Anyone running this set up?

[Screech16v]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MOTORSPORT-GOLF1-2-3-4-JETTA-CORRADO-VENTO-ANTI-TOE-TORSION-BEAM-AXLE-EXCH-/190894299903?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c722fdaff#ht_1418wt_1084

Seen this sort of setup under the reeves mk1 before and looks pretty easy to replicate tbh

[tweed]

Honestly can't see why you would need it? 

no power through rear wheels and not a lot of weight on them when cornering. Front does the work.

Seems total waste to me.

[Wayne]

Cannot see it being worth the expense for a road car.

[Ess_Three]

Honestly can't see why you would need it? 

no power through rear wheels and not a lot of weight on them when cornering. Front does the work.

Seems total waste to me.

Rear toe is all over the place when cornering hard on sticky tyres...and camber can change too.
That type of set-up locks the toe & camber settings and stops beam flex from altering them.
If the rear geometry keeps moving, then the car isn't predictable and you end up see-sawing on the steering wheel to counter it.

It's a copy of the Factory modified beams from the 90s.

So, not a waste at all...
But utterly pointless on the road if using cheap-ass coilovers and Ditchfinder3000 tyres!

[Ess_Three]

Cannot see it being worth the expense for a road car.

Agreed...
It's a very specific solution to a problem most people just won't have.

[Len]

Good scene points though!

 

[Screech16v]

Honestly can't see why you would need it? 

no power through rear wheels and not a lot of weight on them when cornering. Front does the work.

Seems total waste to me.

Rear toe is all over the place when cornering hard on sticky tyres...and camber can change too.
That type of set-up locks the toe & camber settings and stops beam flex from altering them.
If the rear geometry keeps moving, then the car isn't predictable and you end up see-sawing on the steering wheel to counter it.

It's a copy of the Factory modified beams from the 90s.

So, not a waste at all...
But utterly pointless on the road if using cheap-ass coilovers and Ditchfinder3000 tyres!

Good to know this ess cheers for the useful info !

[tweed]

I always thought that rear end twitchy feeling was the rear beam mounts  well it was.

Never had good enough tyres to have the rear beam flex so much that it makes the car so unstable you end up sawing at the steering wheel.

I guess your talking from experience?
Do you use slicks on yours?

I just want to know at what point do you need to upgrade the rear beam to cope with the grip?

Most track cars are road legal. So if you was using say the r888, would you need to do this mod?

[Ess_Three]

I guess your talking from experience?
Do you use slicks on yours?

I just want to know at what point do you need to upgrade the rear beam to cope with the grip?

Most track cars are road legal. So if you was using say the r888, would you need to do this mod?

I have R888s and A048s.

The point at which you need it, is the point at which the rear end starts moving, and you have done everything else to the set-up and are running a very good suspension system, with optimesed geometry...that's not £200 hot tuning coilovers for those in any doubt!

If you don't think you need it...you probably don't.

If you are driving hard enough to get some odd movement, then you probably know you need it.


Things to consider:
Unless the work has been done very well, and measured correctly, you may find :

It doesn't all fit because the fuel tank gets in the way - so you have to move the tank, or not run that rear beam.

You may find your wheels don't fit over the turreted connections for the tie bars.

It doesn't all fit because the tie bar hits the exhaust, leading to a bespoke exhaust having to be fitted.


So, to sum up...unless you are building a very specific trackday/race car to run a beam like this, you probably don't need it...or can't run it.