Author Topic: Timing.  (Read 2277 times)

Offline P6UL K

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Timing.
« on: 30 May 2011, 01:46 »
Evening all,

I replaced the dizzy on the GTi today and now its running like rubbish, i'm guessing the timing needs to be set up correctly.

Is this something i can do or is it garage time?
Cheers,

Paul.

Offline Rmachines

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Re: Timing.
« Reply #1 on: 30 May 2011, 08:33 »
You can do it, its quite easy.


1.  Remove the air box and upper cambelt cover and remove spark plugs (not necessary but helps to turn the engine over)

2.  rotate engine using a spanner on the camshaft sprocket bolt (dont do this if you didnt take the plugs out, use the crank, turn until the notch on the camshaft sprocket (O-T) Points to the arrow on the rocker cover.

3. Now the engine should be timed up (providing you didnt touch the cambelt when you removed the dizzy) Remove the dizzy cap,  the rotor arm should be pointing at a notch on the body of the dizzy,  If its not, slacken the 13mm clamp bolt and rotate until it is.

4. Refit and retry.


Timing does not need to be set 100% on these, as long as its as close to the marks as possible,  the timing is automatically controlled by the ECU providing its physically in range to do so.




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Engine cranes = the ultimate tool to test the tensile strength of Everything you didn't disconnect!


Offline P6UL K

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Re: Timing.
« Reply #2 on: 30 May 2011, 09:21 »
Amazing!

Thank you  :cool:
Cheers,

Paul.

Offline robz

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Re: Timing.
« Reply #3 on: 30 May 2011, 09:39 »
could you do a guide for if you have to remove the belt mate. as i will be replacing the stem seals soon and not done it before :)
good guide though :)
cheers


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Offline Rmachines

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Re: Timing.
« Reply #4 on: 30 May 2011, 10:53 »
Cam belt removal and refitting


Jack up the drivers side and remove the wheel, remove the lower plastic splash guard to access drive belts (if fitted)

Remove the airbox,  and upper cam belt cover, remove the dizzy cap and all four spark plugs (number the HT Leads)

From the underside,  slacken off the 13mm bolt on the back of the power steering pump and on the front and the 16mm bolt on the top of the pump,  then turn the toothed bolt to push the pump inwards to slacken the belt, remove the belt.

From the wheel arch,  loosen off  the three Allen bolts on the water pump sprocket, ensure they do not get rounded off, you may need an extension bar to get good access,  dont remove the bolts while the belt is still on, just loosen it.

Slacken off the alternator bolts at the top and the bottom, using a crowbar or similar, push the alternator downwards to take the tension off the belt (its spring loaded)  Remove the belt.

With the belt removed, remove the water pump pulley and Remove the bottom pulley – Do NOT unbolt the crankshaft center bolt,  you must unbolt the four Allen bolts,  Use an Allen key socket, make sure its fully inserted, tap it in if necessary as these can round off.  Give it a crack with a ratchet, and remove both pulleys.   

Remove the 13mm bolt from the bottom cam belt cover,  and the two smaller Allen key bolts that hold the cover on, remove the cover.

Timing the engine


Refit the bottom pulleys, there is a cutout on it, this is used for timing, nip up a couple of the Allen bolts (note it only fits on one way)  At this point, use some tippex or similar to paint the mark to help see it.

Insuring the spark plugs are removed to allow the engine to turn freely, use a socket to rotate the bottom crank pulley to line up the timing. You can rotate it by the cam, but only turn it clockwise or it may come loose.



The camshaft must be lined up to the arrow on the rocker cover/head  the mark is identified by O-T

The AUX Shaft (dizzy shaft)  has a dot on it,  this must be pointing at the notch you tippexed on the crank belt pulley.  At this point, providing the cam is lined up, the rest should be correct, remove the bottom pulley again and use tippex to make your own marks on the crank and aux, this saves you having to put the crank pulley back on.  The distributor also has a notch, make sure rotor arm points at this notch.

Using a 15mm spanner or socket,  slacken the tensioner bolt, push back and remove the belt.

Fitting new belt

Now, replace tensioner

Put the new belt on, the belt may have directional arrows, ensure they face the correct rotation of the engine.

Place the belt on the bottom crankshaft pulley, and on the AUX pulley, be careful as this moves easily,  using your own marks, check its still lined up and put the belt on the camshaft pulley, check its all lined up still and apply tension to the belt,  the tensioner must be turned clockwise (upwards) use some needle nose pliers in the two holes, I bent the end of mine so I have a good tool to use again In the future. 

The correct tension is achieved by the ability to turn the longest stretch of the belt though 90 degrees with finger and thumb pressure.

Turn the engine over to ensure the marks line up correctly.  Ensure the tensioner bolt is tight.

Refit the cam cover, pulleys and belts, refitting is reverse of removal.

Here are the necessary pics to help you








10 golfs and counting! 

Engine cranes = the ultimate tool to test the tensile strength of Everything you didn't disconnect!


Offline robz

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Re: Timing.
« Reply #5 on: 30 May 2011, 11:25 »
That's a fantastic gude thank you very much!
Worth a sticky somewhere?
Best get started haha


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Offline P6UL K

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Re: Timing.
« Reply #6 on: 07 June 2011, 10:50 »
I'm having a few issues timing up my engine as there doesn't seem to be a timing mark on the inner/crank pulley just on the outer pulley and it doesn't line up when the cam pulley does?
Cheers,

Paul.