Cold air induction kit

[Say bye bye]

Anyone fitted one of these and got some pics??? also do i leave the gaurd at the bottom on or off?  or should i modify the passenger side lower grill to let air threw?

[Ivor Mk4 Turbo]

I would leave it standard until the Autumn, IMO.  I switched back to standard about 3-4 weeks ago, as I convinced myself that the car was under performing due to heatsoak from my BMC.  Could just be in my head, though.  (Although I did smoke a Mk5 GTi this morning! )  The car does seem to be performing better in this heat with the OE airbox back on!

[New Duncan]

Hi Ivor,

I think one should consider a higher humidy induction kit (if it were at all possible) I will attempt to explain:

That's my opinion also, heat soak in high temps and very low humidity will spoil low end pull. I'd noticed also that my standard AUM was not giving me the grunt I had got use to at low revs in this heat wave

I've come to the opinion that the air intake requires some induced humidity, (more normal for the English climate) so that the petrol air mixture passes into the inlet side without so much vapourisation (air too damn dry). I'd swear that if one could hang an open container with a sponge kept moist,  to provide humidity, ie extra 02 oxygen, power would increase significantly.

Hot soak is not understood by many folk. However if one could test the turbo performance on a damp morning against the seering hot days we have had where the O2 is lower, there would be a difference in performance. Knocking, as it use to be reffered to as, was retarded ignition, or a too long a stroke on the con rods due to design of a longer / narrower combustion chamber; Similar combustion principles at work here.

As for burning off, I recently p*ssed off a a brand new BMW 530

 

[New Duncan]

Hi Ivor,

I think one should consider a higher humidy induction kit (if it were at all possible) I will attempt to explain:

That's my opinion also, heat soak in high temps and very low humidity will spoil low end pull. I'd noticed also that my standard AUM was not giving me the grunt I had got use to at low revs in this heat wave

I've come to the opinion that the air intake requires some induced humidity, (more normal for the English climate) so that the petrol air mixture passes into the inlet side without so much vapourisation (air too damn dry). I'd swear that if one could hang an open container with a sponge kept moist,  to provide humidity, ie extra 02 oxygen, power would increase significantly.

Hot soak is not understood by many folk. However if one could test the turbo performance on a damp morning against the seering hot days we have had where the O2 is lower, there would be a difference in performance. Knocking, as it use to be reffered to as, was retarded ignition, or a too long a stroke on the con rods due to design of a longer / narrower combustion chamber; Similar combustion principles at work here.

Smoking off:

As for burning off, I recently really p*ssed off   a  brand new BMW 530 owner very early one morning, in round-about land south of Reading. He got past me on the straights for sure, but every time we got to corners or multi lane roundabouts, I be ahead for a while  

If I go for the remap, that guy will be in my rear view mirror  .  I'm not so sure though that the AUM is such a strong engine as you guys imply. You can hear big-end chatter from the main bearing shells. When you change down at say 80 - 90 give her full throttle on a motorway gradient, to get well past all those damn people carriers cluttering up the place. This clatter is noticeable on first start up, after standing overnight.  I've checked one or two other turbo's out when starting and all are worse on higher mileage.  

I'd need to speak to a few Audi techies to see what changes were made to the 1.8 unit in the TT . Presumably Ivor, you don't give her full bore all that often, and how often do you red-line  

BTW, the F1's are getting better, but I shan't buy again for this car. I'd consider the soft Pirelli Pzero negro's next time - I'm not that bothered about about an extra 8000 miles on harder compound. The reason for this is simple - a full tank of petrol cost, is the same as the wear rate lost on a pair of soft compound tyres, yet the hard compound is not so clever on the back - the MK4 is front heavy (as are all standard hot hatches) and with front wheel drive............. the stern of the car hops around - you need to be carefull.

Cheers.

NB.  To others thinking of performance tyres - Watch out for Pea shingle on those F1's they are a nighmare for collecting the stuff in the V tread.

 

[Ivor Mk4 Turbo]

For me, the redline is a target, not a limit!

Nah, seriously, I do like to open her up on a regular basis, though.  Never from cold, mind, & the turbo is always left to 'calm down' for a couple of mins before I switch off.  My car had only recorded 32k last May when I picked her up! Not bad for a MY2000 )

[New Duncan]

Lucky to find one with that low mileage, very lucky indeed.

Mine on mid 2001 build had 44k on the clock (which is fine) except, no cambelt change, no air or oil filter change, standard sludgy oil that was as black as sin, (but no emulsion in rocker box top, which is good). Previous owner unable to afford this type of car.  Lousy cracked P6000 tyres been on there since new on the stern. Rear discs scored ! on outer perimeter. Yep  I took a risk .....because the drive was still good, and more than £2k less than dealers for an AUM.