GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: robster23 on 14 December 2006, 15:39
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Right - took my recently bought toy to my trusted mechanic and he had a good look round it and said:
Today you'll need:
A full service
A cambelt
Start saving because you also need:
Brake pads and discs all round
Shocks and springs all round - it's why you are having trouble keeping it in a straight line
A new exhaust system
All tracked and checked
But the bodywork is in good condition.
Alas, gti ownership is going to be a monthly outgoing lol. Anyone know where I can get decent parts cheap? :wink:
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Euro car parts or gsf.
i'd also say you need a second opinion.
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They allways say cambelt full service at this age. Check when the cambelt was last done .
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Cambelt isn't a biggie really, I got mine done at a main dealer - can't remember how much but it was way cheaper than some so- called specialists....
Exhaust - £140 for a cheap as chips one from a local independent fast fit place... They did the geometry after I had some new topmounts too, cost me £50 for it but it handles properly now...
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i'd also say you need a second opinion.
same here....
the other thing u gotta think about it virtually all of that can be done yourself.... so its mainly the cost of parts that u have to worry about.
also, find out which bit of the exhaust u need changing, id be suprised if u need a whole new system, could just be a center section or back box, which again, providing your handy with a spanner can be done yourself...
as for new springs and shocks, id say get the tracking done first, (always check the cheapest thing to fix :laugh: ) then if that cures your straight line problems, id say gettin new springs and shocks would be a waste, unless u want to lower it of course!
www.europerformance.co.uk can sometimes supply OEM fit parts for cheap, got a set of EBC standard brake pads for a punto GT for £27 off there just the other day! 8)
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Thanks guys,
I got the tracking done the other day for 25 squids which helped round corners but it jumps all over the place when going over a bump in a straight line. Cambelt is due in about 10k miles but he took the cover off for me to look - it's as toothless as my granny!
Was thinking about doing the brakes myself as I will soon have access to some level, flat, tarmac to do it on! Any recommendations on make? I've heard ATE is ok as a budget option....
As far as the exhaust, think its the middle box, but if i've got to play with it, I fancy something shiny at the back.
Does the haynes manual cover brake disc changing properly (prob figure out the pads for myself lol)
Oh and I forgot - "difficult to put into gear" gearbox - sounds like a new clutch too at some point......
Anyone know a good mech near Tunbridge Wells?
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mmmm, weird one about the suspension, im pretty new to dubs, so cant really help you.
as for brakes, depends wat your budget it... ive usually gone for tar-ox in the past, but recently got some mintex group N discs and they are outstanding.
exhaust wise... venom do cat back stainless systems for about £250!
'difficult to put into gear' that might not be the clutch, does the MK3 run off a clutch cable? if so and if its harder to get into the lower gears than the higher ones, then the cable could be loose.
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Hmmm it is toughest to get into 1st. I'm not sure if its cable or hydralic though - worth researching - thanks mate!
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If your rear discs do actually need changing then I believe its a fairly big job as the bearings have to be done at the same time! Only what I've heard, sure someone here can confirm that!
keep a watch on ebay or here as good SS exhausts can be got quite cheaply (cheers monkeyalan) and you can get em for around the same as what you would pay for a new mild steel system.
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for the brakes just buy the brembo ones from gsf, they are oem ones and do a good job( and not too expensive!), not worth going for cheapie brakes tbh,,,,, they're probs the most important part of the car!!!
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Yikes - discs and bearings together? That sounds painful. I hope that isn't the case.
Thanks for the Brembo heads up - will look at gsf tonight.
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yeah when i got my rear discs fitted, had to get bearings done as well otherwise i would have done them myself. front discs are much more simpler, just the one nut if i remember correctly.
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take a real good look at the rear discs and if there is only some small score marks they no reall need to change them. just change the pads if they are well worn. But if you got big visible ridges they you will have to change the discs!
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Rear brakes arn't hard, you just need to tap in the bearing race & fit to the car, no special tools needed, apart from a suitably sized drift. Easiest way is to tap the bearing race out of your old disc, and use that to tap in the new one :)
Buy yourself a haynes, all those jobs are easy DIY, apart from the tracking of course. Zaust system can be a bit of a nightmare, but with someone to help you should be ok. Get a jack & axle stands or some ramps :)
Best place for service items I've found is AVS:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk
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Thanks Jonny, i'm trying to get a haynes manual on ebay at the mo - not too uncomfortable with a spanner so I hope to give it a go but the timing belt i've left to a pro lol. :cool:
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with the rear disc u have to take the rear wheel bearing out f the rear and fit them into you new ones it not to bad but sums there really hard to get out. u just need a hammer and a punch. then u need to wind the rear caliper back so u can fit new pads in. front disc and pads piece of piss. remove the caliper using a 6mm our 7mm allen key on the sliders and remove the brake hub were the pads sit and remove ya disc make sure to clean the surface were the disc sits or u will get brake judder.
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Thanks Opel, Haynes manual should be arriving today or tomorrow so I shall look it up!
Rob
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Rear discs do indeed house the rear wheel bearings, not a big job, just a bit tricky if you haven't done it before.