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General => Car audio => Topic started by: mat-ryder on 13 April 2008, 00:06
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I am going to amp my door speakers front and rear. i am guessing i will need 2x 2 channel amps, but what size/power should i use as i will be running JBL GTO's which are 60w RMS and 180w peak. Also what does the ohm rating mean on the amp descriptions?
cheers for your help people
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dont amp more than the speakers can handle :P
Or amp more than they can handle and just never go to max volume, or BOOOOOOOM
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i was once told by someone to use a more powerful amp than the speakers, something to do with knocking the balls out of the amp and heat exchange etc. dunno how true it is though
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Minimum you need is a single 4 channel amp running 4 x 60wrms,it's better to go for one slightly more powerful than the speakers and wind the gain back a little. My Monobox amp runs 400wrms whereas my sub is rated at 150wrms,but Rockford are very conservative with their ratings and the sub will take all the amp can throw at it with no distortion. Also go for the absolute best quality amp you can afford it makes a huge difference
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dont amp more than the speakers can handle :P
Or amp more than they can handle and just never go to max volume, or BOOOOOOOM
Wrong wrong wrong wrong, wrong wrong wrong wrong, your wrong... your wrong....
Sorry, just watched Scrubs, you're on the right lines but .... You're better off with a more powerful amp than what the speakers are rated for, at least then you know that:
1. You have room for improvement
2. You'll find it harder to send a clipped signal to the speakers and reduce the chance of damaging the VC
The only thing you need to pay attention to is matching the input gain to the output gain and you'll be fine, any more - and you're likely to find smoke pouring out of the little fellas.
I were you, I wouldn't bother, I'd just amp the front 2, and let the rears run off the HU (you don't want sound coming from behind you,) do you? However, if you're wanting to run 4 channels - then get a 4ch amp - rated around 75W RMS per channel.
Ohms.... (http://www.marktaw.com/recording/Electronics/OhmsAmpsandSpeakers.html)
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You're better off with a more powerful amp than what the speakers are rated for
Agree 100% - this is known as 'headroom'.
If you have a requirment of, say, 50wrms per channel you can either get an amp that delivers 50wrms (and run it at full chat) or source an amp that will run at 100wrms (for example) and run it at 50% of its ability.
The greater the headroom (i.e. difference between power requirement and power capability) the cleaner signal your speakers will get, as the amplifier is working well within its 'comfort zone' (i.e., zero chance of it sending a clipped signal to the speakers, as per Ben's comment).
It also means that, come speaker upgrade time, you can theoretically get a greedier set of components (in terms of power handling) without necessarily needing to upgrade your amplifier, which you'd need to do if you match them watt for watt.
People speak about pairing power handling of speakers and amplifiers, but most fail to understand that you can run an amplifier at less than full chat. You do need to balance the output of the amplier with the speakers, yes, but the output can be adjusted down, and therefore does not automatically mean its total ability must equal that of the speakers.
Power output of an amplifier is variable; buy high, and de-tune (adjust gain).
This gives a nice clean signal with a future upgrade path...
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So let me ask something, I'm getting a set of Infinity Kappa components speakers, their max RMS is 90watts at 2 ohms, so I've been looking at this JBL amp (because I'm getting a sub very soon so gonna bridge to channels).
It says that this amp can be 150watts RMS at 2 ohms, and 100RMS at 4 ohms. My question is, can I run the 2 channels needed for the front components at 2 ohms at the same time as running a bridged channel at 200watt RMS at 4 ohms for a sub?
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What components are you looking at? (Model number...)
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one of these please.....
T15kW
15,000 Watt 4-Ch. Hybrid SQ/SPL Amp
1/0 Gauge power/ground connectors with ANL fusing (anal fusing I think this is)
12dB or 24dB/octave selectable crossover
2/4 channel switch
Audiophile grade speaker connections
Best in class 4 oz. copper traces
MasterSync
PowerSync
Stealth Connections
$24,999.99
(http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/photos/T15kW_1_l.jpg)
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What components are you looking at? (Model number...)
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/infinity-kappa-607cs-p-4233.html
Those buddy.
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and the amp you're looking at?
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and the amp you're looking at?
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-gto1004e-p-6240.html
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Looks like a good un, I've had a JBL amp for about 8 years and its very good.