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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: TheRaven on 16 October 2008, 11:19
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Guys you gotta help me
Got a 1991 Mk 2, 2 door, 1.3, 125000+ miles.
Every time i hit a junction or try to pull of it just cuts out.
Took it the carage thinking it was the carb, but no.
They took the carb out, cleaned it, and the air filter, cleaned the sparks and the distributor, replaced 2 of the cables to the sparks.
Also jet washed the pistons.
It was brilliant, for about 2 days now its doing the same? I've been told it could be the air filter and it just needs a good service.
I don't wanna waste any more money until I know what it is.
Have any of you had the same problem or got any ideas?
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I'd be checking all the vacum hoses first off and then getting the timing and fuelling checked out.
Nick
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Took it the carage thinking it was the carb, but no.
They .....
Also jet washed the pistons.
I may well be a bit thick in saying this, but what do you mean by that?
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I'd be checking all the vacum hoses first off and then getting the timing and fuelling checked out.
Nick
Agreed, and you might as well get it serviced, unless you have proof of a recent service.
How did they jet wash the pistsons? :huh:
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They said that they took them off and jet washed them through?
And I meant Garage lol!
Someone has suggested Redex? Any thoughts?
Also there is no proof of a recent service.
Wht would they do in a service? I think my revs are down and my fuel is not coming through fast enough. WOuld they sort this for me?
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They said that they took them off and jet washed them through?
Really? I suspect they told you something else and you're confused as "taking them off" would involve stripping the engine down to it's componant parts. So either they told you one thing and you confused what they said or they're spinning you a load of BS.
And I meant Garage lol!
Someone has suggested Redex? Any thoughts?
Running some redex cleaner through certainly won't do any harm and may help a little. Take off the air filter and spray some directly into the inlet while someone stamps on the throttle. You'll get loads of smoke but don't be frightened, keep it revving it till the smoke clears. Put some in the petrol to (following the instrucions on the bottle).
Also there is no proof of a recent service.
Wht would they do in a service?
New plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotory arm, ar filter, oil change, brake fluid change, check timing and fuelling and give the car a once over for things like brake pads, discs, rubber bushes etc.
I think my revs are down and my fuel is not coming through fast enough. WOuld they sort this for me?
SO when idling does it feel like it want's to stall all the time?
Nick
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Yes, It rumbles and shakes like its gonna stall but then kinda revs itself a bit to keep it going? If you get what I mean.
And cheers guys I will try all of this! :wink:
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Sounds like it needs a decent "tune up". Try looking up local VW specialists in your area and get them to quote to correctly setting the timing and fuelling. I would bet that sorts it or at the least improves it loads.
nick
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Iv'e found a guy that will come out and tune it for £50? Hows that sound?
Whats involved in the tuning and service?
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There is something sort of similar to jetwashing the pistons, by putting one of the vaccum hoses into a glass of water so it de-carbs the top of the pistons and the top of the head. Don't know if they meant that or not though?
Rubjohnny has a right up about it somewhere.
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still running a piersh!t carb?
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£50 sounds good.
For a tune up they should be checking the timing against factory spec which is adjusting when the spark plugs fire. Too early or too late cause rough running and idle problems or in the extreme melted engine components. He should be doing this with a timing strobe gun and following the way VW recomend you do it (Not sure if these carb engines have any quirks when timing them.) He should then sick a tester up your exhuast and measure the co2 output and adjust the ratio of fuel to air on the carb so that the engine is getting the optimum mixture.
For a service they should do what I listed in one of the posts above.
Nick
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Yea that sounds like it, his actuall words were *weve washed the jets through*
?? :undecided:
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Yea that sounds like it, his actuall words were *weve washed the jets through*
?? :undecided:
That'll be carb jets then i would have thought?
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That sounds more like they cleaned the carb jets out.
Edit: Damn you chris and your lightening reply skills!
Nick
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Right OK, now I will get this guy to come and service it, put some redex in it.
?still running a piersh!t carb?
By the way I have no idea what carb it is, although it is the original? Does that mean anything to you?
I know the polos, golf and jettas of that era had sh!tty outsourced carbs made and fitted.
But the guy at the garage said the carb is fine?
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i had a problem similar with my 1.3, check the auto choke fuse (no.17), its the one place no-one ever checks first always looking for the big problems first
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i had a problem similar with my 1.3, check the auto choke fuse (no.17), its the one place no-one ever checks first always looking for the big problems first
Ok, so where is this and how do I do it?
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Putting Redex in is easy peasy as putting fuel in :grin: Next time you FILL your tank put in the recommended amount of Redex in, which is usually 1/2 bottle to a FULL tank if it's the 250ml bottle.
Also try running Tesco 99 ron through, when I use that it makes my car so nice and steady and does not feel 'jumpy' when crawling at 1mph
You probably still have the Pierburg car fitted, they are apparently really bad :rolleyes: People replace them with the weber carbs
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Don't double post. ta
Edit: Sorry for the delay, some of us have to work for a living :wink:
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If it runs ok on a run, but just cuts out or loses power when accelerating or pulling away, I would suspect the accelerator pump is getting lazy. This is either a mechanical or vacuum operated little pump within the carb that injects neat fuel into the throat of the venturi to prevent a lean cut during heavy throttle applications. A carb repair kit should have the parts included to repair this.
But get the ignition timing checked first.
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Errrr doesn't this sound like the old waxstat problem.......
Tom
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Errrr doesn't this sound like the old waxstat problem.......
Tom
Dare I ask what this is?
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Here ya go:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=67755.0
Nick
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Errrr doesn't this sound like the old waxstat problem.......
Tom
Have checked this out, the choke and everything is working fine!!
But guys... this is the strange thing, had the bonnet up last night and it was ticking over, sprayed WD40 into the top of the carb a few times and it was sweet as a nut for a few mins.
Did this a few times, went for a drive and it was no different, however, drove her to work this morning and she was brill!!!
Any ideas?
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Errrr doesn't this sound like the old waxstat problem.......
Tom
I dont think the pierburg 2E3 as fitted to the 1.3 has the waxstat, it's just part of the 2E2 as found on the 1.6
Raven, regardless of whether the carb is in good order or not I would thoroughly recommend you to try and find a weber to fit. I slapped one on my 1.3 rat hack and even with 190k on the clock it runs like a dream. Always idles perfectly regardless of temperature, has never cutout and it's made it reasonably quick. Combine a weber with a thorough service and I think you'll be laughing.
The carb you need is a weber 32dmtr which is unfortunately obsolete now so it's time to scour ebay and the forums. Occasionally a new old stock one will come up on ebay but be prepared to pay a lot of money. I got my secondhand one off a user on this forum for £50ish (can't remember).
Good luck
Edit: here ya go this one might still be available:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=92548.0
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Webers are over rated for what you pay for them.
I've not had much trouble with my Pierburg carb, on the RARE occasion the car takes 2 or 3 times to start when it's absolutely f**king cold.
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Webers are over rated for what you pay for them.
I've not had much trouble with my Pierburg carb, on the RARE occasion the car takes 2 or 3 times to start when it's absolutely f**king cold.
See mine starts everysingle time, no matter what!
Just loses power at low revs?
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get a tin of carb cl,eaner and spray that into the top of the carb, wd40 is next to useless at cleaning anything.
could it be carb icing, is the warm air pipe present and connected to the metal shroud on the manifold, and does the warm airt flap in the airbox open when engine is running?
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yea, everything like that is in working order, Im thinking it might just be some this working its way around the engine?
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could it be carb icing, is the warm air pipe present and connected to the metal shroud on the manifold, and does the warm airt flap in the airbox open when engine is running?
i drove my 1.3 throughout last winter without these on the car as i dont like them, it ran fine
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could it be carb icing, is the warm air pipe present and connected to the metal shroud on the manifold, and does the warm airt flap in the airbox open when engine is running?
i drove my 1.3 throughout last winter without these on the car as i dont like them, it ran fine
Is that possible?
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could it be carb icing, is the warm air pipe present and connected to the metal shroud on the manifold, and does the warm airt flap in the airbox open when engine is running?
i drove my 1.3 throughout last winter without these on the car as i dont like them, it ran fine
Is that possible?
Yes, but if it's too cold the car won't like it and either won't start properly or will be quite lumpy from what I've heard. Fortunately my car does not suffer this because I have the hoses all connected :grin: and my Pierburg carb seems fine.
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Going back to buying a second hand carb, don't buy one that has been lying around for ages unless you are prepared to fit a repair kit. I don't know anything about these carbs, but carbs in general...yes. If there are any diaphrams in a carb, these, unless they are brand new, need to be kept wet with fuel. If they dry out, they will crumble away and the carb will not work.
You mentioned that you squirted WD40 down the throat of the carb and this made it run better. This indicated to me that you could be running a little lean, thus when you use power, you are nearly getting a lean cut. My advice to you is get the car into a tuning shop and get the ignition, spark plugs and emmissions sorted out. If there is still a problem then you may be into component changes,..ie, carb. :smiley: