Intake temp of 48 on the mfa..

[DazVR6]

Well i fitted my lower intakes from Bored_welsh lad the other day and had nowhere to put my outside air temp senser so i thought that i'd place it in the engine bay next to my induction kit so i could moniter my intake temp, was interested to now just how hot it gets under there.

Was at its highest when driving around town today, 48C, thinking i really need a heat sheild, must be sapping my grunt even though i don't really notice it.

What you lot think, high or what..?

[Mikester]

well considering the outside air temp was probs about 22 for arguements sake.

Then take into account that you are moving, so the air should be colder at 30-70mph (when you stick ur hand out the window its cold)

I would say it should be lower than 48 :/ Not sure how low you could get it tbh mate.

Have you got a forced air feed up to the cone??

[kells]

yeah a heatshield wont make much difference believe me, will still be the same temp under the hood, a bit of meatal aint gonna do much, best thing to do is just get more cold air feeds to it, i have 3 going to my K&N on my swift, gonna get more on the golf too...

tbh i have never had any probs with heat sapping my power and making car run bad like some people claim

[Mikester]

I agree with kells, in the end, you need to just get loads of air flowing UP into the engine bay, towards the cone, if you can direct a lot of cold air towards the cone, then maybe a sheild could work. if it was fairly boxed in. Im not sure....

[Paul86S2]

A heat shield will stop hot air being sucked in from the engine bay but will not stop the heat from heating up the shield which will radiate heat into the shielded area. you will then be sucking in hotter air but it should still be colder than the engine bay air.
A shield with an outside shiny surface will work better than a dull surface because it will reflect some of the heat, and some form of insulation will also help.
Best case would be a sealed insulated heat shield with a shiny outer surface and a cold air feed into the heat shield area.

Cold air is denser than hot air so the colder air into the engine will mean more HP. Thats why cars seem to go better on cold damp days.

Paul

[boneybradley]

A lot of engine heat comes from your manifold and its possible to buy some exhuast heat wrap...(when i worked in the trade we used it on the companys rally car and it really made a difference power wise)

[Paul86S2]

Wrapping your exhaust manifold and downpipe works well for 2 reasons. It decreases engine bay heat and therefore heat soak into your intake air, and it will keep heat in the exhaust and the hot exhaust gasses will flow out faster through the exhaust.

Have you felt the temp of the intake manifold after a drive, mine is always too hot to touch, it would be nice to get this down whilst keeping the engine temp at optimum. Feeding cold air into the intake is good but it still gets heated through the intake manifold.

Paul

[DazVR6]

well considering the outside air temp was probs about 22 for arguements sake.

Then take into account that you are moving, so the air should be colder at 30-70mph (when you stick ur hand out the window its cold)

I would say it should be lower than 48 :/ Not sure how low you could get it tbh mate.

Have you got a forced air feed up to the cone??

Yeh ive got a cold air feed but could do with more feeds i suppose.

[DazVR6]

A lot of engine heat comes from your manifold and its possible to buy some exhuast heat wrap...(when i worked in the trade we used it on the companys rally car and it really made a difference power wise)

Yeh my 6 branch mani is too hot to touch after just 60 secs of the engine being turned on, its rediculous after a long drive, the thing emmits so much heat.

Heat wrapping isn't an option as the mani has to come off for this and thats a mission aswell as ive heard it can also dammage the welds.