Author Topic: Pre Remap Advice  (Read 1522 times)

Offline Dalo Harkin

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Pre Remap Advice
« on: 19 August 2009, 08:49 »
Hi all,

I will be having a remap very shortly performed by R Tec - (not booked it yet, had to delay it around a month ago as the timing belt was not in good shape  :cry:)
I just wanted to know if there was like a pre checklist before having it done:-
So far I will have done
Timing belt...check
Service....check (plugs, oil filter, oil)
uprated brakes (good idea IMO  :grin:)
0007P DV

anything else or can I book?
ARZ K03s, Oettinger Side Skirts, R32 front, Carbon stage 2, Forge 007p (yellow spring), Forge Actuator (yellow spring), Pipercross panel filter with DSG parts, N249 and N112 deleted, SAI deleted, Carbon canister deleted, Rear wiper deleted, Long Life turbo back custom exhaust with 200 cell sports cat, VR6/G60 clutch kit, Creation Motorsport TIP, Catch can, 'Wellycooler', K04 charge pipe, S3 ported inlet manifold - looks pretty standard on the outside though :)

Offline Rhyso

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Re: Pre Remap Advice
« Reply #1 on: 19 August 2009, 08:59 »
i will do a checklist for people at some point but off the top of my head.. and in this order..

fault code check/clear
quick test drive
check fault codes again and investigate issues flagged up (may involve another test drive/data logging)
then if that all works out..
engine cover off, check all parts are connected as they should be
test the dv for leaks
check all hoses for splits where possible (particularly around the breathers and vac pipes) and the 'tell-tale' oily buildup at connections which indicates blowing under load - tighten up or replace clips if needed
get under the car and check the pipework to the intercooler and the joins on the pancake pipe.. if its done at the workshop we send it up in the air on the ramps and check pretty much everything from exhaust to bushes and offer advice where needed

then if all seems good the map can be flashed to the ecu after taking a backup of the original file incase it's needed.

then another test drive/fault check procedure... it's usually at that point the DV gets replaced with a known working one


most common ones are faulty MAF (doesnt always throw a code but i can tell when it's gone usually), coil packs, leaking DV, loose pipework to the intercooler, split vac line which can take forever to trace, and today's favourite was a perished 'Y' shape breather that comes out the top of the cam cover. Mine has a tiny hole in it but the customer's car today was broken in 3 places.. all the way down to where it exits the block by the dipstick! ... grazed knuckles again for me :grin:


:afro: