GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: DRobbo on 09 January 2008, 20:21
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Getting round to finishing the car... Everything was looking good, if a little grubby... Just taking the front wheels off to have a gander...
Bugger it!
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p13/Big_Dave_123/IMG_2627.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p13/Big_Dave_123/IMG_2630.jpg)
Not sure if its just the rubber or the joint though... How can I see if its the CV joint? Should I just stick my head out the window and drive around on full lock and listen for any noises?
And if its just the rubber, is it easy to replace? Would super glue (BODGE ALERT!!!!) do for a while??
Thanks for your help asways... I'll get some pics up as soon as its been cleaned and isn't up on jacks! :grin:
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Shouldn't be anything to much to worry about, just a split CV boot. Someone told me how to replace it but damned if i can remember now!! Have a search around or at worst its not a lot to get done at a garage. :smiley:
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Yeah thats what I was reckoning... Just threw a strop when I saw it though, it's SO ANNOYING!!!!!... Super glue for now dya reckon?
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dont glue it.
but you can buy a new boot thats cut down the middle you wrap these around and glue. will work for abit and a diy job
get it done rite thou could get expensive. make sure you put loads ov grease as you dont wana dry it out then it will click
mark
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Its not that hard to do and for the price of the boot you may as well just replace it before the cv dries out and you end up replacing that
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Cheers...
Wheres the best place for buying??
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Cheers...
Wheres the best place for buying??
Depends how long you want the new one to last, bought my last one from vw
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The longer the better!
Do you know how much you paid??
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This is one of the jobs I did on the Golf I'm selling now. It really is a dead easy bit. Buy a proper kit suitable for that boot and here's how to do it......
Crack off wheel nuts (17mm).
Crack off hub nut (30mm).
Jack car and place on axle stand - place it under the sub-frame, as far out as possible
Remove road wheel
Remove hub nut
Remove the three M8 bolts underneath the bottom of the hub. Recover the triangular piece with the captive nuts from the top of the wishbone.
Swing strut out away and off the driveshaft - mind the flexible hose on the brake caliper
Note where the old boot comes to on the joint and the driveshaft, then take a Stanley knife and cut off the old boot
Grab hold of the splines at the end of the drivehaft and support the shaft
Take a soft-faced hammer and belt the inside outer edge of the joint - it will come off with a couple of good clouts. If you don't have a soft-faced hammer, protect the joint with a piece of wood when you clout it.
Pull off the plastic spacer and tensile washer. Note which way round they are. There should be a new set in the kit.
Clean up the joint and inspect the faces where the ball bearings roll - it's OK for some wear to be there, but you don't want the faces pitted - that's when it starts clicking
In the kit you will have a wire circlip. This goes on the end of the driveshaft - the old one will pull off with a screwdriver
You have a sachet of grease in the kit - it's the right amount for the job. Work 50% of the grease into the joint
Put the smaller clip over the driveshaft. Personally, I find it difficult to get these done up - I need to get the right tool. If the clip won't do up then use a heavy duty zip tie - it'll be quite effective enough.
Push the new boot over the end of the driveshaft
Refit the spacer and tension washer
Place the large metal band over the end of the boot
Take the joint and put it over the end of the driveshaft. Make sure the splines engage properly and it's started OK and, holding the driveshaft and joint straight wallop the end of the driveshaft with the soft-faced hammer, or with a normal hammer, but with some wood to protect the threads on the end of the driveshaft
Squeeze the rest of the grease into the boot.
Pull the boot over the joint
Tighten the clamp around either end of the boot, by whatever means you can suss out (any tips on this appreciated)
Swing the strut back over the driveshaft, align the splines and then push right on. Slip the thick washer and then the new 30mm nut from the kit over that. You won't be able to tighten this until the car's back on the ground.
Replace the three M8 bolts
If you've pulled the retaining rubber for the brake flexible hose off the strut, pull it back over
Replace the road wheel
Put the car back on the wheel
Tighten wheel bolts
Tighten 30mm nut
Done.
Let me know if I've forgotten anything :tongue:
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Remove the three M8 bolts underneath the bottom of the hub. Recover the triangular piece with the captive nuts from the top of the wishbone.
That can affect camber if you take them bolts out though unless you manage to line them back up in the same place, personally i found it easier to remove the front wishbone bolt which iirc is either a 17 or 19mm, you can then get enough clearance to remove the shaft from the hub
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I've done it both ways (oooo-errrr matron). Quite happy to stand corrected on the camber issue - on a lot ofolder Golfs there's a clear, clean area where the top plate was - should make it easy enough to replace it if you do it that way in that situation :smug:.
Otherwise - undo the single wishbone bolt that goes across the bottom of the wishbone - I remember I've had quite a bit of ballache using that method - can't remember exactly what, but I remember being annoyed!
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Wow! A whole guide, thanks for that! (Stick it in the HOW TO section perhaps?).... Thanks.
And just wondering, but why would super gluing the boot back together not be a good idea for a temporary fix? I will do it properly, but just out of interest...
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The boot is soaked in grease and has considerable lateral forces applied to it repeatedly, while having grease forced at and into it.
Your superglue ain't gonna hold for very long at all.
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Fair enough!! Thing is I have to go to Loughborough tomorrow... And time is short! But may just have to stay at home till its done... Sod Uni!
General grease OK to replace what I've lost?
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No, you need to replace the CV grease with CV grease - it's high temperature/high pressure stuff. Normal greas will break-down way too quickly. If you do put some in there as a temporary measure make sure when you do the job properly you get all the cheap grease out using a parts washer or similar.
The longer you leave it, the messier it's going to get in that wheelarch as the grease centrifuges out of the boot.
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The other thing is that superglue will dry out the rubber and make it crack and split, making the problem worse.