SAI Delete

[JimBR]

I've just ordered the blanking plate from forge but I'm unsure about what to do with the connectors for the N112 and N249.

Shall I leave them plugged in but with no vacuum line connected. Or cut the connectors off and solder resistors in like some guides suggest doing?

I've done the N249 bypass and just left it plugged in and have had no fault codes appear so I'm thinking of just doing the same with the N112.

Obviously the connector for the SAI pump itself will have resistors.

What would you guys do/have done? 

[jockgti]

don't need resistors in sai pump connector,doesn't give any errors apart from improper flow which resistors won't cure,i have resistors in 249/112 connectors with all valves and pipes removed and no codes

[JimBR]

Great stuff mate cheers 

I think i'll remove it all but leave the N249 and N112 plugged in for now as I read somewhere that fuel trims were affected if the N112 was unplugged. I think it might have been on Audi-Sport. If they throw a code ill put resistors in, it would only take half hour to solder a couple in anyway 

I might just unplug the SAI pump and save £21 if its not going to cause any problems.

[Mr_Orange]

SAI delete really cleans up the cluttered bay     

I already had the N249 delete before starting this.  I've left the other unit (N112) plugged in, as its not visible under the inlet manifold bracket/trim.  You can also pull out the vacuum hardlines, if you re-route or blank off the ones that are left over.

Hardest part is getting the SAI pump bracket out, some of the bolt heads are almost impossible to access!  You'll also need a bung for the SAI feed off the airbox unless you've already got induction etc.

Only issue I had afterwards was an incorrect flow fault code 16795.  It has to be mapped out of the readiness checks 

[JimBR]

Yeah I'm just going to leave the N249/112 plugged in there hardly in the way. While everything is apart I will probably remove those metal lines as there's nothing connected to them anyway 

I asked Nick at R-Tech and he said he can map out the error code for me so I'll give them a call as soon as I've done it 

I've got a jetex filter and heatshield so the hose won't be a problem. It's got a little breather in at the moment.

I read somewhere that you can use a long 5mm ball head Allen key to remove the plate thing without taking the coolant hose out but I'll wait and see 

[rio_gti]

Sounds good, can you do me a favour when you receive the blank trace round it and put dimensions on it?? As I was going to make one out of stainless steel but I don't have a template yet to do it from??

[Mr_Orange]

Sounds good, can you do me a favour when you receive the blank trace round it and put dimensions on it?? As I was going to make one out of stainless steel but I don't have a template yet to do it from??

Make a few and sell them on ebay..... 

[jockgti]

if i remember correctly the forge ones have a raised circle on the back with a thin rubber washer

[Mr_Orange]

if i remember correctly the forge ones have a raised circle on the back with a thin rubber washer

Yup, they do indeed.  A small O-ring groove.  You'll need access to a CNC mill to replicate that.

[JimBR]

Sounds good, can you do me a favour when you receive the blank trace round it and put dimensions on it?? As I was going to make one out of stainless steel but I don't have a template yet to do it from??

Yeah sure mate. If I can be arsed I'll do it properly on inventor.