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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: AdamMk2 on 08 April 2008, 00:14
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I am having a few problems with my Golf draining the car battery, it seems to be if you leave it for two days or so without starting it it struggles to turn over and the battery light comes on :undecided:
The is no live feed going to an amp/sub setup anywhere, however has a scorpion full closure alarm (Doubt this could do anything!!)
It has just had a new Alternator and battery so theres no problem there either!!!
Anyone experienced similar problems before???
Thanks
Adam
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Might be worth checking your boot light in case thats stuck on. :smiley:
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^^^^^^^^^
Wot he said was wot I was gonna say. :smiley:
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Cheers lads, will have a look now :wink:
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I would either buy a multimeter for £5 or borrow one!
disconect the postive battery lead and link it up tot he volt meter makes sure both voltage probes are in line i.e black probe on lead red probe on battery terminal.
Then check whats draining the car out.
The meter should read 0.5V or about 1V depending if your door is open, boot and the interior light is using ampage.
If its more like 2.5V or over start unpluging the fuses and see if the voltage drops if it does then that fuse which is linked should be the cause of the short in theory!
A new alternator does not mean the voltage regulator has not been damaged since install.
Jay
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mine was draining, turned out to be the stereo, for some reason the aftermarket sony i think it was has 2 feeds, one igntion and one permanent, the permanent had been bodged into the igntion for some reason, i knew this and thought taking the front of the stereo off would surfice, but it was definatly the root of my problems.. so to get round this i fitted a G60 engine and are fitting some guages in its place :cool: ... (although there maybe easier solutions)
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Funnily enough you mention the stereo, It has a new Alpine iPod unit however its not quite crimp and connect, more tape and go haha so will check that. (I didnt fit it btw!)
Also Voltmeter , will get on that straight away.
Cheers
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Had a look at the head unit lastnight and someone has spurred a live from the heated rear windscreen, possibly causing problems? However I found the correct switch and permenant live I belive and now the head unit comes on when the ignition key is turned, not just when the engines on!!
Score! :tongue:
Dads on the case to getting me a voltmeter today tho anyway, what a legend!
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....... and now the head unit comes on when the ignition key is turned, not just when the engines on!!
Hi
When the engines on, the ignition key is at ON anyway.
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What I meant was when Ive turned the key to the turn before it fires it actually works like I thought it should have done, prior to that it didnt!
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disconect the postive battery lead and link it up tot he volt meter makes sure both voltage probes are in line i.e black probe on lead red probe on battery terminal.
Then check whats draining the car out.
The meter should read 0.5V or about 1V depending if your door is open, boot and the interior light is using ampage.
(http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/L/a/cur_draw_test.gif)
Not to pick fights, but your likely to blow the multimeter fuse doing that. What you should do is disconnect the +ve terminal, whilst having the multimeter set to I (current - a 10A setting should suffice), connect the +ve lead of the multimeter to the disconnected +ve lead from the car, and the -ve lead of the multimeter to the +ve battery post. That will give a readout in amps which will tell you the rough drain. It shouldn't be more than 0.05A (within reason), finding the parasitic drain is the main issue.
Finding a parasitic drain (http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl470f.htm)