GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: rustynuts on 03 May 2004, 23:06
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Not been a good weekend.
Firstly tried to change the manifold to downpipe gasket. 6th nut would not come off >:(. So gave up on that and tried to sort out the slight leak i had coming from the flange where the water pipe comes out of the side of the head to go to the heater matrix. I tightened it up initially to find that the water leak became more prominant. So took it off and put it back on 3 or 4 times to try and sort the problem. However what must have been the 4th attempt the lower bolt sheered.
There appeared to be not enough bolt to get some mole grips onto so i tried drilling it out. Was difficult as it was not a clean break and meant i could not get the desired angle. Therefore i am stuck now without a secure water system and unable to use the Mk2.
I am considering whether there are any adhesives or silicons out there that will be tough enough to prevent leaking and also tough enough to hold the flange on when up to pressure with just the single remaining bolt. I bloody hope so as I am not willing to spend the money to have the head removed as the engine is 170k old and its just not worth throwing money at it.
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Hello mate,
Is there anything left of the stud?
the only thing i can suggest is to drill a small hole in middle of the stud and wind an easyout into it.
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The stud is sheared, the end is not flat so very difficult to center punch to drill out. So having looked at my options i am going to redrill the head and with a new flange drill that in a different position. Should allow me to get the right amount of force and I am sure with the aid of some gasket sealant i will be there hopefully. :-\
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Try the easyout route.
I had a similar problem with a water pump bolt, worked a treated, takes a bit of patience ;)
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The stud is sheared, the end is not flat so very difficult to center punch to drill out. So having looked at my options i am going to redrill the head and with a new flange drill that in a different position. Should allow me to get the right amount of force and I am sure with the aid of some gasket sealant i will be there hopefully. :-\
Be very careful as the bolt will be harder than the head. Very very easy to go off centre and then you will be in trouble.
Vr6's suggestion is worth a go, but again, be very careful not to snap the easy-out BTDT >:(
There is something else you could consider. I forget what the process is called, hopefully someone will know. You can have it electrically removed via some welding type process that will remove just the steel of the bolt and leave the head and threads perfectly intact.......but damned if I can remember what the process is called........it'll come to me later I'm sure.
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Spark erosion think, needs the head off to do >:(. I have removed broken bolts by MIG welding thru the centre of a washer onto the top of the stud, then welding a nut to the washer. (the heat usually helps to loosen the stud). Usual welding precautions apply ;).
Steve.
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Spark erosion..........came to me this afternoon........Steve you beat me too it ;)........I'm sure that can be done 'in-situ'..........a neighbour of mine paid some mobile guy to come out and do it.
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I have drilled a hole now and to be honest its not worked. Head now scrap (well prob was anyway) so here comes project G60 a little earlier than planned.
Now want a 16v to run around in as the Mk1 is far too unrefined for daily use ;)
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do this....
go to Argos and buy a 'dremell' hobby tool. its got all the bits that should get that broken bit out.
then return the f**kker :D
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Too late I am afraid, I have drilled extra holes in the head and basically now taken it beyond return. Anyway, means I can start the project now. Will take my time over it and return it back to the road meaner and quicker with that distinctive howl of a supercharger ;D
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i had the same fault with my mk3 gti. when i bought it in january there was a water leak on the side of the water flange. i removed it and put it back on with some cheap instant gasket (which i found to be too weak) and it didn't work. then i tried again with a stronger instant gasket (which still didnt work). so then i bought a tube of gasket that says it is strong enough to use as a head gasket, so tried taking it off again, but this time the top bolt snapped as i was taking it off, not leaving enough thread to grip with anything. so the drill was straight out. but i must have drilled off centre and when i got the bolt out i realised the hole that was left was bigger than the bolt and there was no thread left. so temporarily i used the new gasket i got, secured the bottom bolt in, and used the strap i found in the side of my boot (i think its there to keep the toolkit(or something) secured in the side of the boot) to pull the water flange up and fastened it round the back of the carb. i then done a 200 mile round trip and it was still fine. but as i dont have the money for a decent engine change yet i'm going to get some thread bolt with no head, stick it into the hole in the head with quicksteel, replace the flange and just stick a nut on the top end. Oh what fun!
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once you buggerd it you can use the last resort,
drill out hole in head and tap it.
take a bolt the suits tapped thread and drill a small hole down the center of it ( to suit tap for bolt that you'll be useing to fasten whatever )
tap the insert you have just made
cut down bolt and thrad into the insert, apply threadlock to outside of inswrt ansscrew into head useing head of bolt thats int he insert,
allow threadlock to cure and remove bolt form insert.