GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: ChrisO GolfO on 13 September 2007, 20:06
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Hi All,
Just thought I would post up here, havnt done for ages mind! A while ago I posted about this issue but totally forgot and it was a bunch of other probs too. My fuel guage dosnt work on my Mk2 Digi. I did a search on the forum and someone posted about this and a reply said, "Take the fuel sender coupling off and short the wires to see if the guage moves. I have taken some pics but dont know which wires to short and what the hell is the home made white thing!?!?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/demoni/GTI/SP_A0055.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/demoni/GTI/SP_A0056.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/demoni/GTI/SP_A0053.jpg)
Cheers :smiley:
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any one know anything about this at all?
oh and how easy is it to get at the dash guages?
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had the same problem, ran my own cables through the fuel pump assembly lid and all works fine. It could be the small metal needle inside the fuel pump assembly not touching properly as the float moves up and down or just a bad connection somewhere underneith.
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Well that might explain the white connection near the pump assy I will try to have look on this one and I might try to take the dash off, I know quite a few people have done this what sort of job is it to do?
Cheers,
Chris
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You don't need to take the dash off to get the clocks out.
Remove all the switches on the dash panel (fogs, hazards, headlights etc) along with the heater trim. Also remove your stereo and then you will see a few screws which need to be undone. Once you've got them all the dash surround comes off and you can unscrew the clocks and take them out. :smiley:
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Ahh cheers bud! Would have been there on the weekend cursing at the dash! Its all good, just waiting for the weekend now.
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Thought i would up date ya's,
Found a second hand set of clocks, with 120mph guages, got it for 20 quid, so picking up these on weekend so i can have a look at them, think when my ones got taken out to fit some white dials they didnt put everything back like they should. so going to have a go at fitting these new ones!
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are ur own gauges 140mph? if so you'll need a different speedo drive on the gearbox end of the speedo cable to run the 120mph clocks
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Well im glad you said that Gam! Didnt get the clocks in the end got dicked about in Tesco waiting for the knobber to turn up and he never did so sod it. I just took half facia apart to get at guages and guess what half the screws were well loose. talk about botch job. gonna carry on tomorrow want me to take pics for a step by step?
Cheers Chris
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Just thought i would update,
Took clocks out at weekend nothing wrong with them, where am i gonna find the best price for a new fuel sender unit and water temp sender unit?
Cheers,
Chris
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Right just been out in the freezing cold,
Got the sender unit out of the fuel tank this afternoon. Looked at it all over, and checked it looks okay there is no punctures in float. I have been reading some threads on the forum using search function but nothing that really helps. Closest I got to anything was shorting two wire purple n black and the brown one. Have tried this with some wire but unsure if i had a good conection or if I was doing it right. Can anyone help. Bright side is the car has almost full tank of fuel!! :smiley:
Cheers
Chris
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I got a sender unit in my garage if all else fails! Have you checked it with a ohmeter and voltmeter? Check for voltage off the wiring, :laugh: remember the ignition has to be on! :laugh: do one terminal at a time with neg to earth, there should be something on the meter. Take the sender out try the ohmeter on terminals hold them on and move the float up and down, the ohmeter reads 0.000 when its a full tank, >0.001 when its below full, the float moving changes the readings if it works right. Its a bit like a dimmer switch in the house on the lights controlled by the fuel level. Good luck, hope you understand what I mean!!! :huh:
:wink:
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you need to bridge pin 1 & pin 2 on the level sender plug, this shouls make the fuel gauge shoot to max. If not the wiring or clocks are shot!
To check if its the wiring, get behind the fusebox and disconnect plug M, then with the bridging wire in the lift pump plug still connected check across pin 3 & 6 for continuity (vio/blk & blk/brn wire)
Check my fusebox FAQ for more info, to drop the fusebox 1st remove the dash under tray, then pop off the 2 white clips either side of the fusebox. Push the left side of the fusebox hanger to the left to disengage the locking tab then lift it up and pull towards you. To disconnect the fusebox plug you 1st have to pup the locking tab on the back of the fusebox across.
P.S. its very important that all the nuts/bolts on the rear of the fusebox are done up tight, and you'll notice the nuts are behind the temp & fuel gauges, not only do they hold the gauges in but they also provide the electrical contacts, so make sure there are no fibre washers or anything like that on them!
Good luck!
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I got a sender unit in my garage if all else fails! Have you checked it with a ohmeter and voltmeter? Check for voltage off the wiring, :laugh: remember the ignition has to be on! :laugh: do one terminal at a time with neg to earth, there should be something on the meter. Take the sender out try the ohmeter on terminals hold them on and move the float up and down, the ohmeter reads 0.000 when its a full tank, >0.001 when its below full, the float moving changes the readings if it works right. Its a bit like a dimmer switch in the house on the lights controlled by the fuel level. Good luck, hope you understand what I mean!!! :huh:
:wink:
Tried this today as I was measuring with the multimeter the readings kept cutting out like it was not making a good connection, kept jumping between 100 odd and OC which means dead connection. I think it could be screwed.
you need to bridge pin 1 & pin 2 on the level sender plug, this shouls make the fuel gauge shoot to max. If not the wiring or clocks are shot!
To check if its the wiring, get behind the fusebox and disconnect plug M, then with the bridging wire in the lift pump plug still connected check across pin 3 & 6 for continuity (vio/blk & blk/brn wire)
Check my fusebox FAQ for more info, to drop the fusebox 1st remove the dash under tray, then pop off the 2 white clips either side of the fusebox. Push the left side of the fusebox hanger to the left to disengage the locking tab then lift it up and pull towards you. To disconnect the fusebox plug you 1st have to pup the locking tab on the back of the fusebox across.
P.S. its very important that all the nuts/bolts on the rear of the fusebox are done up tight, and you'll notice the nuts are behind the temp & fuel gauges, not only do they hold the gauges in but they also provide the electrical contacts, so make sure there are no fibre washers or anything like that on them!
Good luck!
Tried bridging pins vio/blk and a thick brown wire nothing on fuel guage, the pins go something like brown, colour, blk/vio and then i think yellow and something. If i follow the wire back something leads off it to a white connection which has a simple red and black wiring kinda home made so to speak could this be causing head aches? Had to come in as it was bloody freezing.
Have yet to test fuse box but if all else fails do you think a qualified sparky could do it? I have about 100 pounds cash hey its up for grabs if you can solve it!!! :smiley: :wink:
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doesnt sound right to me?
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I will check it out and take some proper decent pics of the wiring on the weekend then we can all see what it looks like, will be too dark when i get in tonight. Hopefully be able to get to the bottom of it all but I know it deffo shouldnt be jummping arround on readings like that.