GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: b4rks on 15 October 2007, 10:51
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So here it is.
Had my BELOVED mk2 8v Gti for a week now and covered an unexpected but very enjoyable thousand miles so far.
Only work done so far is one new tyre and an oil and water top up.
Now I know it's an old car and it's bound to have it's quirks, but I've got a thousand pounds to spend on it, and with that I'd like to get it as near perfect as I can manage. I don't want any crazy mods, just a well tuned, safe, strong car that I can give a bit of stick without fear of something falling off.
It's in very good nick at the moment (I think!!), the bodywork all looks sweet, and the engine (although using a bit of oil and smoking a bit when cold) is pulling better than I ever anticipated.
I'm no mechanic, but I have an understanding of what does what on a car - this is where the problem lies. I've got a list of 'symptoms' as it were, but what I don't want is to take it to a main dealer / specialist that is out to rinse me and end up chucking the money at things that aren't a priority.
Most of the problems are fairly little things -
Noisey bearings/CV joints (maybe even suspension mountings) at the front, knock a bit when turning and accelerating (at the same time) and occasionally when going over speed bumps etc.
The gear stick is lose (I've read about the hula hoop solution as it is forward/back play).
The engine mount is as lose as a goose at the front (the car has piper cams so judders like a crack addict on a come-down when crawling along in traffic - might also need a tune up)
The rev counter is intermittent (It may be a replacement dash, it may be a lose wire I don't have an ammeter to figure it out).
It could do with a new set of pads.
The clutch feels very heavy and not very smooth (the actual travel in the pedal that is, not the clutch itself - that appears sound).
The drivers door has dropped everso slightly.
The rubbers round the windows need replacing, and a general water proof check (there's some getting into the back footwell from somewhere when it gets soaked)
I think the valve stem oil seals (That was advice from someone else) need attention (or possibly the piston rings !!???) to try and resolve the smoke / oil loss.
CV boots need replacing.
Now from what I can tell none of this (apart from the piston rings if they are at fault) is a major job, and if only I had the know how and tools I'd try myself, alas, I don't so I need someone who's willing to look at it in depth, talk to me about what should be done in priority, and then DO IT!!
I love my golf even with it's faults. I paid £1800 for it (probably over the odds) so I'd hope there isn't anything too nasty I didn't spot. I realise the insurance companies will pay out nowhere near that should the worst happen but I'm willing to take the risk, get it running sweetly then drive it like a granny if I can so much as see another car on the road!!
I live near Gloucester, but am willing to drive pretty much anywhere to find the right bloke (or woman, hey let's be PC here!!) to do the work. Lots of mechanics don't seem to be into doing this sort of thing though I've noticed, so I'm hoping ideally to find a golf lover that's happy to sacrafice a saturday/sunday with a workshop into getting mine totally beautiful again.
Any advice, as always, would be great.
Ric.
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Hi there have you had a look through 'the good guys' section?
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?board=21.0
might have some luck there :wink:
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Ah, I didn't find that thread.
Cheers fused I'll have a look.
If there's anyone out there who wants to earn a few hundred quid for christmas though, let me know.
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P.M sent :wink:
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1. Sounds like it could be either top mounts or CV joints, both not too bad if you have the right tools
2. Linkage replacement will fix that, I've put together a nice big FAQ on the subject, easy days work :)
3. Easy peasy, support engine, remove 2 bolts & 1 nut, then jack up the engine as high as you can till you cen get the mount out, fit replacement. I recommend the 1.3 boded rubber items from http://www.vwspares.co.uk
4. I'd start with checking wires at the coil, then look at the braided earth cable from the side of the head to the coil bracket
5. Can be tricky if you have 239 brakes as the caliper hex bolts like to round out. Get a new set of bolts + new plastic slieves from VW. If you have 256 or 280s its a bit easier :)
6. A new manual clutch cable should be the first thing to try, if that doesn't help then a new clutch is required :(
7. You can do it the right way by removing the door & bashing out the hinge pins and fitting new ones, or you can bend the hinges with the old 'bolt in the door' trick :grin:
8. Window lower slot seals arn't that much from VW, but the main ones are quite steep! As for waterproofing can't put it much better than the guide on http://www.matey-matey.com. I'd look at the door card vapour barriers and sunroof drains.
9. Stem seals require the head to be taken off, and rings are an engine strip down, both major operations. If I were you I'd purchase a nice 2e 2.0 8v bottom end and fit along with a nice refurbed head, maybe go for a ported one :)
10. Since you also have knocking round corners & on throttle, I'd seriously consider fitting a pair of new CV joint kits up front.
Gloucester is quite a drive from me unfortunatly!
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Rubjonny,
Cheers for the reply chap, sounds like you know your stuff...... sure you're not up for a minor project?
That's all good stuff, with regards to the engine replacement if it is the piston rings, is that a mamouth job? I've heard others mention the 2.0 8v bottom end - but as mentioned in my earlier post I'm not sure what differences that'd make. .... and you say you can fit it along with a standard head?
Sorry to be Mr. novice, can you give me a brief run down on what that conversion would entail, and the results it would provide? I'm assuming it'd be worth replacing all the relevant belts/gaskets/ancillary pumps etc at the same time if the engine's comming off? Includingparts and labour, whats a ball park on the costings involved?
Think I need to invest in some mechanic evening classes or something..... that's sort of what I was after with this post, best case scenario I wan't a VW enthusiast with workshop who'll spend the day showing me how to fix my car..... surely someone's got to be up for it for I dunno £250 for the day?? I'll bring all the relevant parts with me?
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rubjonny is wicked on these cars, hes done a load of work to mine....
if ur willing to travel up to bracknell i would suggest chatting to john and see if hes up for it
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hi i dont know how much you know about cars but from the post you must have a good idea.
these cars especially he 8v are so simple so spend some of the money on a manual and tools as an idea i did one last yr (8v gti) for my friend who does high milage and i got all bearings, running gear, suspension, brake discs and pad/ wt pump all service iems cam bely hydralic lifters etc for about 350.00 after thats he could wash polish and get minor bdy wk sorted in his own time
as for valves or rings, when the car is not running the stem seals cool down contract and then on start up oil from the top end that has drained down into cylinders will be burnt on start up, the rings will be consistently gapped so if the oil burn is apparent on start up then its a good indication thats where the issue is, if there is is no running issues and consumption is constant, then this can be done in yr own time, do the stem seals regrind yr valves and try it then, compression test it once done and if its even and within tolerance it will be fine, but its not life threatening to the engine.
outer cv joints and top mounts for the suspension will sort out the knocking the full lock test will highlight the problem but with yr budget o them both anyway
yr in the right area for the rev counter and anyone ho talks of ammiters must have a good understanding of logical fault inding for that.
if you have access to a bearing press you may as well change the fronts as the are parallel bearings that need to be pressed out then in of the hubs, and you will have those bits in yr hands when you do the outer cv joints.
gear shift repair is simple replace all the plastic guides and get both ball joint sections long and short, they sell alignment tools on ebay which are good so you can happily adjust the postion afterwards it can be done anyway its just more precise.
a friend and you can tell the generation advised me to always run my gearbox with an extra "half pint" and he is right and every mk2 ive had ive always overfilled the box.
discs pads etc are a doddle to change do the rear wheel bearings at the same time, with yr budget you can make it pretty much all new running gear and service items, dont pay anyone to do it, get the book and just do it, they are so imple and there is a very satifying feeling knowing that not only did you do it, but you did it right
good luck
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moimo - Don't get me wrong I'm well up for learning how to do it..... I just don't want to risk it first time round, not do a bolt up properly and stuff it into a tree. But cheers for taking the time to explain things a bit further, it is becoming more and more clear which bits are at fault. Was considering getting the engine rebuilt with the money, but after what you've said it'd be nice to replace all the running parts, then just drive the engine until it needs major attention?? Hmmmm....
Rubjonny - nowhere's too far, I don't mind dropping it off with all the parts bunging you a few quid, and either leaving you to it for the day, or sticking around and you can show me around the old girl? If you're not interested of course, no worries.
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Sounds like a long day :laugh:
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weekend?? ;)
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OK, not to worry chaps - I realised from the outset it was a big ask, and obvioulsy everyone else is as busy as me up until christmas.
I've decided to go down a different road, I'm going to buy all the bits needed for the old girl, then get a 'trusted' mechanic to chuck it all on.
So if you've got the time, I want to replace all the cheap/easy bits running gear wise, plus the couple of other misc things I know need doing.....
I've had a look through the good guys section, but it's massive..... web sites for purchasing bits? Where's the best place? I'm after brake discs/pads all round, new bearings front and back, cv boots (infact probably the whole assembly) suspension mountings, gear selector bearings, engine mounts and all the service filters.
Can anyone think of anything else that I might aswell have done whilst it's on the ramp and costing me money?
I'm in a position where I've got a bit to spend (which may not happen again for a while) so I'd like to get it as spot on as I can......
It's an H plate 8v'er.
Thanks in advance.
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I know of a very good mechanic in Cornwall who specialises in vw's if you're interested. I've had loads of work done on my Golf with them and am very pleased with the results. If you're interested PM me and I'll give you contact details.
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For anyone that's intersted:
After a lot of asking around friends and golf lovers in the area took the car to the most highly recommended mechanic I could find on Friday, giving him a maximum budget (how trusting of me!) and said get to work. Ordered some drilled and grooved discs and pads from volksbits and an engine mount, so told him to do those, a full service and anything else he could find that needed attention.
All was going well until about half two when he phoned and said the cariier bolts on the brakes had rounded so it was going to be a mission (there was even the suggestion that it might require the subframe coming out!) as luck would have it, he managed to get it all done fairly easily and I got it back that evening.
The following was done:
Engine flush
Oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, dizzy cap and arm, n/s and o/s outer CV boots, ns and os rear bearings and antifreeze. Plus the brakes and engine mount. 6 hours labour, came to 460 quid which I thought was alright.
He also said:
The n/s track rod end was split.
The o/s top strut mounting was worn.
The wishbone bushes were worn
Anti roll bar links worn
The tracking was out - but to leave that until after the strut mount, and track rods were done, otherwise it'd only need doing again.
The rear shocks were a bit damp
-and the dash is spent meaning I've got no oil light or rev counter.
Apart from that though he told me there was no rust or welding underneath, that it had had a new o/s rear panel, but he guessed that was done along with a fuel filler repair as it was pristine. Said though that it was totally straight, running really well and a nice car, which brought a smile - i was fearing the worst all day.
So not quite there yet, but it is coming along nicely. Driving a thousand times better though, no juddering in traffic, purring sweetly and a lot more responsive. He did say to try using Super unleaded as it was pinking(?) under pressure and the cams may have been set up (they're piper high lifts) to work best with super unleaded - filled it up with said fuel, and low and behold, it's a million times better.
Treated it to a cheap 12" FLI active sub from halfrauds this morning cos I could barely hear any bass notes over the exhaust and induction kit, and I must say I've had a lot of installs in cars in the past, and for 120 quid - it really aint bad..... but maybe that's down to the nakamich cd400 that came with the car? :)
Only remaining questions then are:
Are any of the bits listed above going to be a nightmare to find, or will a quick browse round the internet provide all?
I've got different sized tyres on the fron and the back, the wheels are standard 15" BBS, and the car is lowe3red 40mm - i didn't notice until it was brought to my attention, so which size should I ideally have?
It's still losing a fair bit of water, but apparently he left i running in the garage, and there were no obvious leaks, so I guess it must be getting into the engine somehow :( the head gasket and radiator have not long been done - any ideas??
ah......... essay over.
Ric.