Danny, sorry, I missed this! also surprised that no one else has picked it up!
Is you car on a spit?
Logistics for this type of project are as important as the hard graft itself, you also need a plan where you can walk away from the car for a few weeks should you get pissed with working on it, but without work that you've done, deteriorating!
So not knowing where you are at this stage, I'll assume that you've not yet etched or primed the car...
Once a panel area has been stripped to bare metal, its very important to get it covered up, with at least etch primer ASAP, bare metal is porous, and will draw water from the atmosphere almost immediately, this will cause problems with the paint micro blistering in the future... So, strip a panel, then etch it, move onto the next an so on...
Bodywork can easily be done after etch, so don't worry too much about dents and welding at this stage...
Dents etc can be dealt with by sanding back the etch with 80grt and repairing as normal, re etch repaired area, then 4 or 5 coats of a decent high build 2K primer, again, the quicker you get the panels in primer, the better
Underside of the shell... Long experience has taught me not to use anything other than Satin Black 2k Topcoat, Kitty litter rips anything else to shreds, some race tracks are worse than others! depending on the shape of the stones... seriously! Just using paint keeps weight to a minimum, and is as easy as it gets to repair, we tend to let the car go for a few seasons before a refurb,
All suspension components should be powder coated satin black, and not painted...
Again, not knowing what stage you are now at...
Interior should be primed asap, as should the roll cage prior to fitting... Primer should be close in colour to whatever colour you're going to paint the interior, ie,white interior, use a white or light grey primer,
Black interior, use a dark grey primer, with a bit of black paint mixed in, this will help massively with the coverage, and again, help keep the weight down
Roll cage should then be welded in after primer, local repairs carried out on the burnt areas, then painted the colour of choice after
Double mask the interior before commencing with the work on the rest of the exterior paintwork
Max Meyer primers are VERY good, and easy to use, including the etch...
Get 2 ltrs of etch, and 2 ltrs of activator, mix 1 to 1, use zero thinner! also discard etch that has been mixed for more than a few hours, as it loses its strength
Get 3ltrs of Primer, and 2 ltrs of Hadner for the primer, Mix 2 to 1 + a dash of thinner per 500ml mixed, less or zero thinner if the workshop is cold
Hope this little lot gets you on your way, let me know if theirs anything I've not covered for the "into" primer stage
Thom
