GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk5 => Topic started by: Bobman on 09 September 2007, 17:19
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Hi all, having sold my 306 GTi-6 yesterday, I'm about to buy a 5 door, DSG MkV - all in time for the baby that started the whole process arriving in 8 weeks! So I've defected from 306gti6.com to here... hello!
I'm pretty set on a 54-plate, 5 door, DSG, paddle shift with about 30k on the clock from a VW dealer. Before I see it this week, I would be really grateful if anyone's got any advice around the following -
- anything to look out for on the older MkVs? Changes in spec etc? Classic mechanical issues?
- advice on buying from the dealer? VW-specific haggling tips?
- major maintenance issues around 30k miles i.e. that might affect the price I should pay? anything to check it's had done? anything that will need doing soon?
- any other general 'wish-I'd-known-that-when-I-bought-it' type stuff?
Thanks a lot for your help.
cheers, Rob, the wife and bump.
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Hi Rob and welcome to the forum.
Firstly good choice with DSG, you wont regret it.
Make sure it has had the recent ECU update, not sure if it affects your model year, but worth asking.
One common fault with Golfs in general is noisy power steering at slow speeds. If I was you I'd drive round in tight circles slowly and see if you can hear anything.
Make sure the tyres have a decent amount of trend and all four match.
One of my regrets is not getting factory fitted Bi-xenon headlamps, as these can't be legally retro fitted (no matter what some people will tell you). This may not bother you, but a nice thing to have.
Are the alloys in good nick? If they are 18" and scuffed, very expensive to get repaired, if 17", easier and cheaper. This is because the 18" wheel has two tone paint, and have to be sent away to be repaired, and so cant for instance be repaired by one of the mobile repair guys, such as Chipsaway.
Has it been serviced recently and what kind of servicing is it on, time and distance or long life?
I say this as my car left the dealer won long life, i.e. 2 years and I have since found out VW changed their minds with regards to how often a high performance car should be serviced and now suggest they are on time and distance, i.e. 1 year.
Can't think of anything else, but I'm sure everyone else will chip in. :nerd:
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WELCOME ABOARD!!, ok things to look for, ok if your buying from a dealer on a 54 reg with 30k should be valued at a starting price of £15995, the more extras the car has will bump up the price, ie DSG (awsome), bi xenon lights, highline dashboard computer as may not be able to update later.(midline computer only has half the digi gizmo's),.If the car has the above extra's and all alloys are in good condition,(especially if it has Monza II 18' wheels, prepared to purchase around the £17-18k mark
Things to look or listen for, knock from steering rack at parking or reversing speed,( vw warranty issue and Known fault.).Corroded alloys, ie white worms on front face and rust on wheel hubs behind them (you will see).Spec wise, the early models are really the same as current 2007 models so you wont dip out in that department.What colour is it?????, and if you list the spec, we should be able to judge abit better.
MORE EXTRAS INSTALLED ON THE BETTER THE CAR!! look at vw's extras list. you wont be disapointed, great car to own, had mine a year and still love to nip out in it for any reason!.
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Fantastic, thanks guys. Will take a nice list with me to question the dealer with!
Re the PAS noise – I’m not very mechanical, would the noise be obvious? How does it sound? I presume this noise is different to the ‘knock from the steering rack’ – similarly, any more of a steer (excuse the pun) on what to listen out for? (sorry, I’m not very technical)
From what I’ve found out so far, spec is:
- DSG and 5 door
- Tornado red
- MFSW (pleased about this, as handling the radio from the wheel is something I really like. Also, REALLY crucially, I am praying for paddles too. I went to drive a DSG and it turned out NOT to have paddles – assumed all DSGs had them – and it’s just pointless!)
- Headlamp wash (presume this means winter pack?)
- Heated door mirrors (is that winter pack, or connected to being ‘electrically folding’? – hope the latter as I live on a narrow street!)
- heated leather seats
- 17†(my preference – for ride and aesthetically)
- ‘Driver information system’ and ‘Trip computer’ – is this the mid/high-line?
- Xenons
- 6x CD and armrest
- DVD sat-nav (looks basic i.e. 2D plan view, compared with other ones I’ve seen – but never used one, so can’t really comment as to whether it’s any cop?)
- Cruise control
- ‘inclination sensor alarm’ – no idea what this is..?
So a pretty great spec – only other ‘nice-to-have’ would be the rear parking sensor. Also, I’ll probably get an MP3 input (not iPod), which I presume is best done NOT in the main dealer?
It’s on for 17k, but I’d dearly like to bring this down – baby on the way, hence needing 5 doors.
Btw the spec mentions an Immobiliser. For the purposes of getting insurance, I presume we have a standard factory immobiliser and alarm?
Thanks again peeps.
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Paddles were an option at first if I remember correctly.
Cat1 alarm and imob as standard (check the the thatcham site).
It will have the highline comp with the sat-nav.
ok.
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Hi Rob and welcome to the forum.
Nicely specced motor that :cool:
Couple more things to think about:-
At 40k miles a DSG gearbox should have its oil and filter changed - circa £200
If you are buying a car near or past this mileage either ask for it to be done before buying or check that it has been done.
Ask for the latest DVD maps thrown in for the satnav as there is nothing worse than having an out of date nav system sending you the wrong way on a one way street :embarassed:
Headlamp wash is standard with Xenon headlights
Heated door mirrors are standard on GTI
Inclination sensor is linked to the main alarm system of the car and detects if someone is trying to nick your car by loading it onto a lowloader by dragging it up a ramp.
Oh, and one more thing......enjoy!!!!!
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yes just adding what hurdy said about sat nav cd rom, a 2007 disc costs £130!!, do try and get stealer to replace the 2004 version disc which should be in the sat nav unit. You have a similar spec to mine, that is well kitted out!!. rear parking sensors are a cheap job and can be done easily after purchase.Also check the car has had a break fluid change in its life, if not refuse car unless there is written proof in service log.(should be part of 2 year service check).Do check air con system is working well, whether it smells when in econ mode, or lack of use will cause seals to leak and loss of argon.Is it full leather or tartan interior?, have close look at seat bolsters aswell, especially drivers seat.
HTH
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Agree with everything else here.
For my part, make sure the car has had annual services on the 'time and distance' regime as opposed to the 'longlife' option. I would not go for any car, let alone a sports hatch, that has only been serviced at 2 years or 20k miles, which is possible on the longlife.
The alloys are a key area, as the Monza's have some history of corrosion, especially around the rims - look for the white worms and insist any kerbed or damaged wheels are either replaced or refurbished prior to purchase.
The Xenons are usually relaible but check the self-leveling operation and the auto headlight sensor function. Both can be problematic. Buying from a VW dealer means you will get the balance of the 3 year warranty and at least 12 months cover. This can be extended for peace of mind - try negotiating with the dealer to throw in an extra 12 months.
Cass
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Hi Guys,
I will probably be getting one this week too. Thanks for the advice, I wear bear it in-mind.
Question about the servicing.. I understand if it is a longlife service, the service intervals are variable. What is they based on?
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Basically your driving style and typical use of the vehicle - the cars computer monitors this and adjusts the longlife servicing interval accordingly.
Longlife is recommended for predominately motorway cruising at steady speeds with limited engine loads. Time and distance is for more urban stop/start and high revving driving styles - it is a GTI after all :wink:
Longlife has basically been developed to cut down servicing and running costs for the 'company driver'. Not for me thanks.
Cass
Edit - See TT's comprehensive servicing write up here:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=65779.0
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From a purchasing position, wait until the last day of the month if you can. Out of the three dealers I spoke to, nobody was offering much of a deal until the last day of June. I ended up putting a deposit on a car that I'd seen on the dealers web site, it was a bit of a risk but I knew I could get my deposit back if I didn't ike it when I finally got time to look at it. I saved about £3K and got a very good finance deal out of it.
Phil
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Yep very ture, I looked around and went into most dealers in the south to get a deal on my ed30.
None of them would even give me £50 off!
Went back at the end of the month and got 1k off!
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Hi there, all being well, tomorrow's the big day. Couple of last minute questions:
The Xenons are usually relaible but check the self-leveling operation and the auto headlight sensor function. Both can be problematic.
- how do I check the Xenons self-levelling?
- how do I check the auto-headlight sensor? Presume I find somewhere dark and see if they come on - might be tough in the midday sun! Any tips?
For my part, make sure the car has had annual services on the 'time and distance' regime as opposed to the 'longlife' option. I would not go for any car, let alone a sports hatch, that has only been serviced at 2 years or 20k miles, which is possible on the longlife.
- is switching to 'time and distance' servicing easily done in the showroom, or do I need to allow time for the workshop to do it?
Make sure it has had the recent ECU update, not sure if it affects your model year, but worth asking.
- any more info on the ECU upgrade? what's at stake if I don't have it?
Things to look or listen for, knock from steering rack at parking or reversing speed,( vw warranty issue and Known fault.).
- any more info on the power steering noise - is it a knocking, grinding, quiet/loud (sorry, not too hot on mechanical stuff!)
Thanks a lot (again!) everyone, much appreciated.
cheers! :grin:
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Xenons - simple check at start up. Switch on lights and look for self levelling action of lamps with car facing a wall. They will auto-adjust and self-set at the appropriate level. Auto headlamps operation can be tested during daylight and dusk running or when driven through a tunnel or when parked in the shade. Lights come on automatically at high speed and should go off at below 40ish after 2 mins or so.
Time/Distance - Simple function for dealer to set the car up and to record on their system. Should be done in seconds and prior to delivery.
ECU upgrade - dealer should advise and make any necessary upgrade. If the car is new it should have the most up to date software.
Power steering - faulty racks were evident on early 2005 cars and current model should not be a problem. Racks will groan on full/partial lock. Also check for some steering play at the 12 o'clock position when driving in a straight line - eg dual carriageway driving, not urban/street driving. I have this issue and the issue will be checked out when the car is going in for service next week.
Don't worry - enjoy :smug:
Cass
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and some pic's wont go a miss bobman when you collect her. highest priority to post pics on here before blitzin'it down the road :wink:
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Thanks Cass, great advice.
Back from the dealer - good news and bad: did a deal (money off, 6 months tax, full tank) and paid my money... but the car's not ready. Loaned me a Polo GTI until they drop the Golf off on Friday.
(re the Polo, thought it would remind me of my old Clio but, although quick in 1st and 2nd, not much fun - and v. thirsty!).
So, assuming you're all interested! - DSG, paddles, 5 door, 2004, 33,000 miles, Tornado red, Sat Nav/MFSW/Hi-line, leather, winter pack, electrically folding mirrors, 17" Monzas, Xenons, 6x CD and armrest, cruise control - and 6m tax!
Delay is due to some bits being done: full service, 2x new tyres (other 2 are near new), 4x pads and disks, gearbox oil and filter change, break fluid change. They're servicing the aircon, confirming no PAS/rack noise and lights sensor/levelling are working. Sorting the ECU update and trying to blag me the latest sat nav DVD... which is nice.
Apart from the delay, am well chuffed (particularly as another dealer - with poorer service - offered a similar spec and mileage car - albeit a 2006 - for 5.5k more). Service has been spot on: taking it off the market with a no-questions deposit from me (apparently lots of calls about it since!), bringing it from Oxfordshire to London to show to me at work, lending me the Polo, and finally dropping it off in London on Friday.
They also fielded all my questions with a smile. Very pleased with them and, assuming they do everything they've promised, I can give them a glowing reference in the 'the good guys' thread.
Regards the tyres: great to have what are essentially 4 new ones, but the consensus on the board seems to be that Dunlop ain't good - have got Dunlop SP Sport 01As (225/45Z R17).
- do these perform very differently to the widely slated Dunlop Sport Maxx's (as run by you Cass?)?
- how do you assess tyre performance? (I read a thread about instability at speed - best avoid that!)
- if I invested in Michelin Pilot Sport SP2's, would I even notice the difference?
FYI I only a do few '000 miles per year, all conditions, rarely very fully loaded car, so need an all rounder: trust in wet and dry, stable at motorway speeds, safe on twisty B-roads, not too loud!
You may have gathered, I'm not a real tyre buff, so feel feel to explain this in very basic terms!
cheers
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Well done Bob sounds like you got a sound deal there and VERY good service :smug:
Yes, I have the Dunlop Sport Maxx tyres (18") and I have to say that apart from the excessive road noise (from £1k miles), I have no real issue with them. Good in dry or wet. I am not hard on my tyres and I have used mostly Pirelli P Zeros previously. I have driven the car at speed :rolleyes: and not noticed any instability issues. I'll rotate my tyres so the wear evens out and when I come to replace them I'll probably give the Michelins a go. Can't really comment on any other brands but my Audi TT had Dunlops and the Boxster had the Pirelli's.
Cass
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Thanks again Cass, I'm sure tyre choice is all a bit like child care - you kind of have to work it out for yourself.
And, also like kids, once you've made your choice, there's no going back...! at least for quite a few '000 miles anyway... (if anyone from social services is listening, I appreciate that's where the analogy falls down!) :wink:
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Delay is due to some bits being done: full service,
Ask them EXACTLY what spec of oil they are using. Also, double check the service history. If was previously on LongLife, then I'd personally consider avoiding the car, but as you have already paid your deposit, you're now stuck with it.
2x new tyres (other 2 are near new), 4x pads and disks,
Hmmm . . . sounds like it has lead a hard life, if it needs new discs and pads all round after just 33k.
Service has been spot on: taking it off the market with a no-questions deposit from me
Erm, they are legally meant to "take it off the market" once they have a deposit and contract to purchase (which is what the deposit was specifically paid for).
Regards the tyres: great to have what are essentially 4 new ones, but the consensus on the board seems to be that Dunlop ain't good - have got Dunlop SP Sport 01As (225/45Z R17).
- do these perform very differently to the widely slated Dunlop Sport Maxx's (as run by you Cass?)?
Dunlop arn't horrendously shyte - but there are much better, and also much worse tyres available.
- how do you assess tyre performance? (I read a thread about instability at speed - best avoid that!)
For a "high performance" tyre, which the GTI chassis deserves, then it is simply classed as grip, grip, grip! :evil:
Seriously, tyres are a compromise, but all tyres should be able to support the weight of the vehicle. Unfortunately, there are many reports of the SportMaxx suffering from static deformation - not good, as that indicates a weak carcass.
The SportMaxx also suffer from aquaplaning even with pleanty of remaining tread. This is a known characteristic of directional tyres (which is why the major tyre manufacturers are going to assymetric). The SP Sport 01A are a bit of a "bastard child" compromise, in that half the tyre is based on the SportMaxx, and the other half is some assymetric "hash".
- if I invested in Michelin Pilot Sport SP2's, would I even notice the difference?
Oh, abso-fookin-lutely . . . . but not if you drove like a Granny!
My own GTI came with SportMaxx as standard, and they are a fairly poor attempt at a high performance tyre. I have now worn an axle pair, and replaced them with PS2s, and you can really notice the difference. Under hard cornering, the end with the Dunlops jumps and skips sideways over imperfections (potholes, cats eyes, white lines, overbanding, ironworks), whereas the end with the Michelins is absolutely rock steady. The PS2s run at a lower pressure, and are also much more comfortable than the Dunlops. The PS2 wet weather performance advantage over the Dunlops is so dramatic, I'm actually considering binning the Dunlops with 5mm of tread still remaining! (Won't be a first time I've ditched nearly new tyres)
FYI I only a do few '000 miles per year, all conditions, rarely very fully loaded car, so need an all rounder: trust in wet and dry, stable at motorway speeds, safe on twisty B-roads, not too loud!
If you like pushing your car hard, and wish to rely on a no-compromise tyre, then the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 is the ONLY tyre to have.
However, as you are on 17" rims, (and the PS2 isn't available in that size), then you should strongly consider the Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2.