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General => New forum members => Topic started by: GemsGti on 18 May 2007, 16:56
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Hey all,
Had my mk4 golf gti 1.8t for about a year now, left her pretty much as standard for a good while. Couple of months ago put 18's on, K&N Air Filter and the new forge splitter dump valve.....
Now she is in the garage not well at all after the 2 mods above on the engine have apparantly caused a bit of a mass problem so am on here in need of some advice!! I had noticed for a while that for a car thats meant to be putting out 150bhp it wasnt pulling the way it should, however, got it all serviced and seemed to be a bit better. Then put the K&N on and the dump valve....ran ok for about 2 weeks then all went to pot. Started losing power at about 3000 - 4000rpm quite badly. So concensus from all my mates was it was a faulty dump valve.
Contacted forge who sent me a replacement recirc one till they had looked at my original splitter, once fitted car seemed to be much better. So never put the splitter one back on, not wanting to tempt fate!! However, went to go out yest, turned the key and the car started then died, but started fine on second attempt so took it out and about 5 mins into driving it totally lost all power...engine running but nothing happening?? Then it started juddering and just cut out. Checked the valve nothing obvious was wrong. So gets it to garage today on the diagnostic machine and it brought up 3 faults...one being the turbo charger. Now guy thinks might be the wastegate bypass valve but if not then the full turbo itself..also he thinks the altenator might not be 100% hence it dying and the ecu was totally blocked from all the faults coming from the air filter and the dump valve! :huh: So needing advice here people, dunno what to do. This car is my baby but am afraid is about to cost me serious money to fix. Do these things sound like they match the problem??? :undecided:
Thanks!! :wink:
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Welcome to the forum, sorry to hear you are having troubles.
Not being a mk4 owner I can't say 100% but I'm pretty sure the mk4 doesn't like running with an atmospheric dump valve fitted (turbo damage etc) and if you use an oiled air filter (such as a k&n) the air mass flow meter are susceptible to damage from the oil.
I'm sure some mk4 owners will be along soon to give some more solid advise.
Unfortunately it does sound like your mods were a bit ill advised.
Hope you get it sorted
Toby
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what kind of k&n was it? oiled filters will leave your maf sensor covered in residue and cause power loss/misfires, infact these sensors die regularly.. even with a standard filter. you can get these at vw for about £75 in exchange for your old one.
i dont like this guys alternator theory.. clutching at straws methinks. what were the other 2 faults?
mine just died on me once while driving, one of the fuses on top of the battery had popped.
ive no idea what he's referring to with 'wastegate bypass'.. sounds like more spin.
what year is your car ? different years came with different problems!
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oh and the splitter valve.. ignore tobz he's old-fashioned :grin: these splitters from forge are supposed to be kosher, havent tried one myself.. cant stand the noise!
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ignore tobz he's old-fashioned
Heh heh gimme a 16yr old car anyday :)
I knew somebody who knew would be along to correct me soon!!!
I take it the oiled filter problems still stand though???
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yep.. maf sensors dont like contaminents one bit
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Thanks for that...the car is a 2000. :smiley:
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ok, basically same spec as mine then, so that rules out coilpacks.
are you still losing power at 4k rpm or is that fixed now?
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hello and welcome
sorry to hijack your thread gemsgti....toph...you mentioned there about K&N's messing up the maf, would that be still the case on my mark 3 8v or is it just forced inducted engines that they dont agree with?
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welcome to the forum hun :smiley:
Dinx :kiss:
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hey :smiley:
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try disconnecting the mass meter and see if it revs out ok also bring it for a spin and see if it drives better with it disconnected if it does air mass is gone, also at the inlet manifold under a black bracket there a boost controll vave there (grey in colour) have came across it before where it sticks causing the same probs as your car
best of luck with it
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are you slick in disguise? :grin:
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Hey all,
Yeah car is still losing power at 4000 rpm, is not drivable at all.
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are you slick in disguise? :grin:
just filling in while he`s away :smug:
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delegation amongst the moderators, like it :smiley:
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Welcome Gem.
I see topher is quick on this one! :grin:
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ok.. next idea, and one that is often overlooked. take a look at the very thin vacuum hose that goes into the top of your diverter valve, it should be braided. check very carefully along it's length (make sure to follow it right to the end) for hard/brittle areas. it can be easy to miss since its a braided, but as it gets older, the heat from driving makes it very brittle and it cracks and leaks.
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hi there.