GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: cняis on 13 May 2008, 22:07
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Right then...!
A few of you might recall my problems with the project golf. its an early 89 digi gti, so has the earlier wiring (hazard switch on dash) and square expansion tank.
In a nutshell:
- Dry stored for 2 years, never fired up within this time. When it was stored it was a runner.
- Got the car in December, new battery fitted and it fired up for the first time in January, ran for 20 mins no problems. :smiley:
- 3 weeks later tried starting it again, and it fires but stalls when the key is returned to position 2. :angry:
- Replaced the ignition switch and will no longer fire at all, just turns over and smells of fuel, sometimes backfires whilst turning over. :angry: :angry:
- April comes along. Cleaned up all earth points and double checked all wiring for breakage etc, still wont fire at all.
This evening i've been a busy boy:
- Tried starting ot on the off chance and again it will fire as long as the key is held in position 3 (starter winding over). Release it to pos 2 and it stalls instantly.
- Swapped ignition module, then the whole ECU, from my daily to the project
- Swapped the MAF from the daily to the project
- Swapped the HT leads from the daily to the project
And.... still nothing! :angry: :angry: :angry:
Now im seriously fed up. I have the suspicion it may be timing related, perhaps the belt is worn and slipped around a tooth or so.
Luckily the GF works with the wife of a VW/Audi tuning specialist (does superchips, engine tuning and MOTs), so i shall now be (begrudgingly!) getting the pro's in. ive had enough but i wont be eaten.
Until he finds the time to look at the car, anything else u should be checking? something else i should note is that about half the time the fuel pump wont prime. but its getting fuel as i can smell a little bit of petrol and it occasionally backfires.
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get a new ignition coil, or even a recon. or try the one from the daily.
timing wouldnt explain why it stalls when returned to position 2. So its definitly electric. as i said, try the ignition coil.
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this is the thing that the king HT lead goes into by the expansion tank yes?
please excuse my ignorance as im very much learning as i go along!
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spot on there. Try replacing it with your daily's coil to cut down the list.
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spot on there. Try replacing it with your daily's coil to cut down the list.
thanks
how much ball ache is it to remove? i know the wiring and plumbing for the heater is a bit tight around there
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What happens if you start it and put your foot on the throttle a little bit.
Mine was off the road 7 years before i got it and it started and stalled. If i put my foot on the throttle a bit it was ok. Adjusted dizzy and it ran ok since.
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spot on there. Try replacing it with your daily's coil to cut down the list.
thanks
how much ball ache is it to remove? i know the wiring and plumbing for the heater is a bit tight around there
no idea never removed or replaced mine.
dubvrs' advice seems pretty good. Have you tried starting it with the throttle pressed down?
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spot on there. Try replacing it with your daily's coil to cut down the list.
thanks
how much ball ache is it to remove? i know the wiring and plumbing for the heater is a bit tight around there
no idea never removed or replaced mine.
dubvrs' advice seems pretty good. Have you tried starting it with the throttle pressed down?
yes i've tried this :wink:
it will rev up but stall as soon as the ignition key is returned to position 2. it was suggested i changed the ignition switch, which i have and its still the same.
maybe its a relay or something?
i hate being such a noob! :cry:
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could be a relay. No idea though. I think you should leave it to the experts. It may cost money but it saves you alot of time and hassle.
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could be a relay. No idea though. I think you should leave it to the experts. It may cost money but it saves you alot of time and hassle.
true enough.
i was really hoping it was going to be a simple project, with it running fine before storage.
but currently it is going nowhere and has mot MOT.
PLUS the gear linkages have just gone VERY sloppy all of a sudden...
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have you put new petrol in her too? it goes off after time
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yep it had about 1/4 of a tank when i got the car, this would have been 2 years old. i have a jerry can with fresh stuff in, about 1 litre or so, so i chucked that in. perhaps i need some more fuel....
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in the scuttle have you got two small 2 pin connectors on the passenger side (1 black, 1 white) or a 5 pin connector on the drivers side next to the ecu? let me know and ill tell you what the wires do and how to test them as it sounds ecu power related! :wink:
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in the scuttle have you got two small 2 pin connectors on the passenger side (1 black, 1 white) or a 5 pin connector on the drivers side next to the ecu? let me know and ill tell you what the wires do and how to test them as it sounds ecu power related! :wink:
i will have a search and find out!
i know the daily (with the later wiring) has an extra connector block next to the ECU, which the project doesnt have. its more than 5 pins IIRC :undecided:
the two plugs which go into the ECU are the same on both cars (hence me swapping the ECU's and ignition modules over)
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Have you had the cap off the dizzi to check the rotor arm and the cap condition?
Have you checked, taken off and wire-brushed up the earths in the engine bay? This includes the battery earth, the other end that goes to the gearbox and the earth off the back of the head.
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If the engine starts and then stops when the ignition key is sprung back to run position, it still sounds like ignition switch, even though you have changed this. Check on the back of the switch for a soldered dry joint or broken wire. other than that, it could also be a relay of some sort. Try the fuel pump relay. If there is a strong smell of fuel, then the fuel pump relay could be stuck in the on position thus the fuel pump is delivering too much fuel for the engine to handle.
Take the cap off the oil filler and have a sniff for petrol. If it is over fuelling, you may have fuel mixing with the oil as it runs past the pistons. This will give you a clue as to what is going on. Once the car is going, go for a drive but be carefull with the throttle. Fuel in the oil is ok and a run will make it evaporate away. But as I said, initially be carefull with the throttle as the oil viscocity will be reduced.
(Oil dillution with fuel is used in some aircraft piston engines in very cold climates to ease slow cranking problems caused by freezing cold oil.)
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Have you had the cap off the dizzi to check the rotor arm and the cap condition?
Have you checked, taken off and wire-brushed up the earths in the engine bay? This includes the battery earth, the other end that goes to the gearbox and the earth off the back of the head.
ive not touch the dizzi cap in fear of putting it back incorrectly, but i guess tippex would sort that out?
ALL the earths have been done with emery tape, all nice and shiny.
If the engine starts and then stops when the ignition key is sprung back to run position, it still sounds like ignition switch, even though you have changed this. Check on the back of the switch for a soldered dry joint or broken wire. other than that, it could also be a relay of some sort. Try the fuel pump relay. If there is a strong smell of fuel, then the fuel pump relay could be stuck in the on position thus the fuel pump is delivering too much fuel for the engine to handle.
Take the cap off the oil filler and have a sniff for petrol. If it is over fuelling, you may have fuel mixing with the oil as it runs past the pistons. This will give you a clue as to what is going on. Once the car is going, go for a drive but be carefull with the throttle. Fuel in the oil is ok and a run will make it evaporate away. But as I said, initially be carefull with the throttle as the oil viscocity will be reduced.
(Oil dillution with fuel is used in some aircraft piston engines in very cold climates to ease slow cranking problems caused by freezing cold oil.)
thanks for the info. the steering column is still in bits so i may look at another switch, i dont think i'll be driving it too soon as i think the gearbox linkages have now gone. the gearstick will engage in 2 or 4 gears but its so loose and vague :undecided: another thing to sort out!
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ive not touch the dizzi cap in fear of putting it back incorrectly, but i guess tippex would sort that out?
If you take it off and look at it you'll see there is only one way of putting it back on - it has grooves that mean it can only ever go on in one position - the timing is set on the dizzi body.
The only thing you need to leave connected are the HT leads to the plugs. Either that, or write the cylinder numbers on the cap with permanent pen (or tippex). Doing that means you'll get the leads on in the right order, but you'll look a bit of a numpty (don't worry - mine has numbers on it).
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About the gear linkeage. Look to see if the 'rubber ball' is present within the gear linkeage behind the engine. If the car has been stood for so long, this may have perished and when you start using the gears again afetr a length of time, the ball can break up. Easy to replace.
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About the gear linkeage. Look to see if the 'rubber ball' is present within the gear linkeage behind the engine. If the car has been stood for so long, this may have perished and when you start using the gears again afetr a length of time, the ball can break up. Easy to replace.
thanks for that, ive replaced this before on the daily, a user on here does the nylon version which is a bit better than OE.
i shall have a look, as it was fine when the car was dropped off in january - and it hasnt gone anywhere since!!