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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: T_J_G on 18 April 2007, 13:50
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Can this be done with normal tools at home?
Had new suspension struts on the front for the MOT but the wheel is offset when going straight....
Tim
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take it back and get them to check the tracking if they didnt when fitting the new struts (they should have!!)
If the tracking is ok, and theres an equal number of turns lock to lock, just recentre the wheel :)
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take it back and get them to check the tracking if they didnt when fitting the new struts (they should have!!)
If the tracking is ok, and theres an equal number of turns lock to lock, just recentre the wheel :)
I didn't get it done at a garage my g/f's grandad did it for me as a huge favour!
Do you meant lock---> centre then centre to lock the other way?
Tim
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yep, might just need to check the angle of the hubs on both front struts, what I do is set both sides to max camber then work from there.
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Sorry to hijack your thread, but I have a relevant query.
Rubjonny, I've bought the .5mm narrower shank bolts, Part No 903-334-01, so I can adjust
the camber from the bottom of the strut.
When you say "set camber to max", do I apply this by pulling the top of the wheel out,
and push bottom of the wheel inward.
Thanks in advance.
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you only need those camber bolts if your suspension has been bent in some way so that it does not allow you to set the camber to spec using the std bolts, or you want to set even more camber than is possible with the std setup.
There should be enough adjustment in the std setup to set it to a good -ve camber :)
To set -ve camber you pull the bottom of the hub out and push the top in, to set +ve camber you pull the top out and push the bottom in. -ve camber is what you want, I set both sides to max with the std setup and it handles great but with even tire wear :)
If you set it to max with the narrow bolts you'll get quite a bit more and I'd expect you would start to see uneven wear.
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your saying having the -ve camber makes the car handle better? my golf that ive not long had, has redently had top suspension mounts and front bearings replaced. the -ve camber was very obvious to the eye and i thought it hadnt been setup after the said work had been done (im not a mechanic so i thought prehaps it needed setting up, and wasnt a fashion statement). everytime i went over a bump in the road the car seemed to bounce sideways.
went and got the wheel camber set to manufacture spec and the car now handles like a dream. it jumps forwards through bumps in the road now instead of an unnerveing sideways!
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Yes I am, the book spec is -35' +- 20' ;)
-ve camber is where the top of the wheel sticks in further than the bottom of the wheel :)
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seems very queer. maybe there is more to this situation than meets the eye coz its definatly driving better now than what it was. would it be common practice for the garage who did the wheel bearings and suspension to set the camber correctly? i assumed they didnt have the correct equipment as theres only a couple who have such gear out here in the sticks.
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maybe the camber was set more negative than -35? would that be possible?
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I set both sides to max with the std setup and it handles great but with even tire wear :)
Would you recommend this for me aka "mr standard" :tongue:
I'm going to get my ass in gear the start of june to drop all 4 struts, after we spoke about it, and get that beam and the bushes done to.. saying that, yous got PM :wink:
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Could be, or perhaps they were set uneven on both sides? Other issue is if your tires are already quite unevenly worn, changing the camber would make the tire sit differently and affect the tread patch in contact with the road.
My mates car pulled all over the shop and loved tramlining, I set the camber to max and dropped it on coilovers which helped a bit, but he still wasn't happy with it. As soon as he put new tires on up front all was fixed!
Matt: If you're happy with it atm I'd leave it alone, I'd only recommend doing this if you swap your front suspension about, saves you worrying about the front struts being set uneven as both will be at the max. Of course if your geometry is bent in some way this will be a problem, in this case you would want to get it set by a garage.
I've had the camber set to max -ve ever since I fitted the lowering kit in June, and it handles superbly :)
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well with myy wheel sat in centre its a different amount of turns to each lock. Looks like i'll have to get the tracking done on Thursday!
Tim
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To set -ve camber you pull the bottom of the hub out and push the top in, to set +ve camber you pull the top out and push the bottom in. -ve camber is what you want, I set both sides to max with the std setup and it handles great but with even tire wear :)
If you set it to max with the narrow bolts you'll get quite a bit more and I'd expect you would start to see uneven wear.
Thanks for making it clear, +ve is what I need then, because my past two sets of tyres were worn on the inside.
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or LESS -ve camber ;)
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Matt: If you're happy with it atm I'd leave it alone, I'd only recommend doing this if you swap your front suspension about, saves you worrying about the front struts being set uneven as both will be at the max. Of course if your geometry is bent in some way this will be a problem, in this case you would want to get it set by a garage.
Well once the new shocks come I'll look into this, altohugh there is a palce locally that does 4 wheel laser alignment, cameber, etc.. highl recommended, £47 all in, the thing there then would they set it to the book, or would they set it to something where its going to handle rightly? Obviously for me, and the same for anyone I guess, it's gonna be the best balance between wear and handling..
Saying that I sholud check how they are wearing at the front since the hubs and bearings jobber :smiley:
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-1.5 degrees is a good setting, recommended by most to give good handling and even wear :)