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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: ywouldi on 16 May 2004, 22:30
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Hi all, new here!
I have a 1990 1.3l Golf that stalls at idle after its warmed up.
I have:-
Checked Vacuum Hoses to airbox
Checked solenoid on Carb is clicking
Checked carb is earthed
The lights on the dash (backlighting) seem to flicker at idle and the engine doesnt run roughly, but its not smooth, if you know what I mean. This (mainly flicking lights) makes me think its the voltage regulator. My side-kick mechanic reckons I should wack uo the idle speed as is sounds slow at the mo.
Any ideas would be appreciated folks!
Ben
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yo there,
i sorta have the same prob, and have always assumed it had somthing to do with my alternator (which needs replacing), as the lights on mine are always flickering.... doubt that helps u at all, but if you find out wat the problem is, then message me it would help me solve my current problems...! cheers
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might be worth getting ur battery tested before u change the altenator, normally free to be done. might be worth to see if u battery is ok first as my lights flickered due to nackered battery once
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i know exactly what you mean! i drive an '87 1.3c and it likes to stall 5-10 minutes into a journey! Havent got a clue what it is. . . . . . still working on it
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My car stalls after warm up when i dip the clutch sometimes. The lights dont flicker though, i also know that mine is carb-icing. Could be that on yours? What weather does it do it in? All weather?
If it is battery related have you checked the fan belt? Could be loose?
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Thanks for your replys,
Doesnt seem to be doing it at the mo, ran it for ages and it seemed OK. Fan belt is brand new and plenty tight enough so it cant be that.
Carb Icing - Dunno if its that, I have a pipe going from the exhaust manifold to the hot air input on the airbox. The manifold cover thingy is missig but the pipe still gets plenty of hot air. Would this help or is it a complete different thing?
Maybe when I took the airbox of and put it back on i inadvertently fixed it! You know how these things happen.
Ben
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If it was carb-icing that wouldn't actually help all that much. You have two air intakes, one hot, one cold. When the engine gets warmer a flap closes and the air supply changes from the hot, to the cold. Therefore if they're both hot, carb-icing is reduced significantly. Problem is though, hot air takes up less space than cold air, so you have a fuel rich mixture, resulting in less mpg. Thats the reason the flap is there, to have cold air. In the summer its fine, but in winter often the air is too cold, cooling down the fuel (hence carb ICING), so you have an air rich mixture, which often results in stalling.
Does this all make sense? Hope it helps.
On some cars the flap isn't controlled by the engine heat, but by the driver manually under the bonnet, by summer/winter settings.
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Right, that made sense! ;)
So maybe running a pipe from the cold air intake past the exhaust manifold might cure the icing, if it is that! But then that obviously would affect the MPG, but as its mainly town driving I do at the mo that wouldnt bother me, as long as it kept running, it is both dangerous and more importantly embarrasing to a lad about the town like me :P . How am I meant to pull the chicks when I have to keep re-starting!!
Ben
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You won't get carb icing this time of year ;)
Have you checked all the vacuum hoses that go into the carb? if any are worn then replace.
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if it was carb icing the car would generally act like a kangeroo on speed before cuting out. :o
have the carb checked. the original peirberg is sh!te and should be relaced with the weber unit.
i had the problem where by my 1300 would drive for about 2 miles cut out but restart after about 15 secs. after a full service i changed the coil which cured the problem.
hope this helps :)
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It doesn't nesecarily do that, sometimes driving fine, then foot on clutch and, bang.. dead. No slowing to a stall, just straight out. And it does sometimes carb ice a little at this time of year!
Any way, i don't think that sounds like carb icing, was just saying that come october sort of time, its worth noting that if it stalls when its cool or damp, it could be that. Oddly if its really cold, it doesn't seem to do it??!! In answer to your question, yes, just extend the cold air pipe down to your exhaust manifold, near to the hot air intake. I suppose you could always do it now and see if it cures it, but as mentioned it shouldn't do it like hardly at all at this time of year, so if it is that.... New carb? Like said, replace the 2E2 unit with the manual choke twin carb Weber. Won't ever do it again, cos you just leave the choke on.
Finally you might not have to get the idle speed changed, i think they all run REALLY slow, almost sounds like it would stall, but it doesn't.... mostly!
Hope this all helps, and check the voltage regulator too...