Author Topic: Cab ICE  (Read 2050 times)

Offline richard ellison

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Cab ICE
« on: 09 July 2004, 20:48 »
looking at the speakers for my cab-

after advice froma  few of you before (mainly adam) i think i just need fron speakers and some on the rear parcel shelf. Not sure if the will fit on the std shelf due to the metal bars, or whether it should be reinforced?

got a sub, amp and wiring kit- would be good to install but havent got a clue.... last time paid about ?80 to get it all fitted

what wattage and sizes do i need (are the front speakers std sizes?!)

Cheers

Rich

Offline AdamB

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Re:Cab ICE
« Reply #1 on: 09 July 2004, 21:27 »
firstly Rich, what size are your rornt speakers? If it is a post 88 cab you will have the larger pockets and bigger speakers, I'd reccomend buying a decent replacement set as the standard ones probably wont take much amplification.

I would also reccomend replacing the rear door card speakers with a good set too, and forget about the parcel shelf for the time being, as they are next to useless with the roof down (something worth doing during the winter when you will hear  the benefit)

To wire the Amp in, use the thick red wire in the wiring kit, straight from the battery to the +ve terminal on the amp. Install the fused end closest to the battery (remove fuse untill wiring is finished). Then attatch the brown earth wire from the -ve terminal to the chassis, ensuring a good contact is made (scrape away a bit of paint.
Next wire the blue remote from the rear of your head unit to the "remote" terminal on the amp, with the blue wire in the kit.

Then use the twin wire with the plugs on the end to connect the pre-outs at the rear of the head unit to the same on the amp. Finally you are left with wiring the speakers in, using the thiner twin speaker cable in the pack, to the amp. Ensure the +ve and -ve connections are the right way round for better base response.

The wattage of each channel on the amp wants to be about 60% of the speaker wattage.  This will prevent the speaker being underdriven, which is as detrimental to the sound quality as overdriving them.
i.e. a 240 watt 4 channel amp, will give 60 watts per channel. So your speakers probably want to be able to handle 100watts.

TBH you will probably be better to speak to an audio specialist, who will be able to advise you on a good set up. But wiring it in yourself is a doddle.
I don't own this anymore - I just can't be arsed to change the picture

Offline richard ellison

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Re:Cab ICE
« Reply #2 on: 10 July 2004, 17:33 »
thanks adam- doesnt sound too hard. i think the major issue is getting the wires under the carpet to look flush.


Offline AdamB

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Re:Cab ICE
« Reply #3 on: 10 July 2004, 17:51 »
easy enough to do Rich, just pull the plastic door sill up (snaps off) and pull the carpet up. If you are mounting the amp in the boot, then you will need to take the rear seat up, this is just 2 screws at the front of the seat. Remember to keep the power wires and audio wires seperate to avoid interference.
I don't own this anymore - I just can't be arsed to change the picture

Offline richard ellison

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Re:Cab ICE
« Reply #4 on: 29 July 2004, 21:04 »
good news is getting the sub and amp fitted next wednesday for the bargain price of.....


.....?20!!! rocking that out!

cant wait to have the bass once again.

then ill see how the speakers fair up.....


Offline richard ellison

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Re:Cab ICE
« Reply #5 on: 04 August 2004, 20:11 »
got it installed today....

fantastic to have the bass back (even if it does sacrifice half my boot space)

you can hear the bass well outside the car... lmao..