yes you can keep all the mk3 anxileries, recommended as they're better. mk2 pas pipes fit right onto the mk2 pump, but you might want to change the pipes for mk3 ones if they look a bit ropey, they'll probably want doing by now. Both the lines from the rack swap over, the one to the reservoir will need cutting down a bit. the pipe from reservoir to pump you need to use the MK2 one as its longer than the MK3. but its rubber so will be fine anyway.
i also used a mk3 front coolant flange, metal pipe and hoses too as they're a bit neater. a little fiddling was needed to get the breather hooked up but no big deal. rocker cover swaps over, just make sure you fit new rubber gasket and change the rocker cover studs for unshouldered ones if you have the old style with shoulder. actually, once the studs are out use bolts to fit the rocker cover instead, otherwise its a real mission to get the alloy cover to fit due to tight clearance between the fuel rail/fpr and the inlet.
here is a rough list of what you want:
10x head bolts
Head gasket (metal one is preferable for big power, if 2.0 an ABF one, if 1.8 a G60 one)
Inlet manifold gasket
4x zaust manifold gaskets (they come seperate)
8x Copper zaust manifold nuts
Some zust manifold studs depending if any shear/come out with the nuts
Timing belt & tensioner (matched to whatever block you are using)
Solid rubber 16v/G60 rear mount (stronger)
Synta Silver/Fuchs Titan 10w40 oil & quality oil filter
Sachs clutch kit
Gearbox input shaft seal, push rod bush & seal
Recommended bits:
Solid rubber 1.3/16v gearbox & front engine mounts
New alternator/pas etc belts
New metal coolant pipe
Thermostat & seal
Spark plugs, rotor arm & dizzy cap, air & fuel filters etc
Rubber cam cover gasket kit
Plastic coolant flanges that attach to the head
Gearbox release bearing & end cap
once done it should look something like this, you might want to clean yours
