GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Tornado on 02 April 2008, 19:18
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I have a nice 3dr 8v 1990 Gti. I have had it for 3 yrs and bought it for £1100. It has only had 3 owners and has done less than 100k.
However, due to neglect, laziness and incompetence( on my part, as a mechanic)) I need to spend £700 to get it MOT'd. i think it is worth it but would you spend the cash or move it on?
Regards
Alan
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Depends, what needs doing?
700 is alot of money for repairs, especially if your a mechanic and can do most things on the cheap kinda thing.
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you need to look at it this way mate, are you gonna keep the car, or move it on. i mean selling it needing £700 of repairs for an mot you wont get alot for it, would be better of breaking it for parts, but if your intent on keeping it for a few more years to come then its worth it in the long run, but if your just putting in for mot to maybe sell a few months down the line its not worth spending the money
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you need to look at it this way mate, are you gonna keep the car, or move it on. i mean selling it needing £700 of repairs for an mot you wont get alot for it, would be better of breaking it for parts, but if your intent on keeping it for a few more years to come then its worth it in the long run, but if your just putting in for mot to maybe sell a few months down the line its not worth spending the money
wot e sed init ^ :grin:
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you need to look at it this way mate, are you gonna keep the car, or move it on. i mean selling it needing £700 of repairs for an mot you wont get alot for it, would be better of breaking it for parts, but if your intent on keeping it for a few more years to come then its worth it in the long run, but if your just putting in for mot to maybe sell a few months down the line its not worth spending the money
wot e sed init ^ :grin:
copy cat :grin:
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No i am not a mechanic :smiley:. i meant that i am not that great with a spanner so thats why this is costing me £700.
I am keeping the car so the money is worth it. What else could you buy for £700.
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a mk2 golf gti with no mot that needs less work doing to it and i bet you'd have some change out of it aswell
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Ach i know. But i know the car and that it isn,t full of rust. I just want to keep it going. :smiley:
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Pay it then :cool:
Gotta keep as many of the old girls on the road as we can :afro:
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my advice is to try and do as much you can yourself to keep the cost down. might not very good with a spanner, so why not try and learn a bit. its all experiance. the mk2 isnt a difficult car to work on in general, and i'm sure there are plenty of people here that can give you some sound advice should you need it. anywayz, good look maan, keep the old dub alive! :cool:
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I have done a bit but just stuff like speedo cable, gear linkage etc. Whenever I try and do some proper spannersmithing I either don't have the right tool or just f**k it up and can't use the car until it gets fixed by a proper mechanic. :sad:
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the mk2 isnt a difficult car to work on in general,
And as in my case, theres always sumot to fix an get the practice!!! :grin: :grin:
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if u always leave it to the experts you will never learn. Now you have a car worth little, get loads of practice with it, if u mess it up, then it should'nt be as bad as messing an expensive car up.
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I'd do it, wouldn't even think about it!
It'll be difficult to sell with that amount of work needed and it'd be criminal to break/scrap it.
Better to fix than buy another too, as at least you know it's history and you'll know the repairs have been carried out properly etc...
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im still struggling to figure out what could cost 700 notes to fix, on a car you've said is rust free...
worst case senario is the engine is fubar... could pick a new one up for 200 notes or so, and thats straight-forward to sort out, and everything else on a mk2 is simply a case of remembering which way to turn the spanner to un-do and tighten a bolt.
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i guess is all the suspension was dead, it needed a new exhaust from mani back, 4 new tyres, all new breaks etc and you wanted them all from a VAG dealer brand new, it could add upto £700
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Get yourself some mods then :cool:
Stainless exhaust
Suspension kit
Could work in your favour mate!
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there's that many mk2's being broken about, i dont think i genrally consider buying much new these days except consumables etc...
tyres fair do's, but 4 toyo's are under 200 notes... and they are about as good as you'll need.
other than that, most things are very much doable if you take a couple of days off work and get stuck in.
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but if you wanted all new parts it could cost that much, specially with labour charges onto aswell
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welll i suuuuppppooooosssse so :rolleyes:
but i dont think this guy is really interested in owning a show car(i may eb wrong), but second hand parts will often suffice...
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i bet hes taken it for, mot its failed and the mot sation have given him a quote for parts plus labour of £700, so in reality its prob got around £300 worth of work needing doing to it, as alot of mot places like to try and over charge cos they know ppl think he must know what hes on bout as he is a mot tester
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To me.... you could buy a lump for £250-£300 and the rest spend the rest on labour and spare parts for £700 so thats quite involved job! So £700 for MOT failure even its the brakes, tyres, CV boots and suspension (common failure) it would not come up to that much. You need the report and read what it failed on then take time out to get someone to assess the amount of labour and parts needed. Then take it from there another £50 for the re-test if you have to, as it could save you £400!
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Some of are you quite right. I don't want a show car and it is going to be a daily runner - so that is the problem with DIY stuff. In my experience i start a little reapir , or so i think, and 3 days later it is still in bits and car cannot be used. The bilk of the bill will be labour and VAT. Needs Back brakes, Cv boot and joint, brake pipes (been bad for 3 years) also oil change, brake fluid change drain and refill coolant system and repair oil leak. Oh and the MOT.
It is not that much but and none of it is a surprise to me. However labour and 17.5% to the taxman soon adds up. As i have said though it is worth it. I hope to do more work on it myself so I can avoid these bills in future :smiley:but i'll need to do it at the weekend when it is not being used!
Thanks for the advice. I promise to use spanners at every availible opportunuty.
PS the garage is local to me and is honest and there are one or two other things i have missed on the list of jobs; just little things but they add up. Yes I could have taken the car away and done some of the work myself and obtained second hand parts but would taken me months so I gave the garage the go-ahead to save time. I am also fond of my comfort so I don't like spending hours in the cold and rain anymore ( I am 45 after all) and it doesn't get any easier!
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17.5% to the taxman soon adds up.
Hi
Pay the taxman to get your car roadworthy. Where is the logic in VAT ?
If I were you, I would talk to the garage to negotiate a price for the work needed to get it MOT'd.
Once you got that, then whenever it is a nice day, you can yourself do the oil change. Do the coolant change another day. We will advise you.
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Once it is up and running I will do more maintenance. i normally do oil and stuff but i am old and Lazy!! :embarassed:
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at least you have an excuse....i'm young(ish) and lazy, thats even worse!! :grin: :grin:
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Only marginally! :wink:
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Needs Back brakes, Cv boot and joint, brake pipes (been bad for 3 years) also oil change, brake fluid change drain and refill coolant system and repair oil leak.
CV Boot and joint is a peice of pee, but a hub puller and track rod splitter from halfrauds, about 20 quid. then a new joint is about 20 quid too,
Undo hub nut while wheel is on and car is sat ont eh ground, use a scaffold pole and a 30mm socket. litrally, off with the wheel, two bolts for suspension leg, ball joint and track rod off. pull the hub using the tool, then get a hammer, give the cv joint a good smack from the rear and it just come off, then reversal. 2 hour job perhaps for a first timer.
oil change is a 10 min job, undo sump plug, drain oil. refit sump plug and refil oil.
coolant, 30 min job, undo bottom hose on rad, let all the water drain out. refil with 50% water, 50% anti-freeze. turn the heater on full, leave the expansion cap off, and run the motor, topping up when nessesary and squeezing pipes here and there, once the fan kicks in, on with the cap and your done.
oil leak will need more explanation.
brakes should cost no more than 40£ for an hours work bleeding them. changing rear calipers is easy too, second hand caliper from a car being broken is perhaps 20£ most, 30 min job to change so half hours labour at garage if you supply the brake calipers.
brake pipes will need doing though by a prof mechanic if you dont have the tools...
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oil change is a 10 min job, undo sump plug, drain oil. refit sump plug and refil oil.
Unless you are like me, after emptying the oil, I had a blonde moment and started the engine to move the car a bit. :laugh:
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:grin: classic!
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oil change is a 10 min job, undo sump plug, drain oil. refit sump plug and refil oil.
Unless you are like me, after emptying the oil, I had a blonde moment and started the engine to move the car a bit. :laugh:
donut :laugh: :rolleyes:
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to be fair i cant really laugh at you for it, i started up the 20v the other week, stood there revving it and genrally smiling alot, and my dad stood there and said:
''its all well and good you standing there revving it and it sounding amazing, but you have to remeber one thing rob, its not got any coolant in it and your making it get hotter alot faster.''
at which point i turned it off and called him a boring b*gger.