GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk5 => Topic started by: Phil mcavity on 11 April 2008, 23:54
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anyone know whats the cheapest way to sort a few bonnet chips out without going down the full respray route?? costing etc?
and NO not a full carbon fibre answer Hurdy, already thought of that one!
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As I'm not at all practical, I would get a quote from Chips Away or similar. You do not have to go with them if you don't like the price - not much good to you but there is a guy I have used locally in Norfolk (Scuffs) who is ace and very reasonable. Maybe you have got an equivalent nearby.
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paint, sand, polish - it's easy!!
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cheapest way is to blob some touch up in the hole and cut it back with very fine wetndry paper, i have seen some really good jobs this way
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APART FROM A NEW SHINY CARBON FIBRE BONNET :evil:
I agree with Blue. A dab of matching touch up paint, allow it to dry for 30 mins, the extra fine wet and dry paper on a small sanding block (ensures the paint gets sanded back level :nerd:). If you want you can still put a fine spot of clearcoat laquer over the top to match the gloss effect as some paints don't polish up or match correctly until the clearcoat is added :nerd:
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Just get the bonnet painted by a proper bodyshop - £150 ish
You'll never be content otherwise :wink:
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i wouldn't do respray route, they never look right imo, texture looks different at the very least
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not sure id have the balls to sand down the bonnet with wet n dry, and try polish the back out of know what red can be like to match. i guess is it use t-cut then polish/wax to get finished result?.
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:shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:
I'd never use T-cut, swirl mark city if you're not careful :sick:
Stick to a very limited area around the chipped area and try not to go over the are by too much. It will reduce the paint correction area when you get back to polishing and waxing.
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you dont need to sand it, its just easier, you can use a langka based liquid product to cut it back, Red is reasonably hard to match shade wise (as a repsray would be), then again as its non metallic it will be easier than a metallic to touch up
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yes i think i will try my luck at touch up firstly. i have a steady wrist as proven when pint in is my hand :wink:. There is at least 6 tiny chips i found so far so will see how it goes.
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yes i think i will try my luck at touch up firstly. i have a steady wrist as proven when pint in is my hand :wink:. There is at least 6 tiny chips i found so far so will see how it goes.
DONT use the supplied brush, either buy a very fine artist one, or use a cocktail stick
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i am the party sausage on a stick lover, so have plenty of sticks. cheers for the advise blue :wink:
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if done properly they can be near invisible, good luck
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i guess once paint is dry, use cocktail stick again with laquer?
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i guess once paint is dry, use cocktail stick again with laquer?
yeh completely or you will pull old paint out, you can mix the paint in with the lacquer and not need to top off, but i would test first, you may find you need a secon paint application though as the paint can sink (dependant on hole size), below is a guide to help you
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=20127&highlight=chip+touch+up
goes from this
(http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~khural/pics/bmw/m3_journal/stone_chip1.jpg)
(http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~khural/pics/bmw/m3_journal/stone_chip2.jpg)
to this
(http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~khural/pics/bmw/m3_journal/repaired1.jpg)
(http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~khural/pics/bmw/m3_journal/repaired3.jpg)
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The link says use fairy liquid. I would use a "bar" of soap as that cloggs the "grit" up even further and makes the wet & dry smoother, less abrasive.
Nice link 182_blue :afro: