GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk1 => Topic started by: G60GTI16V on 07 September 2007, 13:40
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I went into town last night (which is a walk away so wasnt to hard getting home) and the engine died it died as i put the clutch in (engine was idling) reved it then as it dropped it died, failed to start if left for a min then try again it fires for a split second then dies again and still nothing. i have noticed when i do this sometimes my rev counter needle go a bit nuts. It has done this whole thing before and i left the car for a few hours and came back and it started. I did the same when i came back to the car 7 hours later so it was proper cold start. Turned it over still nothing, i have changed the plugs at this stage (it has new coil & HT's as i changed these a week ago. after plug change still nothing. Got some brandex easy start took the inlet hose of the air box sprayed a bit and hey it ran for a second again.
The engine is a k-jet
So i have come to a point that its firing and burning the brandex so there must not be any fuel entering.
I read through the handy haynes manual and it metions the cold start valve which is the 5th injector bolted to the side of the inlet manifold a cracked the banjo bolt open a little and petrol pis*ed out, did the same on the banjo for the fuel in after the fuel filter to the metering head and spss petrol is compressed for feed.
In the hynes it says the cold start valve is ran by the thermotime switch which is on the outlet (return) water pipe.
Do you think it is this that is not working correctly either the cold start valve or thermotime switch?
I did pull one of the injectors out and turned it over and nothing came out, i reffered to the haynes and it says these only spray if the engine is warm/hot started. It also mentions to check the fuel pump relay, but i have put my hand on the fuel pump when turning over and it is feeding (i can feel it pulsing).
Please please help i start my new job monday and need her going again maybe someone else has had a similar issue.
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Time to get that new engine fitted mate!!!!!
You only have 2 1/2 weeks for Brands!
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i know just starting a new job monday so engine change day has been changed tilll... i dont know :shocked:
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Hope you get it running for monday then!!!!!
Ill be at Brands but may not have the MK3, considering a MK2 16v 3 door!!!!
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dappy rev counter is a symptom of a dying hall sender in the dizzy, check the wires havent snapped there!
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if your getting no fuel to 1 of the 4 injectors and the pump is running, maybe the fuel filter is blocked ?
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but the haynes manual states that if its cold start the only injector that sprays is the cold start valve bolted to the side of the inlet manifold... oh and i have cracked open the banjo after the filter and theres loads of pressured fuel there.
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dappy rev counter is a symptom of a dying hall sender in the dizzy, check the wires havent snapped there!
I was thinking ignition amplifier/TCI switch - which is where those wires go :smiley:
I've got a spare dizzy with loom & amp if you want to try any of them
:undecided: Actually, with you're fuel pump problems as well it could very well be a wet fusebox, did it start playing up after it rained? (mine has :sad:)
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is the amplifier the vacuum amp or the switch unit for ignition?
dan
ps the fuel pump issue is not mine my friend is after one thats all.
fuse box is dry man.
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mk1mad is on about the thing bolted to a bracket in the rain tray area :)
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ye the switch unit for ignition which is bolted to a heat sink.
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yup that be the puppy
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i had the same problem the car would misfire occasionally at 70mph and would cut out sometimes after an hours driving sometimes 10 minutes... wouldnt start up for around 20 minutes and tehn would be ok for another 10...
was an absolute nightmare
i changed the metering head, fuel filter, coil, ht leads, dizzy cap, dizzy, fair few other bits as well only to find out that the hall sender was buggered. swapped in for a new dizzy and the car fired up and has been brill ever since...
there is a slight hesitation in the car, driving along at 2-3k rpm, very slight and just feels like its juddering ever so slightly and sometimes the car takes a couple of cranks to turn over but could be due to the timing is slightly out (as it was done by ear) getting it properly done with a strobe and marking all the points so i can do it by hand proprerly next time
Cheers
Saf
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shes recently had a metering head, injectors and pipes replacement new fuel pump ect. the dizzy cap looks new but the bottom part does look like its been bolted to the engine all along how much am i looking at for the bottom part?
dan
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you won't find get a new one but I've got a known good one if its any use. where in kent are you? anywhere near bromley?
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Ashford... of j 9 m20
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK1-MK2-1800-DISTRIBUTOR-COMPLETE-NEW-FREE-P-P_W0QQitemZ320155648729QQihZ011QQcategoryZ9889QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
40 quid
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sorted the prob tied it to th tdi mk3 my dads got and forced started it by towing worked and is now running with no starting issues.
many thanks
ps it will prob happen again within the next month...
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glad ur sorted, if ti hppens again chekc if is there any fuel passing your metering head? If you losen one of the fuel line bolts and prime the engine (i think they call it that) either way you should hear fuel pump prime,and fuel should come out. I had ths problem with my cab, and fuel wasnt getting past the metering head. New metering head (a mk2 k-jet one also fits - just need to remove all of the airbox top and replace with your mk1 one.)
it could be that you've got crap into your fuel system.
Hope she runs ok now :)
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aw thanks han for the info all is good though there was fuel here anyways dont know why it wasnt starting off the motor, pulling it down the road did though! :laugh:
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I know that you have sorted it, but next time you get a fault like this, check the fuel pump relay connections, and the red/yellow wire from the back of the fuse box (split into two wires).
The relay gives an intial blast of power to the pump, then when you stop cranking the engine (i.e it's running) that part of the relay closes down and it runs normally.
The connections are too small to carry the current and burn out, check them and clean them up before they burn out.
Cheers
kraM