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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: richandhazel on 15 December 2006, 19:03
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This is actually a problem with the Polo but as it utilises the same injection system as the mk2 digifant it makes sense to post this question here.
Its done it twice now, where you start the car fine when cold, drive a mile down the road, stop and then 5 minutes later go to start it and it seems to flood itself. Today, I popped down and filled it up with petrol, went out to restart it, fired then died. Turns over fine but will not fire. leave it 10 minutes, starts fine.
I've got a blue temp sensor coming tomorrow, my theory being that somewhere between cold and 'up to temp' there is a dead spot in the sensor that is causing the overfuelling.
Any other ideas or do you reckon it will fix it.
Incidently, I have just changed the plugs.........made no difference. It has also been steadily getting lumpier and lumpier on start up from cold, again, smells like overfuelling.
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Was just going to say try a blue temperature sender :) report back if no joy :) might also be fuel pump relay and or ecu relay :)
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Remove all the battery/starter/alternator +ve & -ve wires & clean em up wi sandpaper till they're proper shiny. I had a dodgy earth on mine which would cause the car to not start.
I also had a dodgy blue temp sender which gave me odd starting symptoms, it would NEVER start on 1st try of the key, no matter how long you held it on the starter. Then it would fire up straight away on the seconmd try, odd!
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Update:-
I have replaced the blue temp sender...........no fix.
I have tried disconnecting the lambda sensor.............no difference.
I have tried leaving the battery disconnected overnight............no difference.
Basically the car starts on the button and idles fine. As soon as you press the accelerator it overfuels and stalls. If you're quick enough in letting go of the accelerator so that it drops back to idle it'll recover and idle fine.
After about 2 minutes the car will run fine unless you stop and then go for a restart in which case it'll be flooded.
I have now borrowed one of these.........
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html)
........and have found the 2 connectors on the Polo so am going to attempt coupling it up to VAGCOM to see if that can shed any light. Anyone used VAGCOM with a digifant?
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Ok, given this a go this evening and it looks like all that works with this set up is the flashing led's. Anyone know how to interpret what the various flashes mean?
It looks like it is trying to tell me loads but I don't know what the various red and green led flashes correspond to.
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Ok.........in my previous surfing and due to vehicles I've had in the past, I remembered that I came across this:-
http://20v.org/fault.htm (http://20v.org/fault.htm)
What do you reckon the chances are that they might actually be the same?
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Think I may be getting close now:-
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-50225.html (http://www.clubgti.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-50225.html)
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Well I have tried it again a number of times and the results are consistent:-
4 short flashes
11 long flashes
4 short flashes
I know the last 4 short flashes means end of test but can't make head nor tail of the rest of them.
I'm hoping, at the very least, that I have cleared and or reset something so I'll take it for a drive shortly.
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I've got fault codes if you want them :wink:
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(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/golfvr/polo/polocodes2.jpg)
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Cheers Corin. Those print codes are interesting, wonder what they mean.
The normal fault codes look very familiar.
I'll be around as soon as I have had some (late) lunch. Got a little tied up on that Ford Fiesta.
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Cheers for the fault read on the Audi, seems like everything is wrong :laugh:
Any luck accessing the polo ecu?
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Well I have just tried the same Vagcom setup to read Corin's Audi codes and with that you could get into the engine module and actually read and clear the fault codes. The Audi is slightly newer, but it does use the same 2 connectors so I suspect that the LED test that I'm doing is simply that, an LED test and not the fault codes. So, it doesn't look like vagcom is able to access my ECU even though it successfully connects. I will give it another go today.
Corin, I have cleared those codes now. Many of them may have been latched on if you switched the ignition on whilst things were disconnected etc. Best thing to do now is take the vehicle for a drive, over to me for example, and we'll connect it back up and see if any of the codes come back. Any that do will be hard faults that still exist.