Losing oil?

[mk2mark]

I just topped up my car by 2 litres in not far off 1000 miles - no blue smoke, doesn't seem to be any leaks - where could it be going?

[Mr Blue]

mine smokes on start up.

valve seals i was told.

[rubjonny]

out of every seal there is, check the sump and gasket 1st, replace it with a rubber seal & new bolts, as the old foam type isn't that great.

[Ben Lessani]

mines doing the exact same thing, but i get white smoke on startup, ive put it down to 20 year old valve seals and me driving it like a loon. It used about 3l in about 1000 miles. I still consider it high, but there is no visible leaks on Block, Sump or Head, its still clean - so it must be burning it.

I would recon the head but I can't be bothered, theres no performance issues right now, so I'll just keep running it.

If you can't see it leaking out, then its burning it - probably not that obvious though, my step dads Audi Coupé's valve seals are nuked and burns oil by the gallon - but the exhaust fumes are nice and invisible.

[mk2mark]

I actually have a gsf sump gasket but it looks slightly complicated to get off. A fair deal of white smoke, but I'm pretty sure that's just the old car and not the head gasket or anything cause there's no mayo whatsoever and there's no coolant problems.

Could it be valve seals? The only time the car ever smells like burnt oil is when I spill it on the manifold :embarassed:

[clipperjay]

I remember once some guy had missing oil drain out from some where and his lump was in good stead!
Guess where the oil came and collected?

In the steering section on the CV boots I think it was leaking from somewhere and collecting in the steering sections of the wheel. He noticed his CV boots was dripping oil weird, but even I'm not sure how engine oil dripped through the steering columns rack?

[systemseiko]

Right now the important thing is to determine the cause of the oil consumption. Is it from the valve seals or the rings/ gasket etc,  Basicaly a simple wet/dry compression test with the engine cold

To do an accurate compression test, remove all the spark plugs from the engine. ensure U mark each 1 of them up by cylinder,  Num 1 nearest camshaft.
Now install the compression tester in cylinder number one and get a friend to assist by cranking the engine about six or seven turns. Write down the compression reading and go on down the line. Good compression would be about 130 pounds. More important that the actual compression is that the readings should all be within 10% of each other.

Now that you have the dry readings, squirt two or three good squirts of motor oil into number one and do the test over. Note the reading next to the dry reading and go on down the line. Once you are done, compare the wet/dry readings. If the wet readings show a marked increase, say 20 to 25%, then you have ring problems and it's time for an engine overhaul. If there is a small increase, say 5 -10%, then the problem is in the valve seals and they will need to be replaced.
I will try and get the correct cylinders fro both 8 & 16valves,  currently at work with no Autodata.

[Ben Lessani]

EV (84-87), 1.8 GTi 8v ........ 10 - 13 Bar
KR (85-91), 1.8 GTi 16v ...... 10 - 13 Bar
PG (90-91), 1.8 G60/Rallye . 10 - 13 Bar

bit vague really. there usually isn't a standardized figure for NA engines, anywhere between 10-14 Bar is acceptable, its the difference between cylinders that will cause you check for.