Timing a vernier pulley?!

[plasticfantastic]

Hi all,

well hopefully tommorrow will be the day that finally fire up my 2.0ltr conversion!

a busy day was spent today assembling the head.....






question is...... once i finally have her together and timed up, do i reset the vernier to zero? its currently set at about 9(minutes im guessing?!) the car was running at this setting when i bought her, very bad tickover! but running.

Never realy had any experience with verniers, so any help much apreciated!

cheers all

[danny_p]

vernier,  it just lets you put the cam and the cranck exactly where they shoudl be,  so if the belt is half a tooth out  you loosten it slide it round put the blet on,  tension the belt up and lock the pully

[sidecarphil]

not really ,

when i built my engine i set it to 0 degrees and left it for the dyno guy to play with and see what power he can get out of it 

it is probably 9 degrees not minutes

post more piccy's of the build as it goes on

[plasticfantastic]

Cheers for the info guys!

didnt realise it would have been that much movement! 9 degrees seems alot!

hopefully i will be able to get her too idle a little better, i have found a few split hoses including the connector under the flying saucer. also 2 of the injector seats were completely mangled, and since getting getting my injectors back with a report they should now be much better!

so we think to reset it to zero the time the engine from there?!

ill try and keep you all as upto date as possible!

cheers all

Also, my car has a K&N 'induction' kit fitted i was really hoping to put a standard airbox back in but time and funds havent allowed this. all the small airlines comming from the throttle body have been blocked off (badly), do these need connecting anywhere?!

[danny_p]

not really ,

when i built my engine i set it to 0 degrees and left it for the dyno guy to play with and see what power he can get out of it 

it is probably 9 degrees not minutes

post more piccy's of the build as it goes on

it ain't 9 degrees.

i said it lets you put the cam exactly where it should be and that is what it dose, you may need to do some dyno time to define this point.   

idealy the pully shoudl be on 0deg when the cam is timed to TDC and the cranck is at TDC,  with belt tensioned then lock pully the cam remains exactly where it was placed  this is usefull info for later.   on the dyno you can tweek you cam timeing back and forth upto about 4 deg depending on engine,  the affect this has becomes more noticeable with more agressibe cams

the reason you tension the belt then lock the pully is so you KNOW exactly where the cam is in relation to the cranck,  if you tension the belt with the pully locked you will actualy be retarding the cam timeing slightly.  this method will mean the start  point isn't quite 0  on the pully but at least it is defined. 

[plasticfantastic]

Cheers danny_p!

just the info im after. I already realise i will need a rolling road session soon to get her running spot on, but hopefully i'll be able to get her close enough to get me mobile again! (2weeks without driving now  )

any ideas on the air hoses?!?!

[danny_p]

what cam do you have ?     or if you know what angel it hits full lift at compare this to the vw  whitch is 110deg iirc and that gives you a rough idea of what to set teh vernier to.


whitch air hoses ?    can proably find a piccy of relivant ones 

[plasticfantastic]

Hi all,

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

cheers for everyone's help getting me to this stage!

i still need to get a timing light on her to get her closer, but she now idle's nicely at 900 (even with the 276 cam!)

Hopefully i'll be able to find out what she goes like tomorrow, need to do a quick trip to GSF to pick up some front brake lines (for my 280's!) and a water pump, and a new blue temp sender from the stealers.

cheers all

[paultownsend]

can i ask what manifold you used? and is there any clearence problems?