GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: ian00uk on 23 November 2007, 12:37
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just plugged my car into vagcom and ive got these codes. Anyone give me any advice?
1) 17608 Boost pressure control valve (n249)- havent a clue what this is.
2) 16684 Random/Multiple cylinder missfire detected
3) Cylinder 1 missfire detected
4)17705 Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve (check d.v)- i havent even got a d.v!
also did a readiness check and the only thing it failed on was cat monitor failed or not complete, everything else passed
any help people?
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What engine If its 1.8T could be your Black plastic Bosh DV? You said you done coil packs Spark plugs mabye?
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its a 1.8t aum engine.i have got no dump valve on the car.yeh few months ago had all 4 coil packs changed. spark plugs is a possibilty.
the boost pressure control valve is the one i need to really find out bout.
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its a 1.8t aum engine.i have got no dump valve on the car.yeh few months ago had all 4 coil packs changed. spark plugs is a possibilty.
the boost pressure control valve is the one i need to really find out bout.
I mean the standard Bosh plastic dv. Is the car remapped coz the standard dv internals fail for a pass time. Upgrage it to a forge 007p
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMCL007P
:wink:
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oh rite yeh i presume so. it use to have a atmospheric dv on the car which was taken off. yeh the car is remapped. would getting this sort that problem then. any idea on the boost pressure valve then?
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Yeah i think both those codes relate to the dv. Get some new plugs see if this sorts the misfire bout £20 from halfruds IIRC.
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These are all connected to the DV. Its recording a misfire, (no matter how small) as the car isn't getting a consistent air/fuel mix so can't time itself
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These are all connected to the DV. Its recording a misfire, (no matter how small) as the car isn't getting a consistent air/fuel mix so can't time itself
Yeah makes sense now you say that :shocked:
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just guna have to book it in somewhere lol
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Just a thought is the car playing up because you say it had an atmospheric dv which will throw up codes, But did you clear the codes after you removed the atmospheric dv??
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yeh i reset all the codes then took it for a drive and they all came up again. its annoying. i cant even put my foot down either cuz it stutters and acts like its guna blow my engine so im guessing its to do with the turbo as doesnt do it wen i accelerate gently
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yeh i reset all the codes then took it for a drive and they all came up again. its annoying. i cant even put my foot down either cuz it stutters and acts like its guna blow my engine so im guessing its to do with the turbo as doesnt do it wen i accelerate gently
Your DV has definately split mate, get yourself the Forge jobby and get it sorted ASAP
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so how wud the dv cause the car to stutter.if i gota get a new one i wud want one with sum sound saw a forge one with a blow off valve wud that be ok too?
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The diverter valve regulates the excess pressure from the turbo, if the valve is broken and the excess pressure not regulated it can back up and stall the turbo.
As your engine relies on the turbo to give its air intake, if the turbo stalls you get inconsistent or no air for the air fuel mix. Hence your stuttery engine under load.
As for the blow off valve, there is no issue in fitting one of these but the turbo works much better if the excess air is fed back to the exhaust side of the turbo, sort of like an anti lag just not as good.
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sweet sounds the problem then.il av to order one and see if that works.would the one with blow off valve do the same thing?
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missed that i modded my post above.
As for the blow off valve, there is no issue in fitting one of these but the turbo works much better if the excess air is fed back to the exhaust side of the turbo, sort of like an anti lag just not as good
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ok mate thanks for your help.il order one and hope that cures it :)
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Also check the vacuum line to the DV along it's entire length (its the small braided one). Over time they harden and get brittle from the engine heat.. when it cracks you get problems.
DVs that go PSSHHHFFFT! are about as cool as a Burberry shellsuit.
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thats guys will look into it
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DVs that go PSSHHHFFFT! are about as cool as a Burberry shellsuit.
Ha ha ha haaa LMFAO :grin:
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oh yeh just a quick one.if i get the diverter valve will this bypass the error code that comes up boost pressure contol valve(n249):mechanical malfunction or the code 17705 pressure drop between turo and throttle valve(check d.v)
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sz m8 cud only find a test for code: 16684...hope it helps tho
Fault reader V.A.G 1551 or vehicle system tester V.A.G 1552 with cable V.A.G 1551/3
Test box V.A.G 1598/31
Hand multimeter V.A.G 1526 or multimeter V.A.G 1715
Diode test lamp V.A.G 1527
Adapter set V.A.G 1594
Current flow diagram
Check conditions
● Engine speed sender must be OK,
● Fuel pump relay must be OK
● → Fuses 28 and 32 must be OK.
Test sequence
First check the activation of the injectors via final control diagnosis
Note:
To perform electrical check of No. 2 and 3 cyl. injectors/wiring, the manifold upper part must be removed.
If one or more injectors do not click:
Checking voltage supply
Pull connectors off injectors.
Connect diode test lamp to contact 1 and earth of relevant injector connector.
Operate the starter and check the voltage supply for the injector.
The LED must light up
If the LED does not light up:
Switch off ignition.
Check wire between 2 pin connector contact 1 and fuel pump relay (J17) for open circuit using current flow diagram.
Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω
Checking activation and voltage supply
Pull connectors off injectors.
Connect the diode test lamp V.A.G 1527 to the connector contacts of the injector to be tested using adapter cables from V.A.G 1594.
Operate starter and check the activation for the injector.
The LED must flicker
Note:
The flickering is difficult to see.
If the LED does not flicker:
Switch off ignition.
Connect test box V.A.G 1598/31 to control unit wiring harness. The engine control unit remains disconnected.
Check the wiring between the test box and connector for open circuit, short circuit to earth or positive using current flow diagram:
Injector 1: contact 2+socket 96
Injector 2: contact 2+socket 89
Injector 3: contact 2+socket 97
Injector 4: contact 2+socket 88
Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω
If no fault is detected:
Checking resistance of injectors
Check resistance of injector between contacts.
Specification: 14...18 ω
Note:
The resistance figures are valid for approx. 20 °C. At higher temperatures the resistance figures will increase.
If the specification is not attained:
Renew defective injector
Warning!
Fuel system is under pressure! Before opening the system remove fuse 28 and place a cloth around the connection. Then release pressure by carefully loosening the connection.
Erase fault memory to put learnt values in a neutral setting , Interrogating and erasing learnt values.
If the resistance values are OK and no wiring fault has been detected:
Renew engine control unit
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umm that sounds very confusing i dont get it lol
had forge diverter valve installed yest so will reset the codes and see what comes up
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nothing personal m8 ,but by just bypassing something dnt mean the main cause of ya fault shud be ignored,one bad fault code cud have been caused by another faulty component(s),thats y i posted the above bcus its a procedure to test the components for that code,no doubt thers another 2 procedures for ure other codes, after all testings dun ya shud av found yer main cause of ya fault..gl