GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: paultownsend on 14 December 2008, 19:27
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as above.
can my 8v downpipe bolt up to the abf manifold? i already use a 1cm spacer plate on my 2.0 8v conversion and i have no clearence issues from the tall block. it'll make life easier when joining up to my exhaust system. also, i assume a lambda sensor hole needs to be welded in?
Paul
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(http://diamondhell.com/images/rsgallery/original/P6030080.jpg)
One we made arrr-selves.
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one you made a for a syncro...
you 'should' be fine with the 8 valve downpipe, but a 16v will obviously flow better. the standard ABF manifold is pretty efficient as it is.
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(http://diamondhell.com/images/rsgallery/original/P6030080.jpg)
One we made arrr-selves.
i would have thought thats where the extra few bhp comes from, not from the abf management :tongue:
thats a nicely designed manifold
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or i could use the abf manifold, downpipe and a de-cat pipe? or reducer!
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thats a nicely designed manifold
now its been called everything
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you dont think so? it looks a bit thrown together but i bet it flows well. not sure why the lambda is where it is though?
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where is the lamdba hole ??
i cant see it :shocked: am i blind :huh: :huh:
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OEM fitment you have 3 choices
1. Use your old 8v downpipe, 16v manifold: Bore isnt as big as a 16v on the end but will save you buying a new exhaust system! 8v system is 2", 16v is 2.25".
2. MK2 16v manifold/downpipe: direct fit, no knocking but you'll need a 16v system to fit to it or a reducer. Main issue with 16v downpipe is it has the resonator box which wont fit thru the gap without droppin subframe or pulling the steering rack forward.
3. G60 downpipe/cat bypass, 16v manifold: Direct fit to a std MK2 16v zaust system, will fit thru the gap easy peasy.
Options 1 & 2 need a lambda bung welding in, G60 cat bypass pipe will come with one already fitted :)
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where is the lamdba hole ??
i cant see it am i blind
It's in the cross-piece.
I did it that way, because that's how VW fit the lambda in the G60 downpipe. Fitting it this way ensures it's sampling the mix from all four pots, rather than not knowing if any of them go lean.
The tubular manifold *was* a declared mod on that dyno plot :tongue: Also, if it was running on a certain mechanical injection system, that wouldn't be able to compensate like the Digi 3.2 does, so the argument still stands.
Having seen the restrictive standard set up off an ABF/KR/PB etc I think a wrapped tubular manifold would be one of the best investments in a 16V motor that one could make. The motor wants to flow, so let it - the exhaust manifold is the answer to that flow issue.
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i get what your saying about getting a reading for all four cylinders but why didnt you put it a bit further down where it goes from 2 to 1? there would be no need for that bridging piece then
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Cos where it is, it's out of harms way.
Also, if it's good enough for VAG, it's probably good enough for me.
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putting it further down would have also meant it would have been pokeing out the side, where it is inbetween the two pipes in the bridge means that it's incontact with hot exhaust gas but also out the way of the main flow, also the sensor is actualy sheilded by the exhaust from getting beaten in the event of falling off the track. and at the time it looked like an optimal location as it's easy to get the wire there as well
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Quick hi jack. Ive got a 4 branch manifold which im hoping to put on my ABF conversion, if there is clearance issues with it is it possible to put spacers between the body and subframe to lower it a bit?. Secondly if I can't do this can I use the seat toledo manifold and down pipe with a decat pipe and my miltec exhaust. ta very much :smiley:
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Quick hi jack. Ive got a 4 branch manifold which im hoping to put on my ABF conversion, if there is clearance issues with it is it possible to put spacers between the body and subframe to lower it a bit?.
technicaly yes as thats what the golf country did but it really isn't an optimal solution, most tubular manifolds fit without issue, the ABF block is only 16mm higher so if you have more than say 30mm clearnace now and use some good engine mouts you wont have a problem
Secondly if I can't do this can I use the seat toledo manifold and down pipe with a decat pipe and my miltec exhaust. ta very much :smiley:
yes
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Some have had success by tiping the engine back with washers under the front engine mount bracket, but that didnt help on james' car. The phirm chopped & rewelded the rear engine bracket which gave the desired clearance. However I since found a much easier solution, if you use the old 8v mount and the bracket on the subframe you can spin the subframe mount round 180 degrees, then drill another hole in it a bit lower down, this drops the engine nicely.