GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: jammac on 18 May 2007, 15:33
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whos changed their cambelt and tensioner then????
Ive bought the bits for my 8v from VW and will be doing it within the next month or so. has anyone got any tips, suggestions or warnings i may need to know??? ive heard its a piece of piss but have never done it before on any car. Its not going in a garage to have it done as theyve been quoting £200+ (including parts) and id rather gain the experiance myself. :cool:
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Yep its quite easy. Things to look out for:
1) Make sure you mark up the relative position of the pulleys before you remove the belt. Use tipex to make things really obvious.
2) You may need an impact driver to remove the crank pulley(s) allen bolts.
3) Make sure you torque up the tensioner & pulley bolts properly on reassembly.
4) Tensioning the cam belt can have the effect of moving the cam timing out by one tooth. Check your marks after you tension.
5) Use rubjonny's tuning guide for checking the ignition timing afterwards.
Good luck :smiley:
Edited: crank instead of pas in 2) :rolleyes: sorry for the poor description
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Check your marks after you tension then
Re Check your marks after you tension
check check n recheck i cant emphasis enough.
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Don't put the tensioner on the wrong way round like I did yesterday! :embarassed:
lucky noticed a second or two after starting the car (whats that screeching sound???) before I completely shagged my timing belt :laugh:
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and before u fit it all back together turn the engine over by hand to make sure you don't hit valves (2 tuns of crankshaft) after doing this and all your marks line up and the tension is good you then know u can't do any damage :grin: :laugh:
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kool! thanks for the advice guys!
Ive posted loadsa questions on here recently and have done nothing to my car! had to sell my old car 1st to get the £Â£Ã‚£ sorted and am now revising for an exam in a couple of weeks. once thats out the way im gonna get stuck in! :laugh:
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turn the engine over by hand to make sure you don't hit valves
I maybe wrong about this.....
But I thought the 8v was a non interference engine, ie, the pistons can't hit the valves. That said best not to get it wrong :smiley:
A 16v is an interference design so be very careful.
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I did in a belt on a early 8v k jet. The belt stripped its teeth on the bottom pully :sad: about 5 miles from where i bought it, instead of taking it back i towed it home crying.next day my dad appered with a belt (i think it was from a diesel) we put it on and 20 min later it started first turn never had a problem the 3 months i ran it just make sure you line all the markings up correctly and there wont be a problem it can be done in under a half hour as long as there are no problems. :smiley:
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Simon is correct, in theory the 8v lumps are non-interferance, but a heavily skimmed head and/or high lift cam can make it so :grin:
Its still good practice to turn the engine over a few times before you start, not only to check for valve contact but also so you can re-check the belt tension and your timing marks :)
Also a couple of other things:
1. Dont need to remove the PAS pulley simon ;)
2. A gear puller helps to remove stuck crank pulley(s), some pulleys also have threads in, you can thread the crank pulley bolts into these to slowly force the pulley off.
3. Sometimes you need to remove the waterpump pulley, sometimes not. It seems on 90 spec cars you don't :) Waterpump pliers and a friend make short work of em tho.
4. The dizzy will spin freely with the belt loosened, this caught me out on my 1st head swap :)
5. Remember to turn the tensioner the right way, you need to twist it clockwise, otherwise the lower belt cover wont go on. (yep I've done that too :grin:)
6. An easy way to tigten the tensioner without a tool, fit an allen key into one of the holes in the tensioner and brace it against your 15mm socket.
7. I have an easy method for lining up the crank & cam marks as well as setting the correct tension:
Fit the belt & tensioner loosley, lining up the marks
Next use a spanner on the cam pulley bolt to turn the cam slowly counter clockwise, untill the belt can just be twisted 90 degrees by hand.
If the cam & crank marks dont line up, move the belt a tooth then try again
When the marks line up tighten up the tensioner and turn the engine over a few times, then recheck tension.
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Simon is correct
John, you've made my day :grin: especially after yesterdays pm discussion! :cool:
1. Dont need to remove the PAS pulley simon ;)
OK you know what I mean :smiley: what do you call it crank v-belt pulley? :tongue: :laugh:
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I assumed you meant the pulley on the pas pump itself? Id call it/them the crank pulley(s) ;)
It would be no good taking off the PAS crank pulley off and leaving the waterpump one on now would it ;)
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hey im doing my cambelt today. the haynes manual is very vague unless you are a mechanic and upto speed with all of the technical terms. and the pictures they give are crap. either that or im useless! :rolleyes:
1. how do you manually turn the engine? im not on axle stands so i cant engage a gear and turn a wheel.
ill probably be back with more questions throughout the day as i screw up!
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just turn the bolt on the crankshaft pully clockwise
do not turn engine via the cam pully :laugh:
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gave up sometime ago and went for a sunny beer up the pub! i havent got the right tools at home to do this job!! i cant get the crankshaft pulley allen key bolts undone!!! grrr
ive got a big f-off breaker bar at work! so ill try again on my next day off!!
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Hard luck mate. Fell at the first hurdle :evil:
These are the bolts I mis-described. Anyway, when you get then off give the threads a good look over and if you think they look worn replace the bolts. I once had some worn bolts come loose causing the pulley to fall of when driving :cry:
Other than getting everything lined up on refitting this is probably the most tricky bit!
If you decide to adjust your ignition timing you will probably find your distributor to be just a stuck. Get spraying round it now!
Better luck next time :smiley:
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I always turn the engine over on the cam pulley, but only after the spark plugs have been taken out. I found that if you dont the belt can jump.
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kool all points noted! im just looking up some part numbers as theres afew bits im gonna replace when i get round to this again. crankshaft pulley allen key bolts for one as i dont trust em! the heads are going round so they wont be coming off at the torque their done up2 for much longer
every time i take something apart i find another bodge job on my golf! GRRR the small upper cambelt cover (inboard of the belt) was barely held on with the rocker cover nuts as the holes the studs go through arent holes anymore! until i get a new one its all held steady with cable ties! good old cable ties! :cool:
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OK, I will check this with my pile of invoices when I get home tonight:
Semicircular cam belt cover mounting: 026 109 173 A - £3.19
the bolts I am not sure: I had some longer M8 bolts that I cut down :smiley:
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Don't you think its a little risky changing something has important as a cam belt if you have never done it before and aren't too sure . . ?
I know its a rip off at a garage, but its going to cost you a whole lot more if you get it wrong. I'm not saying I don't have faith in you, just pointing it out thats all.
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not really no. its a learning curve. how will you ever know how to do it if you dont try ay??
whats happened is no big deal. ill just have another go when ive got some better tools, spare bolts and cover.
thanks for the part number simon, ill get onto vw straight away
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Thats the fighting talk I like to hear !
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thanks for the part number simon, ill get onto vw straight away
No problem, I suspect the bolts will depend on wether your car has PAS or not. I think they are only 20p each from VW :smiley:
Don't you think its a little risky changing something has important as a cam belt if you have never done it before and aren't too sure . . ?
I know its a rip off at a garage, but its going to cost you a whole lot more if you get it wrong. I'm not saying I don't have faith in you, just pointing it out thats all.
The great thing about the mk2 8v GTI is it's a non interference engine (except see RubJ's earlier post). So even if you get it wrong you will be unlucky if you do any major damage.
The contributions and advice in this thread is better than the haynes manual, but if in doubt, ask.
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The contributions and advice in this thread is better than the haynes manual, but if in doubt, ask.
ill 2nd that! :grin:
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I've checked my old invoice. It is defo 026 109 173 A for the cover. :smiley:
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GREAT SUCCESS! :grin: (says borat)
well almost!
it was abit of a struggle as ive no experiance doing this, and the marks were 180degrees out on the intermediate shaft which had me scratching my head! called a mate who knew abit more about it than me and soon sorted it! so next time it should go like a dream! how long have i got? 60,000miles till the next one? will the car last that long?? haha
however now ive a new problem in the fact my timing is correct but the car idles like crazy, hunting until eventually conking out! from reading other posts this could be an air leak but ive pretty much checked everything and its all pretty sound. i need to get the car tuned ignition timing and CO/idle. but that wouldnt cause the erratic idleing would it?
i keep hearing abou the blue temp sensor? i have no idea what this is!! could that need changing?
any comments id be greatful for!
:smiley:
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i need to get the car tuned ignition timing and CO/idle. but that wouldnt cause the erratic idleing would it?
Yes probably, get it tuned up first. If you are not doing the timing etc yourself, print out RubJ's digifant tuning (in the mk2 info section) guide and take it to the chap who is doing it. There are a few things perculiar to the digifant that need to be done when setting it up.
The blue sender is the next thing to look at, but get a VW one. It's on the front of your engine about 12+ inches above your oil temp sender. Its next to a near identical black one. Bottom right of this pic :smiley:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u242/SGB67/ATF.jpg)
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idle switch is worth checking out, and make sure the throttle cable isn't too tight!
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ok kool cheers guys. im gonna have a go at RJs how to tune a digifant myself 1st though! ive got my eye on afew timing strobes and CO meter on ebay as we speak. aslong as i can get to and from work as it is im happy to do it myself and learn the car.
so its called the blue temp sender coz its blue huh! :embarassed: <<sillbilly
do you know the part numbers of the idle switch and the BTS jonny?
thanks again :smiley:
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037 133 093 - throttle switches - 38.41+VAT
Luckily they don't normally go wrong, just get knocked out of alignment.
blue sender is in the etka part number thread, but I'm feeling generous:
025 906 041 A - 12.21+VAT
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ive just done the idle/CO part of the tuning guide without the CO meter and its pretty much emliminated the hunting prob!!! so with a CO meter hopefully it will totally dissapear. also took the car for a spin and WOW its 10X more responsive on the throttle! WOOO HOOOO! :grin:
cheers guys!