GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: dragongreen16v on 17 April 2004, 12:55
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Is it possible to re-map the existing chip in the ECU? or would it be a case of swapping the chip? problem is, on the late 16v, the ECU is under the ABS hydraulic stuff...looks fiddly! Has anyone had good results with a chip?
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no...never mind!
I've got ?300 ish to spend on the car, what do recon for best power gain? to say the car's supposed to have 150bhp, it doesn't seem that powerful! So hence me trying to get a few more horses.
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Get it chipped ;)
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And that will give a definite power increase?
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I'm looking at an AMD chip for mine. Looks like a 12 - 15 BHP increase and better driveability. Cost is ?350 including a RR set up.
From what I've read AMD seem to offer the best conversions for many VW's.
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Milltek Exhaust, basic PiperX induction and remap got me from 115bhp (2.0 8v) to 142bhp... remaps work.
Unfortunamtely I took mine to AmD for the remap and it had been done already... they still RR'd it for free and gave me all the graphs...
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So it was re-mapped without removing the old chip?
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yes - they just reprogram the existing chip - they can do one that "flashes" the chip to upgrade it and then "flashes" it back to the old chip.... back and forth as often as you want (just in case the missus wants to drive the car, etc)...
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Is there any software out there that will let you do this yourself? I've got the VAG COM diagnostic software and can reset the milage....there must be something on the market.
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I agree with dragongreen16V, all they do is remove the old fuel maps and email it away for the maps to be altered and then they put the new maps back in the chip. It can't be that hard really. All you would need is the correct diagnostic port connector and the right software and it should be great! Just don't know where to find it!
Any help people!!!!?
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Hi m8 i recently got my gti ecu remapped from a guy called jason for ?80 heres his website www.chippeduk.com. does mainly bms but can really do all cars.
cheerz
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before chipping i would recommend three upgrades...
1. Decent Exhaust System (mine's a Powerflow from cat back)
2. Good induction kit (I have a large K&N with cold feed straight from the lower grill)
3. Fuel boost valve - there is a problem associated with 2.0 8v gti's - if you go with the first two options this should give you a power increase of about 15bhp however - not bad 13% gain but you'll find that the induction kit is sucking in too much air. basically there is a delay with the fuel injectors which results in a delay in acceleration and when you get to about 5000rpm the engine starts to back off - here's where the boost valve comes in. Essentially you can alter the boost which basically rams fuel into the injectors a t a constant pressure resulting in no power lag, crisp pulling and much more torque imy car now pulls and keeps pulling all the way to 6000rpm and above - makes it drive better to!!
With these three mods my R reg 2.0 8v GTi now kicks out 150bhp and has shattering accelaration and more to the point is lot of fun!! plus it drives sooo much better.
Everyone goes on about the 16v - yeah sure its faster but you have to wind it up and keep it up - the 8v has bags more torque and is much more drivable in my humble opinion.
Chipping next on my list - i wanna get into VR6 territory but without the fuel consumption and running costs!
Simon.
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That's all very interesting - but, what about fuel consumption???
If it's got higher fuel pressure, surely it will use a heap more fuel and i already spend a fortune!
i've already got the induction kit and cat back system. Chipping gives you more power but more economy also, just wondering how this works, because it would be a hell of a lot cheaper i would imagine!
let me know what your average MPG is and what kind of driving!
Thanks in advance!
steve
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Hi m8 can u also let us no what boost valve u got on urs and any pointers on wer to buy it from :smiley:
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before chipping i would recommend three upgrades...
1. Decent Exhaust System (mine's a Powerflow from cat back)
2. Good induction kit (I have a large K&N with cold feed straight from the lower grill)
3. Fuel boost valve - there is a? problem associated with 2.0 8v gti's - if you go with the first two options? this should give you a power increase of about 15bhp however - not bad 13% gain but you'll find that the induction kit is sucking in too much air. basically there is a delay with the fuel injectors which results in a delay in acceleration and when you get to about 5000rpm the engine starts to back off - here's where the boost valve comes in. Essentially you can alter the boost which basically rams fuel into the injectors a t a constant pressure resulting in no power lag, crisp pulling and much more torque imy car now pulls and keeps pulling all the way to 6000rpm and above - makes it drive better to!!
With these three mods my R reg 2.0 8v GTi now kicks out 150bhp and has shattering accelaration and more to the point is lot of fun!! plus it drives sooo much better.
Everyone goes on about the 16v - yeah sure its faster but you have to wind it up and keep it up - the 8v has bags more torque and is much more drivable in my humble opinion.
Chipping next on my list - i wanna get into VR6 territory but without the fuel consumption and running costs!
Simon.
Sounds a bit optimistic to me.
Exhaust/filter/remap should only see about 140 ish bhp on an 8v.
To get to vr6 territory you will need some serious engine work or a turbo ?:laugh:
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My car was tuned by RPE in Cullompton, Devon and on their rolling road my 8v throws out just under 150bhp. By fitting a big K&N induction kit and powerflow exhaust system the bhp rose from 115bhp standard up to 130bhp with these two mods. by adding an FSE Power Boost Valve (link http://www.proven-products.co.uk/products/fse_power_boost_valves.htm) this raised the power to 142bhp, after 600 miles so to allow the seals to bed in it was back to the tuners for a third rolling road test and boost adjustment after a bit of fine tuning the bhp was increased to 149bhp. Fuel consuption on average urban driving 27-32mpg depending on how i feel (i drive 7 miles into exeter and back on an A road i get anything up to 34mpg!), cruising and back roads i had 37mpg going to Barnstable in north devon on Wednesday. In terms of fuel consumption you can run the boost higher and you'll get less mpg/more power but in doing this you could run the risk of destroying your engine. I got my valve installed through my tuners and it sooo makes a difference, honesty.
I will be looking a a superchip which should give around an extra 12-15bhp which would take it up to 165bhp (not that far off a vr6!!) but it's the torque i'm after rather than power...
I hope this helps and answers your questions - if you would like to see pics of the mods let me know.
Simon.
i love my 8v but i'd so like an unmolested VR6........or a scooby.
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I've only got a k&n panel and a drilled box on my vr6.
f**k me i must have at least 210 bhp now ?:laugh:
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I got a Golf GTI 16V and 2 years ago I had my chip re-mapped by AMD in Banbury. They do a before and after test and let you have a test drive before you pay(£299). Before the re-map, I was getting 167BHP standard and after I got 182BHP. These readings are from the wheels and not from the flywheel. I have recently had a miltek exhaust fitted so I reckon I should be getting around 190BHP. Apart from the re-map and exhaust, everything else is standard.
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167bhp at the wheels on a 16v, i don't think so!! :grin:
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165bhp from a 2E without headwork... hrmm... Hat and eating comes to mind.
this 'power boost valve' sounds exactly the same as a fuel pressure regulator. All FPR's drop their pressure when there is vacume at the manifold to stop you throwing flames when off the gas slowing down. It's all those electrics waiting for their sensors to tell them the driver is back on the gas that causes the delay. (remember's k-jet).
167bhp @ the wheels from a 16v LOL. I think VR6's put about 150bhp at the wheels.
If you set this valve to 3.5bar you're going to run into problems seeing as the mk3 8v fuel pump is only rated at 3bar...
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I think i had a power boost valve on my 205 gti back in the day, that went like a true pocket rocket :evil:
Has anybody got one on a Mk3 16v? does it make much/any difference?
where is the best place to buy one?
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I'd LOVE to believe some of the quoted figures on this thread, but I can't. 167hp from a standard 16v, no way. A remap on a NA car will give only a couple of hp, no more than 10 really, however good the remap is. 142hp from an 8v with exhaust, chip and induction kit? Again I struggle to believe that, as mine pulled 138hp and as many know it had a rally spec cam, as well as exhaust and drilled airbox/panel filter combo and a great big cold air intake, as well as being freezing temperature when it was done (January's big freeze).
These remap companies will often program their dynos to over read so you leave the shop with a great big smile recommending it to the entire world and coming back for me in the future.
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5 year old thread back from the dead. :rolleyes:
But I do have to laugh at some of the figures quoted in this thread.
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5 year old thread back from the dead. :rolleyes:
But I do have to laugh at some of the figures quoted in this thread.
Apart from Khares, the others are pure bullsh!t! :grin:
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The first 2 pages of this thread are a massive lolfest.
My favourite part was the bit about induction kits sucking in too much air.
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my 16v has a panel filter and new spark plugs. i should be looking at 197bhp with a remap. reckon i could get it well over 250bhp with a zorst and some stripes!
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my 16v has a panel filter and new spark plugs. i should be looking at 197bhp with a remap. reckon i could get it well over 250bhp with a zorst and some stripes!
Take the Zorst off and double up on stripes, will see you way over 250! :cool:
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Blimey, didn't notice the thread age :grin: :grin: :grin:
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I'd LOVE to believe some of the quoted figures on this thread, but I can't. 167hp from a standard 16v, no way. A remap on a NA car will give only a couple of hp, no more than 10 really, however good the remap is. 142hp from an 8v with exhaust, chip and induction kit? Again I struggle to believe that, as mine pulled 138hp and as many know it had a rally spec cam, as well as exhaust and drilled airbox/panel filter combo and a great big cold air intake, as well as being freezing temperature when it was done (January's big freeze).
These remap companies will often program their dynos to over read so you leave the shop with a great big smile recommending it to the entire world and coming back for me in the future.
You haven't got neon though which were soo 2004.
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At least they searched before posting :grin:
Reckon I should remap my 1.4? I hear they go straight to 100bhp with a remap and smaller wheels. The smaller wheels spin faster, so it goes faster innit.
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Blimey, didn't notice the thread age :grin: :grin: :grin:
I like to read :wink: and I know how to use the search button :shocked:
I know that will come back to bite me lol
Soooooooo
I am no where nearer to answering my question!
Are these power boost valves any good? Im just looking for a quicker throttle response from my 16v. I have added a K&N panel filter and dont notice any difference apart from a little LESS noise from the exhaust :kiss: she purrs all the way throught the rev range now. I had the exhaust system checked and its fine, so cant justify a new performance exhaust yet.
I have found this on AmD Technic website, they claim an extra 10bhp for £350 :) http://www.amdtechnik.com/products.variant.cfm?variantid=63 (http://www.amdtechnik.com/products.variant.cfm?variantid=63)
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Please note:
All prices are excluding VAT and fitting unless stated otherwise. All power gains are approximate, actual gains will be accurately shown with dynoplot readouts.
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I have no idea what a power boost valve is but on a NA engine it sounds like complete boll*cks to me. It could be like the WUR mod on a 1.8 16v engine but that runs k-jet injection so is really fundamentally different.
From what I can remember in other threads ABF remaps will get you about 3-5 bhp extra top end (not a lot of use unless you always change up at 7000rpm), a bit more throttle response and maybe a couple of bhp lower down the rev range if you're lucky.
As far as I know there's no easy gains to be had with these engines. If you want to go fast just try to always keep it above 4000rpm!
Losing some weight from the car is probably the quickest and easiest way of getting some extra speed. For a start never put more than 1/4 of a tank of petrol in... :laugh:
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I have no idea what a power boost valve is but on a NA engine it sounds like complete boll*cks to me. It could be like the WUR mod on a 1.8 16v engine but that runs k-jet injection so is really fundamentally different.
From what I can remember in other threads ABF remaps will get you about 3-5 bhp extra top end (not a lot of use unless you always change up at 7000rpm), a bit more throttle response and maybe a couple of bhp lower down the rev range if you're lucky.
As far as I know there's no easy gains to be had with these engines. If you want to go fast just try to always keep it above 4000rpm!
Losing some weight from the car is probably the quickest and easiest way of getting some extra speed. For a start never put more than 1/4 of a tank of petrol in... :laugh:
Hmmmmm
I guess the diet starts now then! i could do with losing a bit of weight :)
And never put more than a 1/4 tank in?? wtf?
I fill her up whenever she gets to the half tank marker.....
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I have to laugh at the banter in this thread! Especially the Figures and jimps quote on smaller wheels :D
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At least they searched before posting :grin:
Reckon I should remap my 1.4? I hear they go straight to 100bhp with a remap and smaller wheels. The smaller wheels spin faster, so it goes faster innit.
Not with your f**king balloon tyres. :grin:
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At least they searched before posting :grin:
Reckon I should remap my 1.4? I hear they go straight to 100bhp with a remap and smaller wheels. The smaller wheels spin faster, so it goes faster innit.
Not with your f**king balloon tyres. :grin:
Don't run tyres mate! Can't get pulled for bald tyres then! Savin' money too innit.
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At least they searched before posting :grin:
Reckon I should remap my 1.4? I hear they go straight to 100bhp with a remap and smaller wheels. The smaller wheels spin faster, so it goes faster innit.
Not with your f**king balloon tyres. :grin:
Don't run tyres mate! Can't get pulled for bald tyres then! Savin' money too innit.
Sticking it to the man. :grin:
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I am no where nearer to answering my question!
Are these power boost valves any good?
Nope, I would go for a remap instead.
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I am no where nearer to answering my question!
Are these power boost valves any good?
Nope, I would go for a remap instead.
Thank You, just the answer I was looking for :wink:
How about a power boost valve & a remap? or am i being too ambitious?? Its just I drove my mates 8v and it seems quicker/more responsive than my 16v :cry: he claims to have 126bhp :cool:
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I am no where nearer to answering my question!
Are these power boost valves any good?
Nope, I would go for a remap instead.
Thank You, just the answer I was looking for :wink:
How about a power boost valve & a remap? or am i being too ambitious?? Its just I drove my mates 8v and it seems quicker/more responsive than my 16v :cry: he claims to have 126bhp :cool:
I struggle to believe he has 126bhp to be honest, a remap at best will gain you 2 / 3 bhp.
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Remaps and chips totally not worth £300.
I might spend £10 on one at most really.
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Your 16v might just need a good service. Plugs/filters/oil/etc. Freshen it up a bit.
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Remaps and chips totally not worth £300.
I might spend £10 on one at most really.
Ebay chips are to be honest crap, can and will cause more issues in the end, most of the time they trick the car into running the cold start map all the time.
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Remaps and chips totally not worth £300.
I might spend £10 on one at most really.
Ebay chips are to be honest crap, can and will cause more issues in the end, most of the time they trick the car into running the cold start map all the time.
Sorry, I meant if I had a GTi, I'd get a Superchip/remap (not an eBay chip LOL) if they were a tenner.
Can't justify any more then that for 2hp....
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Power boost valves are basically adjustable fuel pressure regulators. Higher rail pressure means more fuel which in turn means more power, but the ignition advance has to be adjusted accordingly to make the best of it and uprated cams would be a bonus too.
This is a quote taken from a website
What is a Power boost valve?
The Power Boost Valve is an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator.
The Power Boost Valve is designed for use on ‘Electric Fuel Injection' engines with a special fuel enrichment facility for acceleration, commonly known as a ‘Rising Fuel Rate'. The enrichment is 1.7 : 1.
How does the power boost valve work?
As standard the original equipment electric fuel pump supplies fuel at a high pressure to the fuel rail and injectors, which is then regulated by a fuel pressure control valve. Typically, the regulator is not adjustable and is pre-set to a 3 bar maximum pressure. At idle the fuel pressure valve reduces it by 0.5 bar approximately to 2.5 bar. When accelerating quickly from standstill the fuel pressure increases at a proportional rate retaining a lean fuel mixture strength as required by the E.E.C. for new vehicles. However, the resultant effects of the standard valve produce:
Lethargic throttle response
Occasional drivability problems at slow traffic speeds
Intermediate performance 'flat spots' when accelerating
However, the FSE Power Boost Valve has an adjustable fuel pressure, effected by the movement of an adjustment screw on the crown of the unit. New Power Boost Valves are pre-set with a maximum fuel pressure of 2.5, 3.0 or 3.5 bar, depending on the vehicle in question, and similarly (to the original valve) the fuel pressure is reduced by 0.5 bar approximately at idle. There the similarities end.
On acceleration from standstill the Power Boost Valve fuel pressure will increase at 1.7 times the standard rate. This will produce a healthy, strong fuel mixture strength, which will instantly improve the drivability of your vehicle. The regulator enhances engine performance on acceleration by enriching the mixture strength. On constant throttle and cruise conditions the valve returns to a normal regulator function.
The benefits of the Power Boost Valve are: -
Suitable for Standard and Tuned Vehicles
Quicker Throttle Response
Faster Acceleration
Throttle Hesitation (in most cases eliminated)
Normal Idle (with adjustment) retained
Normal economy on light throttle
General fitting instructions included
Manufactured to original equipment specs
Basically, the power boost valve DOES make a difference by keeping rail pressure at a constant rate, meaning when you hit the go pedal there is pressure in the rail to react quickly. If I could afford one I would buy it, but with my financial situation right now sadly I can't.
I do think they are a good buy but I don't think they give added power, it's more about eliminating flat spots, smoothing out the power curve and improving throttle response. Combined with a remap they should provide better results than a remap alone, as the pressure is able to be raised/controlled.
Remaps and chips totally not worth £300.
I might spend £10 on one at most really.
Ebay chips are to be honest crap, can and will cause more issues in the end, most of the time they trick the car into running the cold start map all the time.
You get what you pay for. A remap will be done with your car on a dyno, the operator will see where the curve needs smoothing and improving and will map the injectors and ignition advance to a spec required for YOUR car. An ebay chip has a preset map that won't take vehicle modifications into account and will dump a preset amount of fuel and ignition advance. They can lead to problems as if you have a completely standard car, it might run too rich, and if you have headwork, camshaft and uprated ignition system it might run too lean. Both of the above will end in tears where as with a custom remap, the map is made to work with your modifications and it takes them all into account.
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A power boost valve looses against the engine sensors eg: lambda,knock sensor etc (the valve adds fuel then the ecu reduces it)....so there basically pointless/useless!
and the ebay chips make the ecu think it needs more fuel and possibly advance the timing but I doubt the engine will like it for long!! Good petrol (98ron+) is possibly a better option?
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Power boost valves are basically adjustable fuel pressure regulators. Higher rail pressure means more fuel which in turn means more power, but the ignition advance has to be adjusted accordingly to make the best of it and uprated cams would be a bonus too.
This is a quote taken from a website
What is a Power boost valve?
The Power Boost Valve is an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator.
The Power Boost Valve is designed for use on ‘Electric Fuel Injection' engines with a special fuel enrichment facility for acceleration, commonly known as a ‘Rising Fuel Rate'. The enrichment is 1.7 : 1.
How does the power boost valve work?
As standard the original equipment electric fuel pump supplies fuel at a high pressure to the fuel rail and injectors, which is then regulated by a fuel pressure control valve. Typically, the regulator is not adjustable and is pre-set to a 3 bar maximum pressure. At idle the fuel pressure valve reduces it by 0.5 bar approximately to 2.5 bar. When accelerating quickly from standstill the fuel pressure increases at a proportional rate retaining a lean fuel mixture strength as required by the E.E.C. for new vehicles. However, the resultant effects of the standard valve produce:
Lethargic throttle response
Occasional drivability problems at slow traffic speeds
Intermediate performance 'flat spots' when accelerating
However, the FSE Power Boost Valve has an adjustable fuel pressure, effected by the movement of an adjustment screw on the crown of the unit. New Power Boost Valves are pre-set with a maximum fuel pressure of 2.5, 3.0 or 3.5 bar, depending on the vehicle in question, and similarly (to the original valve) the fuel pressure is reduced by 0.5 bar approximately at idle. There the similarities end.
On acceleration from standstill the Power Boost Valve fuel pressure will increase at 1.7 times the standard rate. This will produce a healthy, strong fuel mixture strength, which will instantly improve the drivability of your vehicle. The regulator enhances engine performance on acceleration by enriching the mixture strength. On constant throttle and cruise conditions the valve returns to a normal regulator function.
The benefits of the Power Boost Valve are: -
Suitable for Standard and Tuned Vehicles
Quicker Throttle Response
Faster Acceleration
Throttle Hesitation (in most cases eliminated)
Normal Idle (with adjustment) retained
Normal economy on light throttle
General fitting instructions included
Manufactured to original equipment specs
Basically, the power boost valve DOES make a difference by keeping rail pressure at a constant rate, meaning when you hit the go pedal there is pressure in the rail to react quickly. If I could afford one I would buy it, but with my financial situation right now sadly I can't.
I do think they are a good buy but I don't think they give added power, it's more about eliminating flat spots, smoothing out the power curve and improving throttle response. Combined with a remap they should provide better results than a remap alone, as the pressure is able to be raised/controlled.
Thank you Khare.
Thats some very interesting reading there... Maybe im just a fat bastard who needs to lose weight but my 16v doesnt seem as pokey as other GTi's i have owned/driven. The plugs, leads, dizzy, oil & filter were all done recently. Dont get me wrong she is quick, you just have to rev her... i want to hit the accelerator and GO! maybe i am just trying to relive my youth when i was carrying less weight driving GTi's....
im going on the hunt for a new power boost valve now but i wont fit it until i can afford a remap (hopefully within the next month, if not will have to be after xmas) These guys are closest to me, although they seem to be only doing Audi's now, about 10years ago they done a Mk1 Gti for me... http://www.dialynx.co.uk/about.htm I am going to pop in next week and see what they can do for me..
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A power boost valve looses against the engine sensors eg: lambda,knock sensor etc (the valve adds fuel then the ecu reduces it)....so there basically pointless/useless!
and the ebay chips make the ecu think it needs more fuel and possibly advance the timing but I doubt the engine will like it for long!! Good petrol (98ron+) is possibly a better option?
As I said it's not exactly about adding more fuel, but keeping a constant pressure. Running 99RON will obviously be a good improvement too, it's the only stuff I put in my car.
As for remap, check out Rtech, they do mobile remapping so they come to you and they are very popular amongst the forum :smiley:
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A standard fuel pressure regulator will keep a constant pressure.
Uprated regulators are pointless without other mods.
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A standard fuel pressure regulator will keep a constant pressure.
Uprated regulators are pointless without other mods.
care to elaborate? :nerd:
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A standard fuel pressure regulator will keep a constant pressure.
Uprated regulators are pointless without other mods.
care to elaborate? :nerd:
A power boost valve looses against the engine sensors eg: lambda,knock sensor etc (the valve adds fuel then the ecu reduces it)....so there basically pointless/useless!
and the ebay chips make the ecu think it needs more fuel and possibly advance the timing but I doubt the engine will like it for long!! Good petrol (98ron+) is possibly a better option?
As above it will gain you nothing, on older cars they did help a little.
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A standard fuel pressure regulator will keep a constant pressure.
Uprated regulators are pointless without other mods.
care to elaborate? :nerd:
A power boost valve looses against the engine sensors eg: lambda,knock sensor etc (the valve adds fuel then the ecu reduces it)....so there basically pointless/useless!
and the ebay chips make the ecu think it needs more fuel and possibly advance the timing but I doubt the engine will like it for long!! Good petrol (98ron+) is possibly a better option?
As above it will gain you nothing, on older cars they did help a little.
Cheers Wayne
Looks like im just going to have to lose some weight then if i want a quicker throttle response :)
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A standard fuel pressure regulator will keep a constant pressure.
Uprated regulators are pointless without other mods.
care to elaborate? :nerd:
You don't need uprated fuel pressure unless the engine has been heavily modified.
For example ported head, uprated cams then it might have a small effect top end.
I would think to get real benefit you would need to have a higher revving engine, as the engine may be slightly lean top end.
The best person to ask is Glen (ess_three), our no.1 engineer on here :smiley:
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The best person to ask is Glen (ess_three), our no.1 engineer on here :smiley:
I'm no expert!
I've just been down the road of buying all the crap that is supposed to make a big differnce...only to find it doesn't do anything.
I've spent thousands finding out the hard way.
The bottom line is: There is no cheap fix.
ABFs do not make 170+ BHP by just looking at them.
They were not 'strangled' by VW to only make 150BHP...so don't go looking for an easy 20 BHP.
They do not make 190+ BHP without spending many thousands on good old fashoined engineering solutions to the same problems every other engine has.
...and if you chase 200+ BHP, you'll find much of the so called 'good kit' doesn't fit...so you'll have to engineer it yourself.
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So what's your view on power boost valves then?
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So what's your view on power boost valves then?
lol you took the words out of my mouth!!
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:wink:
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So what's your view on power boost valves then?
Waste of time...just adding fuel everywhere, which gives the closed loop lambda control a headache.
If you need more fuel, add it properly via an ECU calibration.
Out of interest, I tried a 4 bar FPR in my 16v on the dyno one day...it lost power and ran badly (over-fuelling) swapped back to the 3 bar FPR and I got the power back.
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So what's your view on power boost valves then?
Waste of time...just adding fuel everywhere, which gives the closed loop lambda control a headache.
If you need more fuel, add it properly via an ECU calibration.
Out of interest, I tried a 4 bar FPR in my 16v on the dyno one day...it lost power and ran badly (over-fuelling) swapped back to the 3 bar FPR and I got the power back.
Glad you said that cos I was thinking of getting hold of a 4 bar FPR. Glad I didn't now then.
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Glad you said that cos I was thinking of getting hold of a 4 bar FPR. Glad I didn't now then.
I tried it on both my 16v and S3...and it screwed up the fuelling in both cases.
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The best person to ask is Glen (ess_three), our no.1 engineer on here :smiley:
I'm no expert!
I've just been down the road of buying all the crap that is supposed to make a big differnce...only to find it doesn't do anything.
I've spent thousands finding out the hard way.
The bottom line is: There is no cheap fix.
ABFs do not make 170+ BHP by just looking at them.
They were not 'strangled' by VW to only make 150BHP...so don't go looking for an easy 20 BHP.
They do not make 190+ BHP without spending many thousands on good old fashoined engineering solutions to the same problems every other engine has.
...and if you chase 200+ BHP, you'll find much of the so called 'good kit' doesn't fit...so you'll have to engineer it yourself.
Thank god someone with some sense.
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Amen to that.
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Glad you said that cos I was thinking of getting hold of a 4 bar FPR. Glad I didn't now then.
I tried it on both my 16v and S3...and it screwed up the fuelling in both cases.
hmmmm
what if i was to run it on smaller tyres? :laugh: :laugh:
seriously tho - thanks for your reply. saved me a few quid, thanks you very much, that will go in the remap kitty :wink:
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Milltek Exhaust, basic PiperX induction and remap got me from 115bhp (2.0 8v) to 142bhp... remaps work.
Unfortunamtely I took mine to AmD for the remap and it had been done already... they still RR'd it for free and gave me all the graphs...
Sorry to Thread jack :( But how much did that cost to get it all done?
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Milltek Exhaust, basic PiperX induction and remap got me from 115bhp (2.0 8v) to 142bhp... remaps work.
Unfortunamtely I took mine to AmD for the remap and it had been done already... they still RR'd it for free and gave me all the graphs...
Sorry to Thread jack :( But how much did that cost to get it all done?
It was 6 years ago :rolleyes: however no way on this earth did a remap, exhaust and filter gain that much extra power.
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Milltek Exhaust, basic PiperX induction and remap got me from 115bhp (2.0 8v) to 142bhp... remaps work.
Unfortunamtely I took mine to AmD for the remap and it had been done already... they still RR'd it for free and gave me all the graphs...
Sorry to Thread jack :( But how much did that cost to get it all done?
It was 6 years ago :rolleyes: however no way on this earth did a remap, exhaust and filter gain that much extra power.
:grin: What you on about Wayne?? :huh:
Zorst, filter and remap, gotta be talking 250bhp+ :rolleyes:
In all seriousness tho, some of the figures in this thread are so massively exagerated its actually laughable :laugh:
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Milltek Exhaust, basic PiperX induction and remap got me from 115bhp (2.0 8v) to 142bhp... remaps work.
Unfortunamtely I took mine to AmD for the remap and it had been done already... they still RR'd it for free and gave me all the graphs...
Sorry to Thread jack :( But how much did that cost to get it all done?
It was 6 years ago :rolleyes: however no way on this earth did a remap, exhaust and filter gain that much extra power.
:grin: What you on about Wayne?? :huh:
Zorst, filter and remap, gotta be talking 250bhp+ :rolleyes:
In all seriousness tho, some of the figures in this thread are so massively exagerated its actually laughable :laugh:
oh cool that must mean that my 1.8t is making like 330bhp :shocked: :grin: :laugh:
Also consider not just the top bhp numbers but how it gets there, the mid range is easy to get power from on those cars, and thats where you drive them most of the time. youre not gonna be using all the bhp of the car much at all unless you are racing it
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Also consider not just the top bhp numbers but how it gets there, the mid range is easy to get power from on those cars, and thats where you drive them most of the time. youre not gonna be using all the bhp of the car much at all unless you are racing it
Most decent re-chips for the 16v will only give 4-6 NHP peak...but are capable of giving 10+ BHP midrange, so they feel faster than the peak power suggests.
But, with all 16v engines, you have to be prepared to use all the revs, all the time.
I hit my 7300PM limiter every day I drive mine...you have to, if you want all the 'go'.
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Also consider not just the top bhp numbers but how it gets there, the mid range is easy to get power from on those cars, and thats where you drive them most of the time. youre not gonna be using all the bhp of the car much at all unless you are racing it
Most decent re-chips for the 16v will only give 4-6 NHP peak...but are capable of giving 10+ BHP midrange, so they feel faster than the peak power suggests.
But, with all 16v engines, you have to be prepared to use all the revs, all the time.
I hit my 7300PM limiter every day I drive mine...you have to, if you want all the 'go'.
shocking :shocked: whats your mpg like? :evil:
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shocking :shocked: whats your mpg like? :evil:
Mid 20s I suppose.
Chasing BHP doesn't come cheap...so an ABF making 190+ BHP and running a close ratio, low geared gearbox, uses plenty of fuel.
It's quick though... :grin:
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shocking :shocked: whats your mpg like? :evil:
Mid 20s I suppose.
Chasing BHP doesn't come cheap...so an ABF making 190+ BHP and running a close ratio, low geared gearbox, uses plenty of fuel.
It's quick though... :grin:
What gearbox are you running these days, I quess a standard set up is not man enough to cope
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What gearbox are you running these days, I quess a standard set up is not man enough to cope
Gemini/VW Motorsport 6 speed 02A conversion, running semi-straight cut gears, uprated selector bushes & pins, synchros, additional 6th gear oil feed, Peloquin LSD, 4.2 FD, MTS Motorsport upper and lower shift tower bushes...and a very light 'special' flywheel.
The 'ultimate' NA 02A fast road/track gearbox, in my mind.
Standard could cope...but I wanted as closer gear kit...so it's now geared for 145MPH @ 7300 in 6th (fuel cut)....which it will pull.
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How much is that gearbox worth Glen?
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With these three mods my R reg 2.0 8v GTi now kicks out 150bhp and has shattering accelaration
Simon.
I think I just wet myself loling :rolleyes: cracking thread
Just shows how much marketing bs works and how few dynos actually read accurate figures
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before chipping i would recommend three upgrades...
1. Decent Exhaust System (mine's a Powerflow from cat back)
2. Good induction kit (I have a large K&N with cold feed straight from the lower grill)
3. Fuel boost valve - there is a problem associated with 2.0 8v gti's - if you go with the first two options this should give you a power increase of about 15bhp however - not bad 13% gain but you'll find that the induction kit is sucking in too much air. basically there is a delay with the fuel injectors which results in a delay in acceleration and when you get to about 5000rpm the engine starts to back off - here's where the boost valve comes in. Essentially you can alter the boost which basically rams fuel into the injectors a t a constant pressure resulting in no power lag, crisp pulling and much more torque imy car now pulls and keeps pulling all the way to 6000rpm and above - makes it drive better to!!
With these three mods my R reg 2.0 8v GTi now kicks out 150bhp and has shattering accelaration and more to the point is lot of fun!! plus it drives sooo much better.
Everyone goes on about the 16v - yeah sure its faster but you have to wind it up and keep it up - the 8v has bags more torque and is much more drivable in my humble opinion.
Chipping next on my list - i wanna get into VR6 territory but without the fuel consumption and running costs!
Simon.
With these three mods my R reg 2.0 8v GTi now kicks out 150bhp and has shattering accelaration
Simon.
I think I just wet myself loling :rolleyes: cracking thread
Just shows how much marketing bs works and how few dynos actually read accurate figures
Agreed, I'd love to find this Simon so I could laugh in his face. Sounds almost as if he's trying to sell these power boost valves.
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What gearbox are you running these days, I quess a standard set up is not man enough to cope
Gemini/VW Motorsport 6 speed 02A conversion, running semi-straight cut gears, uprated selector bushes & pins, synchros, additional 6th gear oil feed, Peloquin LSD, 4.2 FD, MTS Motorsport upper and lower shift tower bushes...and a very light 'special' flywheel.
The 'ultimate' NA 02A fast road/track gearbox, in my mind.
Standard could cope...but I wanted as closer gear kit...so it's now geared for 145MPH @ 7300 in 6th (fuel cut)....which it will pull.
Porn :grin:
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How much is that gearbox worth Glen?
Probably about twice what the car is worth! :embarassed:
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Ouch! I've always been interested in playing with straight cut gears and the like, but obviously it would be an expensive hobby!