GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: golfvr6 on 20 April 2004, 17:34
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Does anyone have any tips for removing the allen key bolts that hold on the rear brake caliper carrier?
The car is a 94 vr6, the bolts have been on a long time and have just rusted away.
I have tried allen key socket, splined socket, banging a socket over the top and heat, all have failed.
Any ideas?
Can i get an AF or female torx bit that will fit tighter over the bolt?
Cheers.
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Get a damn good set of mole grips and a lump hammer - that's what I done on my mk2. ;)
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Tried that one, no joy >:(
I got one out , it seems to have locking fluid on it.
Gaybar.
Anyone else?
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I know what you mean >:(.
You will have to heat the calliper frame around the part where the bolt is threaded in, if the Allen key part is rounded out use a pair of good vice grips on the head of the bolt. Get one bolt out and you can start to move the frame to break the other bolt loose. I had a Audi 80 that I had to drill the heads off the Allen bolts (not as hard as it sounds) then hold the stub of bolt in the vice so it could be unscrewed, good luck.
Steve.
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An update, got the job done yesterday.
A 15mm hexagon socket (not female spline type) fits flush over the bolts.
Undo the bottom bolt with the 15mm socket banged over the bolt.
For the top bolt, unbolt the shock absorber, move out of the way, bang bolt on as far as it will go (won't go on fully on ABS cars as sensor gets in the way), undo the bolt as you get someone to bang the bracket upwards with a hammer.
I hope that helps others with the same problem!
:)
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if all else fails try welding an old socket to the head of the bolt. Sounds extreme but works in a pinch.
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yeah that was suggested to me, unfortunately i do not have access to that sort of equipment.
also i wouldn't fancy welding next to the fuel filler neck and tank :D
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pussy ;)
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f*g**t ;)
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;D!
i did my rear brakes (pads and drums) wheel bearing and rear shocks in just over three hours today!
the old shocks went down and wouldnt come up again. one of them even sunk when fully extended you didnt even have to push it! :o
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Pads and drums ? ???
I take it the bolts came off alright then?
I've never had a problem getting them out on mk2s, but i've done 2 mk3s and they didn't want to move!
Did you do it all on your own?
How did you get the rear struts out?
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rear discs. i took off the caliper by undoing the two bolts and the handbrake. the bolts were tight but ok. then i took of the carrier. this was a b!tch but luckily the allen bolts were ok. then i undid the wheel bearing bolt removed the thrust washer and then pulled the disc off. drifted new bearing races into new discs then put bearings in put thrust washer in and bolted it up till i could only just move the wheel then backed it off till it didnt drag. put the split pin in and then the cover. reassembled caliper with new pads and repeted on other side.
shocks.
undid all top fixing while my bro held the beam under the car. then undid the bottom bolts, supported beam on trollry jack. took apart shocks put springs and new bump thingys on new shockers, put back in and tightened with the weight on. only help i had was my bro helping me locate the bolts to put the shocks onto the beam.
then adjusted handbrake and put interior trim back. gonna do froints tomorrow
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how did you get the struts off the car?
did you take the bottom bolt out of both shocks at the same time? or did you take one off at a time?
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i got ya
so u dropped the whole axle in one go,
i was just interested as gettin the rear struts out is infact very difficult when only lowering the axle one side at a time.
3 hours is pretty good, the disks are fairly easy to replace if the carrier bolts come out!
renewing the discs at the same time as the bearings is always a good idea, as this will save time drifting the old bearings out of the old disc.
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i supported the bar then undid the bolts one at a time then lowered the bar till it was clear of the shocks. then i undid all the bolts uptop and my bro caught them down below
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Did that work alright?
I was gonna do that the last time i done the job, but was worried i might strain the brake hoses :D
Just one more question!
How come you paid me to service your car and change the cam belt 6 months ago?
You seem to know what you are doing ???
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cos i was having back problems (again) and dint want to do it. plus i had the money.
the suspension thing works aslong as you dont let the beam drop cos it could snag the hoses i suppose or damage the bushings. the calipers etc are all attacehd to the trailing arm so its ok from that point of view.
it can be done one man but is easier and safer with two. you only need two people for about 10 mins tho, aslong as thebeam i supported its alright. also helps to have someone hold the shocks up so you can get a bolt on them uptop.
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yeah doing the shocks one side at a time is hard cos you have to force the beam down. i learnt this from my other golfs. i had never done the rear discs or pads before and was surprised how easy it was. quite a few bits to connect/remove/drift in etc tho
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i wouldnt let the beam swing free tho
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If you want back problems try removing the suspension on an Audi :D you know the red quattro i was working on the other week when you come round.
Or try working on the complete strut/wheel hub assembly like the ones found on early polos.
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yeah gaybar isnt the word. shocks and brakes on a mk2 is a piece of piss just time consuming. im gonna do the fronts (shocks and brakes) 2moro and top mounts
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oh yeah the only thing is that the brakes have to be pumped to pick up the slack on the rear calipers or your handbrake wont work ;D
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i did screw them in all the way tho ???
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How long do you reckon it will take?
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gonna do it all at once so prob an hour each side for the brakes and prob an hour or so to do the shocks prop[erly. thats if it all comes apart frst time. maybe 4 - 5 hours all in
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You got all the tools?
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yeah all except a caliper wind back tool but i got a g clamp i have used before. got spring compressors to
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The nut on the top of the suspension in the engine bay can be awkward.
A g-clamp is fine for front calipers.
I take it you use the wind back tool for the rear calipers.
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oh yeah i was gonna ask you if i can borrow the notched tool for undoing that nut. i got one but dont yet know if it fits. the rear calipers you have to screw back in with angled pliers ??? but i screwed the piston round and round then pushed it back by hand, i kept doing that till it was flush with the housing
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Apart from a job well done, i won't mention him starting the car to pump the brakes, with it still in gear, on axle stands ::) ::) ::)
Oooooooo-soooooo close to it falling back onto the reart axle, and me!!! ::) ::)
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You got lucky with those rear calipers mate.
Usually the piston gets stuck and its impossible to do it with pliers.
I got the wind back tool from Halfords, definately a good investment ;)
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Saying that, i did use pliers on a renault laguna rear brake calipers, but then the car was only a few years old at the time, so no seized pistons! :D
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errr yeah.........lets skip over that bit.
tha calipers were a b!tch to get moving but then they were ok after that
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did the rears pads tonight on the vr6........ there the later pistons the circlip ones not the 12mm allenkey!
it took ages we have had to make a tool for it.....
got a socket and grinded bits out of each side so its got 2 little bits there.... so this then sticks in the piston and turns it back in... it kept coming out...........
you need a pro vw tool but i suspect they dont fit right!
we also had to undo the bleen nipple and that mad eit alot easier to get the piston back in it was still hard though!
we also took the floating bolts out as both bottom ones were stuck....... took them out give them a wipe a smear of grease on them and put them back in.... they slide / float perfect........
just got to take it out for a spin in a bit........
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The backwinding tool is readily available in most motor factors. Its hard to do the job without it.
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My rear brakes seized on my vr6, Thought it was the pistons seizing but it wernt, just the amount of sh!t built up behind the little rubber seal on the handbrake lever on rear of caliper. Stripped the lot n cleaned it all up, copper slip lubed the sliders and no probs to report.
Heat is the best option if you have ought seized, expand the f**k*r's free!
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Carrier bolts, i never even try to shift them, simply plug in the angle grinder and away they go - bench drill remainders, chase threads and use new bolts with a smidgen copper grease.......
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ive just put new rear calipers on mine coz they were siezed and to remove them bolts
ive got a socket set that is for rounded off heads and i used that over the top and they
came off no probs.
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As a last resort, but new bolts and weld any old nut/bolt to the jammed one then undo it, thats what i had to do on my mk2 8vGTi
Dan
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hi guys,
just finished doing my rear brakes and as usual the caliper bolts rounded off a treat. tried a hex socket smacked in there, then a splined but no joy.
Invested in a set of these (£28 I paid from a local place as I needed them quick) but I have to say they are an amazing piece of kit, well worth the money.
They just get tighter and tighter even if your going in at an angle like I was for some reason, new carrier bolts were only 75p from VW too which isn't too bad
http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-394001-Bolt-Grip-Remover/dp/B0000CCXVZ
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hi guys,
just finished doing my rear brakes and as usual the caliper bolts rounded off a treat. tried a hex socket smacked in there, then a splined but no joy.
Invested in a set of these (£28 I paid from a local place as I needed them quick) but I have to say they are an amazing piece of kit, well worth the money.
They just get tighter and tighter even if your going in at an angle like I was for some reason, new carrier bolts were only 75p from VW too which isn't too bad
http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-394001-Bolt-Grip-Remover/dp/B0000CCXVZ
:wink: yes indeed, i also used these and they did the job fantastic. a tool well worth investing in.
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A good mate with a gas axe and some new bolts was the way forward for me, but that was a bit drastic... :evil:
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Done a set of these today, 8mm allen key fitted in and bolts came stright out, not bad to say car been stood for 6 years.
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i just welded a nut on to mine and took them off that way lol
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Irwin bolt extractors work wonders on these little fother mucker bolts. They are available from Screwfix, machine mart, ebay etc for roughly £20 for a set of 5, an expansion kt is also available which has extra sizes which fit nicely into the base kit case for around £15. A really good investment imo.
(http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/41/p2608741_l.jpg)
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/96028/Van-Car-Accessories/Sockets-Hex/Irwin-5-Piece-Bolt-Grip-Nut-Remover-Set (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/96028/Van-Car-Accessories/Sockets-Hex/Irwin-5-Piece-Bolt-Grip-Nut-Remover-Set)
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This problem comes up time and time again on various forums. My advice would be ignore some of the rubbish posted and go for the irwin extractors above. They won't let you down.
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indeed, as already said, but be careful which set you buy as there is the standard set and the expansion set. one of the sets wont work and if i remember correctly is was the standard set, so buy the expansion set first...lol its worth having the full set..
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I bought the standard set and the largest size did the trick once whacked into place.
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BUMP up an old topic
Where can you get replacement bolts? VW wanted £112 a side for carriers.
Where can you buy the expansion set for that irwin job?
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BUMP up an old topic
Where can you get replacement bolts? VW wanted £112 a side for carriers.
Where can you buy the expansion set for that irwin job?
I got bolts from ebay , about £1 each . also as a side not vw wont sell the slider pins individually , make you buy new carrier , but you can buy them from a ford dealer form an old granada I believe ( exactly the same , ill find the part number if anyone needs)
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Get a sealey stud extractor it is a round type device that goes on the end off a half inch ratchet its a tight fit but it works , do you meen the four bolts that go through the rear axel ?