GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: slowgti on 13 March 2008, 01:03
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Im guessing that water bubbling out of the reservoir cap when the engine starts warming up is a sign of head gasket failure? are there any more obvious signs? is over heating one of them? i dont want to rip the head off for no reason, i just got it running good..
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is there yellow gunk under the oil filler cap? thats usually a sign of a head gasket going?
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na its just got a spot of oil on it. ill fully drain it soon and inspect it properly then. is it possible to have a blown head gasket without water in the oil?
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to be honest mate, i am not sure. Another one to check is on the block, where the head meets the bottom end, is there water weeping from the join?
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na mate the only sign i have is water randomly bubbling out of the radiator cap, and the water temp is known to raise at the drop of a hat. is it possible is has only cracked between the cylinder and the water jacket?
thanks
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get a new expansion cap from vw
this was happening to mine as it wasnt venting properly
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Do a compression test- that will give you a definate answer
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Garages can do a test on the coolant to see if it's contaminated. Takes a couple of minutes so not expensive.
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na its just got a spot of oil on it. ill fully drain it soon and inspect it properly then. is it possible to have a blown head gasket without water in the oil?
Yup. Try a new cap, but I expect it's the gasket. Look on the bright side though, at the same time you can do the stem seals, decoke the head lap the valves in etc. Cost of parts is only about £150 and that would include a skim and cambelt change!! It's an easy enough job to do yourself (minus the skim of course) or pay someone else to do it for about £300 ish.
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get a new expansion cap from vw
this was happening to mine as it wasnt venting properly
I'd agree with that.
Unless you've got other signs of HG failure don't worry, e.g. loss of coolant, oil in water, mayo in oil, overheating, white smoke or black smoke, or any of the above!
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Do a compression test- that will give you a definate answer
yea.. compression test.. rather shifty results id say.
cylinder 1-110psi
2-100psi
3-115psi
4-130psi
i gather that at normal atmospheric pressure it should have around 130psi? cos you know.. at a compression ratio of 9.0:1 (k-jet 8valve) 9 atmospheres ~ 131psi. or 9.01 bar if you poms are that way inclined.
cylinders 2 and 4 have rather extreme results, and i got the same over multiple tests. cylinder 2 seems more likley though.. i may as well take the head off anyway, cant hurt anyone (oooo shouldnt have said that..). its overdue for a cambelt and its got leaking exhaust at the headers so i may as well hit it all at once.
Unless you've got other signs of HG failure don't worry, e.g. loss of coolant, oil in water, mayo in oil, overheating, white smoke or black smoke, or any of the above!
I HAVE OVER HEATING PROBLEMS it haunts me everytime i encounter a line of traffic or a red light. thats with new thermostat, good coolant mix, fan on.. sigh.
as for the new radiator cap, ill grab one when i nip down to the vdub spares place. i might even pick up one of those bloody spline tools that nobody seems to have. and ill also get dad to skim the head at no extra cost :grin:. i also dont think ill charge myself for doing the cambelt either. save a bit of money for some petrol :sick:
cheers for the help !
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Bummer. Those test results don't look good. Was it a decent test kit, as those push on type one's are supposed to be a bit poo?
Euro car parts do a set of spline tools for around £11 IIRC, plus it comes with loads of other stuff like allen sockets etc. The spline set from halfords wasn't long enough for two of the head bolts on my 16v.
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yea 11 quid aye.. how much for shipping to new zealand? i might just use my torx set for this.. it worked for the starter motor and halfshafts. i just threw some allan cap screws in. these head bolts might be too tight for that approach though..
and yes it was a dodgy push on type. my screw in one did a runner.
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i think draper make the tool for the head bolts, should be able to get one out where you are
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I wouldn't try and get away with not using a spline bit on the cylinder head bolts - They are very tight and will need torqueing up very accurately when you replace them.
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^^ good point, dont take short cuts with this :)
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:laugh: Hehe... Alternatively say "f##k it" and use one of these...
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/93/Nail_in_a_block_of_wood.jpg/800px-Nail_in_a_block_of_wood.jpg)
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American styles.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g232/hob_the_builder/hammering-a-screw-thumb4469756.jpg)
is it highly compulsary to replace the head bolts with genuine vw bolts? if at all? cant i just raid the tool room for some hardened hex bolts?
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is it highly compulsary to replace the head bolts with genuine vw bolts? if at all? cant i just raid the tool room for some hardened hex bolts?
Are you being serious? :shocked:
Just in case you are... The head bolts are stretch bolts and can only be used once, plus they are a very specific size/thread pattern. I bought febi one's from http://www.vwspares.co.uk which are virtually OEM quality:
(http://www.vwspares.co.uk/images/02120.jpg)
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man, that is wack. sorry i even mentioned it..
oh its probably the saame for my saab aswell.. awesome.