the top of the frame, working your way towards the mirror, this will increase tension to the door aperture rubber, and the roof moulding seal in equal amounts, not forgetting that you can also pull the door in, by adjusting the striker pin on the "B" post...
Hope this helps
Tom

Offline ozegti

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Re: Clapped out door seals?
« Reply #4 on: 19 January 2009, 21:18 »
Not wishing to cheese you, but what you have done, will actually only make matters worse! by lifting the roof seal (threading the curtain wire behind it) you are increasing the resistance on the top of the door frame to the roof moulding, you are now straining the  window frame to make a tight seal, in doing so, you are actually decreasing the resistance against the door frame and the door aperture rubber, increasing the probability that water will find its way past the door seal proper! the roof seal has a felt edge that is not water proof.
The correct way to achieve a better seal is to tweak the door frame, window wound down, and the door open, place your knee on the inside of the door somewhere near the door lock pin, and gently ease the frame towards your chest by pulling on the top of the frame, working your way towards the mirror, this will increase tension to the door aperture rubber, and the roof moulding seal in equal amounts, not forgetting that you can also pull the door in, by adjusting the striker pin on the "B" post...
Hope this helps
Tom

If that's the case, just eliminate the first step!