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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Golf8vGti on 14 June 2007, 18:17
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Right got a few questions and have a fair idea of what the problem is, just want input from other people.
Bottom line is i changed the tappets due to them being pretty noisy and worn on my 8vmk2 about a month ago, and about 3 weeks i changed oil and filter using a genuine VAG filter and synta silver oil. But im still getting pretty loud tapping noise, whats annoying is its had new tappets so im now suspecting that my oil pump is possibly worn out or badly clogged up and causing low oil pressure in the top end??
Second thing my other 8v the water temperature used to sit a quarter of the way up the gauge, but this one sits just above half way all the time. Its had a new rad and im not loosing coolant so could it be something like stat or water pump?
Cheers all
J :smiley:
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I would be thinking either an oil pump problem or a blocked oil channel somewhere in the head. With regards to temperature, the golfs i have seen have all run with the temperature needle in the centre. I think your other golf was running to cold! :smiley:
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my 8v sits at 1/4 way up.
how difficult/expensive is an oil pump change?
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Id use an engine flush, then replace the oil again using an O/E filter that comes from the main dealers!!, and not an O/E one that comes from the likes of GSF, or Europarts etc.. and a new oil pump if that doesnt cure it!
Tom
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:smiley: i did a similar thing to my last 8valve and it still ticked away like a clock,but when i sold it to fellow vw nutter (g60 owner) was told never never never put any type of synthetic oil in them otherwise they will clatter forever,also no thin stuff....would try changing the oil for good quality 15/40......oil pump is about £38 and easy to fit anyway bit oil change cheaper..... :wink:
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Id use an engine flush, then replace the oil again using an O/E filter that comes from the main dealers!!, and not an O/E one that comes from the likes of GSF, or Europarts etc.. and a new oil pump if that doesnt cure it!
Tom
Filter and oil both came from main dealer mate dont go anywhere else for em. Hmmmm might try swapping to 15/40 and see if that cures it before i attack the pump. When you say good quality what we talking about like mobil 1 or something??
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don't have to go that expensive just don't put re-claimed old sh*t in it.new cars run far to thin oils these days and although dealer sells good quality it ain't no good for aour older girls!! let us know how you get on.....
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mines running on 10w40 fully synth... is that bad?
what would you recommend? its done 222k miles now you know without a rebuild :cool:
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A 10w40 Semi synth is usually reccomended.
If you want a thicker oil you want a 15w50 not a 15w40. The second part of the number relates to the thickness of the oil at 100 degC.
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Yer see im using synta silver at the mo but its still sounds like a bag of spanners being rattled about, might try 15w50 and see what happens. If not its sump off time :evil:
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sump off, oil pump and new gasket...absolute peice of piss... give everything a good wipe around and check the oil for any debris or water... if all is well, bolt the pump back on, line up the gasket and bolt the sump back on, bout 2 hrs i reckon, took me that anyways about 4 days ago :grin: and i had to run to the dealers with the pump cos i didnt know what the hell it was off :grin:
btw, im using 10-40 valvoline from morrisons garage's, its 12.99 and my engine was running full synth b4, now its not its sooooo beautiful!
have fun!
rob
p.s. dont try changing it when u got hayfeaver, everytime you sneeze you bang ur head :undecided: i have a cut to proove it :drool:
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Think my oil may be past it's prime - just had a run back to London from Swindon this morning, managed an average speed of 86mph over 96 miles in an hour and fifteen minutes (part 50mph traffic), call it a road test.
The temperature reading on the oil got up to 118 degrees, and the mpg down to 26, just checked the oil and water, and although the oil level is reasonable, may need a top up, it looks like it may have burnt?
There is a semi - not quite tar looking glaze on the (not technical) bits inside the engine when I remove the oil cap.
Is this a problem, a common occurance or easily rectified? I have no idea of the type of oil in the car, or any of the technical stats regarding its past. Owned it six-eights weeks and it runs fairly well, although in need of a service, an opportunity to sort the oil out I think, but what oil? The car has 106k and is I believe unmodified.
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If you want a thicker oil you want a 15w50 not a 15w40.
Surely, it depends when you need the oil to be thicker? A 15w40 is thicker at startup than a 10w40, a 15w50 is thicker at startup and upto tempreature.
In my experience, worn engines tend to need thicker oil at statup, no need to go thicker at operating tempreature.